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halljj2

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"I have a 1984 Bayliner Penta

"I have a 1984 Bayliner Penta AQ271D. Several parts have been replaced throughout the engine. Compression is good and the firing order is correct and sufficiant. I just bought this boat and I am trying to get it into running shape so that I can take my two boys out on it this weekend. My problem is knid of like others that have been discussed but I havnt found one identical to it. The boat cranks up and runs excellent until about 20 minutes into a run. The engine then stalls out and I must wait 15 to 20 minutes to try and re-start it. I thought the problem might have been in the coil. The boat has been changed to electronic ignition. I put a 40,000 volt Accell coil on it and it ran fine but stalled out after 10 minutes. The fuel filter appears to be okay. The battery is brand new and the fuel pump appears to be new. This problem seems to occur when the engine gets hhot however the engine temp stays conistantly at 180 degrees. The spark plugs are new and the rotor button was just replaced. I am not really sure where to go from here. I was considering to begin looking at the carburater. The carburater seems to be cleaned and I have a mechanic assisting me. He is also clueless. What should I do? Where should I go with this next? Please give me some suggestions so that my boys can enjoy this boat over the weekend. Thanks everyone. Jeff"
 
"If I was in your situation, I

"If I was in your situation, I would try a couple of things when the engine stalls: 1) I believe your engine does have a Holley carb (4 barrel) like mine: remove one of the level plugs located at the side of each bowl and check with a flashlight if you can see fuel inside the bowl. If you don't see fuel, hook up a jerrycan with fresh gas to the suction side of the fuel pump and crank a few times the engine. If you see the bowl filling with fuel, then you probably have a restriction in the suction line betweent he fuel pump and the fuel tank (stuck anti-syphon valve) or a plugged fuel tank vent. If you still don't see fuel, then you may need to adjust the carb floats. And if you saw fuel the first time you opened the level plug, then 2)replace the plug into he carb bowl and afterwards hotwire the (+) of the coil from the (+) of the battery; if the engine starts, you know you have a wiring problem (loose wire, defective igntion switch, etc). Just remember to remove the jumper after the test, or you won't be able to stop the engine by turning the key off."
 
"I am not sure if my first res

"I am not sure if my first response was posted El Pescador but thank you so much for replying to quickly to my question. The Carb that is on my boat in actually a one barrel and I have been considering rebuilding it. Would the method that you suggested work in this case since it is a 1 barrell and not a 4 barrell? Also, would you happen to know what brand my carb is? Is it also a Holley? Thanks again. Your help is greatly appreciated."
 
"Jeffrey,

El's recomme

"Jeffrey,

El's recommendations will work for the AQ125A as well. By hooking a jerry jug up to the engine you are bypassing the fuel tank and eliminating an anti-syphon / vent problem. If the engine runs fine in this configuration then you know the problem lies somewhere in the fuel delivery system.

You may have a stuck float, which is not permitting sufficient fuel to refill the bowl during cruising speed. Take a ball peen hammer and gentle tap the sides of the carb. This may free up the float.

Hot wiring the (+) side of the coil will tell you if it is an electrical problem.

If the jerry jug and hot wiring do not resolve your problem, then I would pull the top of your carb. and inspect the float. Unlike the 4 barrel Holley's your carb does not have a plug you can remove to view inside. You will have to remove the top of the carb to inspect it. Do this as carefully as possible to reuse your gasket.

You will want to inspect part #3 in the following schematic:

http://www.volvopentastore.com/CARBURETOR_841533/dm/cart_id.327823918--category_ id.333010--list_time.1212592182--session_id.874319222--store_id.366--view_id.325 851

Ensure that the float moves up and down freely and that varnish is not impinging it. You can do this with the carb on the boat, just be careful not to drop and screws / bolts. Let us know how you make out. Good luck."
 
"Thanks for the advice El and

"Thanks for the advice El and Mike. Would removing the gas cap check the problem as well. I removed the gas cap and the boat seem to have run for about 20 minutes or so longer than it had previously. I thought I may ran it out of gas but I found out minutes later that it did have fuel. I started the engine again and it stalled within a minute or so. Do you have anymore suggestions or should do exactly what the both of you have said and use a jerry jug to bypass the anti-syhon? Also, I am considering rebuilding the carb. I went to marine west and they gave me the part number and the car number. Can advance auto or autozone cross reference these kits to a cheaper brand or do you have any suggestions on where to buy one at a better price? Marine West quoted 63.00. Thanks guys. I appreciate your help and I am sure with your assistance this boat will be running like a champ by the weekend."
 
"Jeffrey,

You may have a ve

"Jeffrey,

You may have a venting problem if removing the gas cap allows for a longer run time. Hook up the jerry can and see what happens. You may not need to get into a carb rebuild.

I am not familiar with the carb on your engine, El will know better whether an automotive kit is available. I tend to stick with marine rebuild kits when I mess with carbs on boats though."
 
"Thanks Mike for the info. My

"Thanks Mike for the info. My mechanic came over and hooked up the jerrycan. The motor ran great but stalled again. We hooked up his jump box along with his jerry can and the boat DIDN'T stall. So from this info it seems that there are multiple problems, one with the fuel or fuel lines and somewhere in the ignition. The carb was doing its job when it was hooked up to the jerry can so there is nothing wrong with the carb. We just put on a 40,000 volt coil and a water/fuel seperater and that didnt seem to help it. Myself and the mechanic are stuck in a rut and can not figure out what is going on. If you guys have anymore suggestions please keep them coming because we are using everyone that you give. Thanks again."
 
"What model of electronic igni

"What model of electronic ignition do you have changed to? If you mounted Pertronix II make sure you have a full 12 V at the coil and at the electronic ignition module, since operating at low voltage can make the module trip off at any time ranging from few minutes to two hours (this rule is written in the Pertronix II operation manual).
I hope it may be of some help.
Stefano."
 
"By 'jump box' I assum

"By 'jump box' I assume you mean a portable 12V power supply?

Try isolating your troubleshooting one step at a time. Does the engine run properly when supplied by the jerry can?

Next, as El stated, run a jumper from the positive post of your battery to the (+) terminal on your coil. Does this make the engine run normal?

Rule out fuel, then spark. As Stefano mentioned, you may not have a full 12 V going to the coil. Use a multimeter and read the voltage at low RPM (650-800).

Are you able to restart the boat immediately after it stalls now? Your first post stated you have to wait 15-20 mins.?"
 
"Thanks again guys. Last night

"Thanks again guys. Last night my mechanic began to do a voltage test on the wiring harness that goes to the coil and the resistor. He found that the wire that went to the jumper at the ignition was only reading 10 volts and not twelve. When he tested the wire at the ignition it read 4 to 8 volts. We ran a a new wire and bypassed the old one. This may have solved our issue. Since it was late last night I decided to wait and run the boat this morning. In response to Mike. Mike, the boat still stalled out when the jerry can of new fuel was hooked up. The only time the boat ran without stalling was when the jerry can was hooked up and my mechanics direct ignition jumper box. If your familiar with it, you hook it up to the battery and the coil so it bypasses everything else inline with the ignition and you are able to start the boat by a little box. As far as the waiting period goes, unless the jumper box is hooked up along with the jerry can, I have to wait to restart the boat to get it to run a length of time. I can start it but it will stall almost immediately. Stefano, I am not sure what kind of ignition is installed in the boat. However the coil is brand new but I can still check to see if there are 12 volts at the module. Where is the module located? I am going to go out and run the boat to see if it stalls or not in just a few minutes. Thanks again guys and I will post the results of this next test run."
 
"You're welcome Jeffrey. I

"You're welcome Jeffrey. It sounds like you have an ignition problem. I would trace the wiring from the 'ON" position of your key switch to the (+) of the coil. If there are any splices in-line, or if the wiring is suspect, I would replace with new. You want a minimum of 11.7V at the coil. Your best bet may be to run new wiring to and from your switch."
 
"Thanks for the reply Mike. I

"Thanks for the reply Mike. I went out this morning and started the boat and let it run. Still the same results. I am going to re-wire the power wire that is running from the ignition switch to the resistor. There was a voltage drop of 1 volt from the switch to the resistor. Is there also a wire that runs from the resistor to the coil as you mentioned in your post, since I have a resistor? I agree with you. I believe it is ignition related. If I have to replace the switch, do you have any info that you can give me so that I can locate the right switch at Advance? Thanks again Mike and everyone else involved. Please, again, keep the advice coming. I am not very experienced in marine engines so this a learning process. Thanks again."
 
"Jeffrey,
the electronic ign

"Jeffrey,
the electronic ignition module is located inside the distributor and usually is linked to the positive post of the coil (12V). If you have a Pertronix coil installed (Flame tower) you don't need any resistor and you can feed the module directly from the positive post of the coil. Otherwise you need to bypass the resistor in order to have a full 12V at the module.
If you read 4 to 8 volts it is very likely that the module trips off, althoug the coil may be still able to produce a spark. Try to have a full 12V at the module and you will solve your problems.
Stefano."
 
If you dont have a flame tower

If you dont have a flame tower does that mean you have to have a resistor? I am not sure if I have a flame tower. What would I look for? My mechanic told me that this boat did not have an ignition module. I am not to sure about that statement though. Thanks.
 
"Is it possible that the resis

"Is it possible that the resist is burned out? According to the specs, the resistor should be atleast a 4 ohm resistor but the one that is on the boat is only a 1 ohm resistor. If this is the case could this be causing the ignition to shut down and requiring time to cool it back down so that the boat can run again? If so, this is a cheap fix and could easily solve the problem. To support this idea, when the ignition jumper is hooked up, we are bypassing the resistor and that would explain why the boat continues to run but when my ignition is running, it is using the resistor and that could be the reason it is shutting down."
 
"Jeffrey,
first of all you ha

"Jeffrey,
first of all you have to determine which type of ignition you have: breaker point or electronic, otherwise we cannot go much further.
The ballast resistor should have a resistance among 1.3 – 1.4 ohms, so yours is fine.
In my opinion you have the electronic ignition module which is not connected upstream the resistor and so doesn’t get a full 12V. If you connect it downstream the resistor (for example at the coil positive post) you won’t get a full 12V and this may cause the module to trip off.
Stefano"
 
"Just to update everyone. I re

"Just to update everyone. I replaced the ignition switch and I still got the same result. The engine stalled. I am curious though. I have noticed that several people have switched over to the electronic ignition. I have also noticed that the people who have had success with the conversion were people who had the 350. I have noticed those people who have the 4 cylinder switched back to the points ignition because they experienced rough idles or stalling of the engine. Is there a possiblity that there is a compatibility issue with the electronic ignitions and the four cylinders? If not, I have tried everything that everyone is suggesting to try and nothing is giving me a different result. Is there anything else that someone can suggest to help me get this boat running?"
 
"Jeffrey , I switched my 4 cyl

"Jeffrey , I switched my 4 cylinder to electronic and would never think of changing back to points."
 
"Jeffrey, where from did you g

"Jeffrey, where from did you get the idea that people with 4 cylinder engines did switch back to points because of rough idles or stalling? That's news to me, because what I have seen and heard is just the opposite.

By the way, you should not have a resistor installed when you have a 3 ohm coil and a Pertronix electronic ignition module. With that arrangement, you need to have 12V between the (+) of the coil and ground."
 
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