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PLEASE HELP TBolt Ignition

J

jsyet

New member
Sorry but i am simply a novice

Sorry but i am simply a novice back yarder that got asked to look at a buddies boat that wont start. First of all no spark. I tested the coil with a meter and it was bad. I replaced the coil and still no spark. I am down to the T-Bolt ignition module and the other module under the rotor...Any advice would be appreciated. Can you test either? The motor is a 350 gm that replaced a v6 in a gonzi classic 16.
 
"advice #1. when working on un

"advice #1. when working on unfamiliar systems, it's a good idea to have a service manual before you start changing out (expensive) parts.
advice #2. yes, there is a simple test procedure to test t-bolt ignition.(it's in the service manual) I will post it tommorrow if someone doesn't sort you out before then."
 
Make sure the ground to the TB

Make sure the ground to the TB IV module is actually grounded. Remove the rotor; you may have to break it with a chisel since it may be locktited onto the shaft. Look at the optic sensor or pickup for heavy rust; replace it if the test is doubtful.
 
"Tests for Thunderbolt Ignitio

"Tests for Thunderbolt Ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!!

#1 - Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts.

#2 - If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist.

#3 - If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp.

#4 - In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced."
 
First of all I would like to s

First of all I would like to say God Bless both of you for taking your time and knowledge to help with my poblem. It's good to see that the world still has people that are willing to share their knowledge without the expectation of monitary values! I only wish that in some way I could offer mine to you!It was a combination of both the ignition sensor and the rotor itself! Somehow...Someone tried to bend the rotor tabs for some UNKNOWN reason and they actually busted the mount of the sensor and also wore a groove in two of the rotor tabs! Funny how NOBODY knows how this may have happened...LOL! Anyways parts cannot be had until Monday or Tuesday! I only hope that the module itself is not ruined also for this is the most expensive part of the job..Maybe my buddy will not allow the SOMEONE or NOBODY to look at his personal belongings again.Once again God Bless and have a safe new year and happy boating! Just a small reminder: BE AWARE OF THE GHOST BOAT MECHANIC (OR GREMLINS) THAT MYSTERIOUSLY SAVATAGE IGNITION OF BOAT ENGINES....IT MAY CAUSE YOU GREIF OR WORSE YET....LOTS OF MONEY!..LOL
 
Glad to help. I hate when tho

Glad to help. I hate when those electrical gremlins use the rotor for a diving board. The module is probably OK; they cost about $400-$500.
 
"glad you got it sorted out. s

"glad you got it sorted out. someone probably tried to pry the rotor off, and gave up. your buddy owes you a couple of fishing trips."
 
Sorry guys but do either of yo

Sorry guys but do either of you have a wiring diagram or know what wires from the harness and TBolt module go to the + and - on the coil...Something doesn't look right to me and i dont want to ruin the new sensor! Gray and purple nad brownw\blue stripe from harness and gray and purple from TBolt module...Please inform I dont know if the GREMLIN changed them or not! Thanks in advance.
 
per SELOC Manual

from the m

per SELOC Manual

from the module
white w/red stripe to left post on dist. side
white w/green stripe to right post on dist. side
this wire continues to the terminal block at the shift cutout switch then to the switch
gray = coil negative side
purple = coil positive side
black = ground

from the engine harness
gray = coil negative side
purple = coil positive side
brown w/blue stripe = not shown; may be a substitute wire
 
"Thank you again.I replaced th

"Thank you again.I replaced the rotor and the sensor today and still no spark...I wanted to make sure the wires at the coil were correct.Brand new coil sensor and rotor....with key on i have 12 volts at coil +, coil -, coil wire, and at white w/red to sensor...NO SPARK! I guess it's the Module??? Do you have any other suggestions?...Thanks Guy!!!!"
 
Is there a tach. in the system

Is there a tach. in the system? Disconnect the gray tach. lead from the coil--the lead from the engine main harness going to the dash. Run the amplifier test again and check for spark.
 
Once you get the spark back; c

Once you get the spark back; check the engine timing since you replaced the optic sensor. Timing will be off a few degrees.
 
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