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Please help me donbt no where to start

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brian_d

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"I just bought this boat and m

"I just bought this boat and motor but don't no what motor I have for sure the mod# XJ88TSLEDR the case just has 90hp on it the guy said it was an ocean pro from evinrude is this true. Also was courious if it has a charging system on it. Noticed it does not like to idle at all you have to keep the motor at atleast 1,000 rpm to keep it running and it is also hard to start even when the motor is warm and smokes quite a bit it will burn your eyes if you get to close I noticed a thing above the breather that has a red dial on it if I adjust that will it lean it out or do I need to order a part thanks for reading this and want information is greatly appreciated"
 
That " thing " is the

That " thing " is the injection primer and has to do with starting the motor.The red lever should point to the back of the primer.
 
it has a wire correct. Is it c

it has a wire correct. Is it connected to the key because I noticed when I push in on the key it clicks also does it have a role in fuel delivery when engine is running.
 
"That engine is a 1996 88hp mo

"That engine is a 1996 88hp model. Are you sure it is an Evinrude? I would think that the "J" in the model number of XJ88TSLEDR would indicate that it might be a Johnson.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

Starting procedure: Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard, apply a light bit of throttle, turn the key to the start position and push the key in at the same time to activate the primer solenoid. When the engine fires/starts, release the key to have it return to the run position."
 
also how do I check to see if

also how do I check to see if the battery is charging. Sometimes when the motor is hard to start the battery gets drained bad also how long is to long for the power wires from starter to battery
 
"If you have a tachometer and

"If you have a tachometer and it functions as it should, the charging system is operating.

A twenty second engagement of the electric starter is a deadline point. After having the starter cranking for 20 seconds, let it cool down soewhat to avoid having the armature get hot enough to melt the lead at the commutator area where the brushes seat.

Evinrude/Johnson..... Isn't there a designation one way or the other on the hood?"
 
"no I can't find nothing o

"no I can't find nothing on it. I regards to the tax it works great at idle but when u are running it will get up to about 3,500 and the needle will drop to 0 it kindof jumps back and forth I just bought it and set it on 6poles that's what the directions said because it should have a 12pole alt on it"
 
"Number six (6) on the

"Number six (6) on the dial is correct.

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

When time permits, visit my store at: http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
also what color wire would fee

also what color wire would feed off the motor that goes to the battery to charge the battery
 
"bad rectifier.replace it..you

"bad rectifier.replace it..your charging sys,consists of yellow,yellow gray,and red on rect.........."
 
The easiest way to test if reg

The easiest way to test if regulator or tach is faulty is to hook a multimeter (on Hz scale) to the gray wire. Start the engine and note the readings. The value should increase with revs. If not -regulator is gone. If readings increase but tach drops out - tach is gone.
 
I'm going to look at a boa

I'm going to look at a boat the man say's it has a 90 hp johnson ocean pro on it he does not know if it is carb or injection (son is in college it's his boat) any information on this year motor 2001 would be great. thank-you
 
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