I did some reading turns out its the FWD seal that has the pop out issue.
Yes.... that is always the concern with the older V-8 double bearing PDS flywheel covers.
If we loose the FWD seal, the grease will take this path.... causing little or no grease to reach the more important AFT 6206 bearing during servicing.
The 2 aft ones that popped must have been freaks
I'm not following this...... there is only 1 AFT seal, and these always install in the "non-conventional" direction so that they will "breach" excessive grease.
P&C Thanks Rick
IMO, I'd remove your out drive
transmission only for this work.
If you need to remove the entire drive for other related work....., I would still remove the transmission first..... then re-install it last!
Cost to do this, is four O-rings and one fill plug gasket.
Replace the Water Neck fitting and special beaded gasket while in there..... and Bellows if need be.
IMO also, it is best to just remove the engine from the hull, and give yourself all the room that you can!
I'd remove the lag bolts from the engine towers or stringers... (depending on how yours are set up)...
and leave the mounts attached to the engine. This way you will not change anything regarding engine height.
NO, the alignment going back in should not be an issue. If need be, have someone reach in and turn the PDS from AFT while you are trying to get the PDS to engage into the B/W engine coupler splines.
Lightly grease these B/W splines!
BTW, there is no conventional snap ring pliers that works well to access the two large aft snap rings. I use an extra long needle nose pliers with the tips modified.
Round them off some on your bench grinder....., then gently bend the tips inward over the anvil portion of your bench vice as to help them grab and remain the hold on the snap ring eyelets.
Easy to do, and the pliers are inexpensive
I just fired an email to a person this morning. Here is what it contained:
The fwd bearing is a 6007, and the aft is the 6206.
These two bearings will be an Electric Motor grade and will be OPEN bearings.
SKF, Koyo, or any High Quality other than Chinese made.
P/N is same in any brand!
If you can't find an OPEN bearing, use a sealed bearing (same p/n but will have extension #s or characters to it) and just pick the seals from it.
Seals are same for both...... 35x62x7mm in a TCM and/or Timken.... fully rubber encapsulated.
FWD seal must be glued in place so that it can NEVER slip out of position.
Take heed of these important words my friends!
If we were to loose the FWD seal, no future grease will make it through the AFT bearing, of which is the more important of the two.
(I will be replacing a set next week whereby the owner's FWD seal had slipped out of position..... rear bearing had never received grease from that point on :hammer )
So for you V-8 V/P guys (double bearing pds), make sure that this FWD seal has a greater holding ability than the AFT seal.
The AFT seal installs in a non-conventional direction so that the lip will NOT work hydraulically.
I've actually considered cutting the lip on the AFT seal to create a point of breaching....... as it is not really a water seal anyway. We want this seal to breach pressure if too many pumps of grease are added at one time.
If we have water in this area, we have a failed Bellows that is the larger issue.
NOTE: the PDS and the rear 6206 bearing remove out the rear as a unit.
IOW, this bearing comes out with the PDS. It will be R&R'd on the work bench.
Re-install the PDS with the AFT-most bearing and clip installed on the shaft by inserting this into the F/C (again as a unit), followed by the two (2) large snap rings!
Install the new FWD bearing last, followed by the single large snap ring.
DO NOT yet install the two seals!
Now is the time to Pre-Fill the grease cavity with a good high pressure bearing grease (I choose to not use Marine Grease here)
After you have pre-filled the cavity,
while spinning the shaft, you will see grease come through the ball cage.
Now you have purged any air/voids from within the cavity.... any excess grease can be removed.
At this point ONLY stop, and install your two seals.
An eighteen inch grease gun extension hose works perfectly for a remote lube hose. ($7 at auto parts store)
This has 1/8" TPT at each end, and will thread right into the F/C grease port.
Install a 1/8" coupler and grease zirk at the remote end.
Zip tie this up next to your throttle cable bracket where it will be easily accessible.
(BTW, always lube these with engine running..... three/four pumps will usually do it at intervals of 30-40 hours or so!)
That is to say that ONLY if the cavity has been pre-filled, three/four future pumps will usually do it.
Hope that makes sense.
Rick
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Im thinking permatex 2 for the glue.
We want something that eventually hardens and prevents movement.
BTW Rick whats your grease of choice for the PDS bearing.
Ive been using
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/grease-gear-oil/crimson-grease
Any good high pressure bearing grease..... and it does not need to be water proof.
If we have water in this area, we have bigger problems!
