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Overheating 1977 Volvo TMD40 Turbo Diesel w/280 Outdrive

MV-Valhalla

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1977 Volvo TMD40 Turbo Diesel Cooling Problems (July 8th, 2012)

Equipment / Background
1977 25' Bayliner Saratoga
1977 Volvo TMD40 Turbo Diesel with under 500 original hours - looks like new
280 Volvo Outdrive (Single Prop 16x17 LH)
Less than 500 original hours on engine - looks like new

My 79 year old father is just finishing rebuilding a 1977 Bayliner 25' Saratoga that he bought about 18 months ago. It has the original engine which appears to be in new condition and only has under 500 original hours on it. It starts and runs great but it has an overheating problem. It has a closed circuit fresh-water cooling system on with an engine driven seawater pump that supplies water to the heat exchanger and exhaust manifold.

We launched it again today to test the hydraulic steering, prop sizing, etc. After running it for about 15 minutes at slow speed for warm-up and to get out of the harbor and past the no wake zone, we steadily increased the RPM's to get it up onto a plane and after about 5 minutes it was overheating and spit the hose off the overflow tank. We shut it down and came back in on the trolling motor (a 9.9hp Yamaha 4-stroke).

When he had the engine out of the boat to make repairs and modifications (some rotted deck and transom) he took the heat exchanger off and opened it up to see what kind of condition it was in. It looked nearly new inside. Still, he chose to run a small .17 caliber gun cleaning brush through the tubes in the heat exchanger (since it would never be easier than at that time).

He hooked everything up with the aid of an old diesel truck (large trucks) mechanic buddy (an 80 year old who still goes to work every day working on big rigs). But later, when he took the boat into marine repair shop (they had to lift the engine out temporarily to repair a very small leak at the 280 Volvo Outdrive), those mechanics said he had the cooling system hooked up wrong, so they corrected it. They work on Volvo stuff all the time.

Here's the dilemna, where in the world can we get a detailed schematic of the entire cooling system, heat exchanger, pumps, manifold, thermostats, etc. for the 1977 Volvo TMD40? Better yet if it is one with a 280 Volvo Outdrive?

Any and all ideas would be greatly appreciated. In fact you could say that in a way you might be saving the life of an old fisherman as fishing is all that keeps him going (my mother passed away 9 years ago) and without the boat there is no fishing. He fishes almost exclusively in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of Washington State, everywhere from the Columbia River to the Swift Shore Banks off of Neah Bay and Canada.

By the way, he put in a pair of new 192 degree thermostats before we put the boat in the water and it never overheated during test run-ups in the yard at home (running on the garden hose and muffs).

Let me thank you in advance for any advice, leads, schematics or resources you can direct me to. If anyone has a TMD40 with a heat exchanger (that is working properly) and could email me some photos of the plumbing on their engine it would also be very appreciated. My email is [email protected] and I can handle up to 10mb in attachments per email and pretty much unlimited emails.

Thanks again.

His son,
George
 
Look in this link for schematics and part numbers, scroll down to Cooling System

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/e-volvo-penta-119-TMD40A.aspx

Diesel will not make enough load to overheat when running on the hose or at low RPM in the water.

Path for raw water on your engine is simple. Water pickup ---> ENTER raw water pump EXIT ---> ENTER oil cooler EXIT ---> ENTER heat exchanger EXIT ---> ENTER exhaust elbow EXIT THRU EXHAUST

Pull hose entering exhaust elbow, and watch how strong the flow is when under way. If there is limited flow, most likely something is clogged. Most of the times its raw water impeller, it breaks up and pieces end up in the front of the oil cooler. Check for debris there EVEN if raw water impeller is new, most people just replace bad impeller and dont go tracking down all the missing vanes....

To monitor engine temperature get handheld InfraRed laser (IR) temperature gauge.

Exhaust elbow should be warm to the touch but not hot IF there is proper flow from the engine passing through.

Good luck
 
Had a similar problem on My Tamd 40. Was the bundle for the heat exchanger pulled and cleaned? The shell side or tank with the fresh water was dirty. moto_0160.jpg
 
If you are pressing the element out, it will never come out undamaged. Dissimilar metals make the element weld itself to the housing within first couple of years
 
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