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Overheat Antifreeze in bilge

J

jimw

Member
"I posted earlier about a swee

"I posted earlier about a sweet burned "antifreeze like odor" in my boat (Pursuit 3100 with 6L crusaders) and you all made several recommendations on how to locate the problem. Well, haven't had a lot of time lately to follow-up on the thoughts you guys had. However, that may now be a mute point. Ran the boat today and the port engine overheat warning came on after about an hour of running. Limped back on the starboard engine and upon getting home, raised the engine hatch and found a lot of antifreeze in the bilge. After the engines cooled down, I went in and looked and felt along all the fresh water cooling hoses and came up with nothing, all the hoses and clamp connections looked and felt dry. Any ideas on how the antifreeze could get out? I am not sure, but it looks like the over-flow tube from the de-gas bottle is routed back into the manifold. Is this right? If so, then the antifreeze in the bilge couldn't have come from the overflow tube??? Thanks for any help."
 
"There's a pressure relief

"There's a pressure relief system and if it will let loose, especially when an overheat occurs.

Previously, the consensus was to get the adapter and perform the pressure test; is that your next step?

The degas bottle should be connected to the HX. That may vary with the year. When in doubt, download the parts manual - the descriptions for most parts helps a lot."
 
"Yes I think a pressure test i

"Yes I think a pressure test is needed. However, I have been told not to do a pressure test with the type of de-gas bottle I have (2004 6L Captain's choice engine). If that is true, can I remove the degas bottle, build an adapter for the hose that goes into the heat exchanger from the bottle using a bicycle air valve to hook up a pump to? How much pressure should I apply?"
 
"5-6 lbs. should do it....If y

"5-6 lbs. should do it....If you have the 7lb cap installed, it should'nt hold pressure much higher"
 
"I think the newer one run wil

"I think the newer one run will a higher pressure cap. If you get the pressure tester adapters, you can check the cap and see where its valve pops. I wouldn't be surprised to see a 16# cap on the bottle. Also, if the coolant side is leaking, I'd be surprised if you didn't see it at 6-8 # in the system."
 
I talked to the Crusader tech

I talked to the Crusader tech guys today. The gave me a NAPA part number for an adapter to use with the de-gas bottle. I had to have NAPA order it for me and should be here in a couple of days. Thanks for the thoughts and input.
 
"I failed to ask them about th

"I failed to ask them about the system operating pressure. I do have a call into the Crusader techincal guys and awaiting their return call now. In the meantime, if anyone is interested, the adapter cap is NAPA part number 700-1308. It is pricey, $52.39 plus tax...Yikes!"
 
"Makomark, the de-gas bottle i

"Makomark, the de-gas bottle is labeled 11 pound pressure cap. The normal operating pressure then would be something less.
(You know how sometimes you can't see things right under your nose. I don't know how many times I have looked at that bottle and never noticed the pressure rating)."
 
jimw:

you can get one for a

jimw:

you can get one for a lot less if you can wait a few days....Assenmacher makes good stuff and it is a lot easier on the wallet than that ($28 delivered).
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll put Assenmacher on my notes pad. However, I already bit the bullet and bought the NAPA adapter cap.
Pressurized my system and found two leaks:
- A small leak right where the overflow tube clamps on to the de-gas bottle nipple. Easy fix.
- Bad news is that I am seeing coolant flowing out from under the hot water heater on the port side. It is a six gallon tank that uses the engine coolant to heat the house hot water while underway. I am pretty sure the heating core in the hot water tank has a hole in it. I am having my mechanic come over and verify my findings. If it is indeed the hot water heater, I have to replace it (It is going to be a beast of a job getting it out). In the meantime I can disconnect the in and out heater hoses coming from the engine and couple them together so I can run the boat until the new hot water heater comes in.
I am thinking that the hot water heater may be the source of the sweet antifreeze smell in the boat I was talking about earlier.
 
I'd say you did well in the detective dept. I've lost several water heater 'cores' over the years. Personally, I don't think they are built as well as many other items with the 'marine' tag on them.
 
Thanks makomark and everyone on this forum for their ideas and thoughts. My mechanics came by and verified the leak in the heater core. I have coupled the in/and out lines together so I can use the boat. Hot water will be limited to when I run the generator on tied to shore power. Not a big deal. I am not sure when I'll order a replacement hot water heater, they cost around $300. and my well is running dry.
 
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