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OT: Trailer swivel jack location?

am_dew

Advanced Contributor
I installed a Fulton swivel jack last summer on the tongue of my trailer for my 17' v-hull I/O (~2000 lbs). It replaced an old non-swivel jack. This past weekend while preparing for an oil change I discovered that this new jack does not lower far enough down to enable my outdrive to be fully lowered. Basically, the boat needs to have it's rear-end up in the air so the outdrive has the clearance needed to fully lowered...it's an older Volvo 270 outdrive and from what I understand the drive should always be fully lowered when running the engine, even in neutral.

So, I'm looking for suggestions on how to get the back of the boat up higher than it goes now when the swivel jack is in it's lowest position. I thought about re-mounting the swivel jack to one of the trailer's angled cross pieces that is welded to the tongue. This would move the jack farther back towards the trailer wheels and allow the tongue to lower enough. Are there any problems with mounting a swivel jack to this location on the trailer frame?

x = current location
y = proposed new location

trailer.jpg


Thanks!
 
The only issue that I can see with "Y" (being off to one side of the trailer frame) would be torque to the trailer frame......... "X" being the less offensive of the two potential positions!

Is the heigth of the hull supporting system (bunks or roller system) adjustable?
If so, why not raise the entire hull a wee bit?
 
Thanks Ricardo. The bunks are adjustable but I really don't want to go there unless I have to.
 
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I would think that the torquing of the frame per Ricardo's post could be tolerable if you only used the jack in that "Y" location to raise and lower the tongue and that normal storage of the boat would make use of a concrete block under the tongue ( at "X") and that prolonged positioning of the boat for maintenance of the drive would also have the tongue supported with a smaller block.
 
I mentioned in my OP how I thought the outdrive should be fully lowered when running the engine, even in neutral. Is my understanding correct about this especially when it's only being run in neutral gear? Would having it be just a few inches from being fully down harm anything? If not, that solves my problem.
 
If the drive was incapable of operation above Full Down, it would be pointless to have Power Trim (of which I know you do not have) or to steer Port/Stdb.
Point being, you are OK to run the engine at low speeds while it is tilted up some. The Universal Drive Shaft will handle this amount of articulation... particularly at low rpm.

However, consider that raising the bunks (if no other conflicts... such as garage door) gains you this on a permanent basis. It may even make trailering more safe for the drive!

.
 
If the drive was incapable of operation above Full Down, it would be pointless to have Power Trim (of which I know you do not have) or to steer Port/Stdb.
Point being, you are OK to run the engine at low speeds while it is tilted up some. The Universal Drive Shaft will handle this amount of articulation... particularly at low rpm.

However, consider that raising the bunks (if no other conflicts... such as garage door) gains you this on a permanent basis. It may even make trailering more safe for the drive!

.

Thanks Ricardo. I really hesitate to raise the bunks since they have been in the same position for 38 years and the boat has always trailered perfectly...ie. why mess with a good thing if I can find another alternative? Someone suggested backing onto a 2x8 and then blocking the wheels...that may give me enough clearance, we'll see.
 
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