Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Picking up a 1987 Evinrude 70HP VRO. About to get started...

T

Tim&Bleu

Member
Forum,

I'm new to this site because I just picked up a 1987 Evinrude 70HP VRO. Going through the forum, I've seen some great info on OMC MOTORS. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row. I'm picking up the engine this morning. I live on the Connecticut River in Es***, CT. I'm restoring my brother's 1983 15 foot Boston Whaler Super Sport, which had a 1983 Johnson 50HP (NON-VRO). I bought this engine, the 1987 70HP, complete with all wires and controls, power tilt and trim and a box of extra parts. The engine is very clean. I'm going to verify the compression test, but from a trusted person, compression is 120 at all 3 cylinders, and he believes the test was dry, and cold sitting on a bench.

The previous owner was in the process of hooking the VRO back up. That's where I'm at. I ordered some Gunk chemical cleaner dip, I'm going to make my own piston stop tool. I ordered a new compression gage, because I wanted a new one. Ordered new champion plugs the engine calls for, timing light, etc. I downloaded the shop manual for 1987 OMC 60-75. TIMGUY, if you are out there, I tried sending you a message. I keep seeing your name on these post with great information, hopefully you'll chime in. I don't have any specific information yet, but know I will.

Thanks in advance,

- Tim
 
When i joined, I spent a lot of time reading every post I could find about my johnson 1990 90 hp. And any years or hp close to that. You can really pick up a lot of good info doing that. You can look at the bottom of this page to see several links to 1987 70 hp posts. Start there and just keep expanding. Hell, I ;learned so much that occasionally i can even answer questions on here now. Best of luck with your new motor.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'll look for the tell tale. I think it's coming from the top but not sure I'm going to pick it up right now and will be posting like of questions and pics. Good thing is I'm fairly capable mechanically, but I feel this forum is a great resource that I found a couple days ago and have been reading incessantly. Let's Go!
 
Does that mean the telltale was moved to the top from the side, or does the telltale come out of the top of the block on that year engine. I'm confused.
 
When it left the factory it came off the side of the block.-----There was a service bulletin that came out in 1994 to move it to the top of the block.----It is interesting that there still are some that have not been done.-----Hopefully you did a compression test before you hand over the coins.-----A compression test is the first step in trouble shooting / maintenance.----Install a new water pump impeller if you do not know how old it is.
 
Lower unit is completely rebuilt, zero hours. Compression outside in a cold shed, 120 on all three cylinders. Telltale out the top of the block left side above the carbs...looks to be in really nice shape. When I shrink my pics, I'll add. I'm not going to start the tuneup until I get it out to Block Island where my tools are and where it will live.
 
Welcome, Tim. My knowledge is less than my mentors here, but perhaps I am not too bad with words....getting the information down into print and screenshots/photos. Nice boat, the Whalers are a quality product. Did you get the VRO oil reservoir with the motor? The caps are often the problem as you may already know. They often have "breathing problems", then the VRO unit itself is put to blame. Ethanol fuel is also poison to the VRO's....later versions have modified ratios as well as ethanol "resistant" components.
 
Hi Timguy,

Thanks for the reply. I have the original oil pump with tank and all the components and it has been disconnected. It's in great shape as it's all clean and looks brand new. Lower unit is all new and filled with oil. Compression is 120 in all 3 cylinders. And we did the test standing, but at 26 degrees fahrenheit and the cylinders were dry, so that should get better I think. It's been always winterized and stored inside. I also have parts to rebuild the carbs and replace all the gaskets, which I may do when I do the tune up and timing according to the manual. Think that's a good start?
 
No such thing as a conventional " tune up " on motors anymore.-----Electronic ignition with timing that does not go out of adjustment.----Fixed jet carburetors as well.----No valves to adjust either.
 
Racerone and everyone else,

Shouldn't I still do the tune up that the OMC manual recommends. Get an accurate compression test, Clean carbs, Piston stop tool, adjust TDC, check timing and adjust as necessary, use the new parts I got with the engine like carb rebuild kit, head gasket, etc., Adjust the throttle and shifter linkage. Aren't these all things to do? I figure I'll have the time in between coats of poly urethane on the teak.

Also, does anyone have the secret to making the teaK look really nice? Maybe a little darker than natural?

Thanks for the input,

- TC
 
Your plan is good. You of course can darken teak with stain first. Did inside of our log home with semi-gloss....looks better in my eyes than pure gloss. Be sure to "link and sync" after carb job.....why? Carbs will tighten down in slightly different positions, throwing original settings off....they MUST open exactly the same, or it can cause one or more cylinders to run lean....and/or pull differently than the others, possibly shortening engine life and hindering performance.
 
Tim,

Thanks for link and sync reminder. I found a really great video on YouTube which is a guy from OMC, filmed about 35 years ago. I saved it. It's basically the seven step, full tune up and link and sink is one of the steps. They all have to be done in order, so this video is crucial. I'm most likely going to use all the new gaskets I have, basically everything from the head outward. Then follow the OMC manual for the fine tuning. But yes, it seems that the 3 carbs must be perfectly synced. It's nice that there are pointers all over the engine where things need to be adjusted and ligned up.
 
Back
Top