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One dead hole

393Clevor

Regular Contributor
New ignition, coils, points, condenser, wires and plugs.. one hole the top one only hits way off time and kicks it hard almost stalling it, kinda backfires a little.. I put fuel in the plug hole trying to see if it was a fuel issue but same results.. Nothing has changed.. the only thing I didn't change was the coils they look new as new could look.. I will try and swap them and see if the miss moves to the lower hole..

here is a video I took when I got home with the old girl first time it started and it still runs the same... When it misses it puffs some smoke out.. about a minute into the video.. I have no idea how long it sat before I got it.. Enjoy.. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5HPfY-PUv4

btw 75psi even in both holes.. could be my old gauge is off a little.. but they are even so that's good..
 
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If you have to pull that many times something is wrong !------Also the throttle is turned to the nuetral stop and left there for starting.--No need to turn it so much.------Ignore the marking on the handle.-----If spark does NOT jump a gap of 5/16" your magneto needs attention !!!
 
If you have to pull that many times something is wrong !------Also the throttle is turned to the nuetral stop and left there for starting.--No need to turn it so much.------Ignore the marking on the handle.-----If spark does NOT jump a gap of 5/16" your magneto needs attention !!!

I would expect it starting that hard after setting for who knows how long.. years and years.. I'm surprised it fired at all... coils are the only thing that I have not replaced myself.. they look brand new as did everything else I have replaced so far..
 
The length of time it sat has little to do with hard starting.-----Does spark on this motor jump a gap of 5/16" , yes or no ?
 
The length of time it sat has little to do with hard starting.-----Does spark on this motor jump a gap of 5/16" , yes or no ?

OK.. so any motor that has sat for years and years should just start first pull? I don't think so.. I'll have to check the 5/16 spark test... Coils are on their way...
 
Oh well good luck with your project.-----I did NOT say the first pull.-----But if you have to pull 20 times there is something WRONG.
 
Just set up the tester I have.. more than 5/16 gap and I get spark.. not every time it's not constant at that gap.. both hole about the same.. forgot my phone..
 
got a tester like this one.. I haven't used it in 20 years.. lol
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What's the model number of that engine?

Sitting for years!..... That carburetor is clogged, fouled, gummed... as Joe Namath states in his commercial, "Guaranteed!".

After cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor as needed (kits & other parts available here), adjust it as follows:
********************
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************
Point setting..... Withe the fiber rubbing portion of the points aligned with the flywheel key, set the points so that a .020 gauge will go thru BUT a .022 will not. That'll get you extremely close to the factory setting.

The portion of the armature plate that the coils set upon has a very slight bevel to them. The metal portion of the coils should be aligned with the inside portion of the bevel for proper clearance between the coil and the flywheel magnets.

Gas tank... if empty... put a gallon of gas in there first, then the oil. Putting oil into a empty gas tank first will result in having pure oil pumped directly into the carburetor.

I'd recommend Champion J6C spark plugs for that engine due to the engine's age. Gap them to .030 .

Mixture should be 24/1... 1qt of 50/1 oil to 6gal gas.
 
What's the model number of that engine?

Sitting for years!..... That carburetor is clogged, fouled, gummed... as Joe Namath states in his commercial, "Guaranteed!".

After cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor as needed (kits & other parts available here), adjust it as follows:
********************
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason `to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************
Point setting..... Withe the fiber rubbing portion of the points aligned with the flywheel key, set the points so that a .020 gauge will go thru BUT a .022 will not. That'll get you extremely close to the factory setting.

The portion of the armature plate that the coils set upon has a very slight bevel to them. The metal portion of the coils should be aligned with the inside portion of the bevel for proper clearance between the coil and the flywheel magnets.

Gas tank... if empty... put a gallon of gas in there first, then the oil. Putting oil into a empty gas tank first will result in having pure oil pumped directly into the carburetor.

I'd recommend Champion J6C spark plugs for that engine due to the engine's age. Gap them to .030 .

Mixture should be 24/1... 1qt of 50/1 oil to 6gal gas.

Thanks for the reply...awesome..

Carb was clean believe it or not.. I was surprised.. the only thing bad was the float nasty looking thing, never seen anything like it.. been twisting wrenches for 40 years and never seen a float look like this one..

I removed the flywheel and everything was new inside.. green coils, look brand dandy new.. points the same like new. condensers looked old so I did replace those with a fresh set of points that came in a kit. Still ran the same.. on one cylinder with the other one popping in and out like a bad spark plug.. replaced them, same thing..

I did set the carb like you said only I went 1-1/2 turns out on both adjusters that's pretty much the standard until it runs and they can be adjusted.. they could be 3 turns and it should still fire on both holes.. all I'm getting is one hole firing..

I pulled the intake and the reed valve look ok I didn't touch them I just looked at them nothing looked bad or out of place all the valves were closed none were hanging open..

only thing I haven't done is replace the coils.. got them coming..

Looks like someone has had this apart a million times trying to fix it.. hopping the coils fix it..
 
I can only assume that by "one hole firing" that you're stating that you've actually checked/tested the spark and are referring to the fact that only one plug wire is emitting a spark that will jump a 1/4" gap?

If so, and the coils and points are set/aligned as I mentioned above, the problem is usually a plug wire arcing out to the armature plate or the side of the block.
 
I can only assume that by "one hole firing" that you're stating that you've actually checked/tested the spark and are referring to the fact that only one plug wire is emitting a spark that will jump a 1/4" gap?

If so, and the coils and points are set/aligned as I mentioned above, the problem is usually a plug wire arcing out to the armature plate or the side of the block.

I get spark from both holes.. I pull the plugs hook them up and pull it over they both spark.. put it together and it only run on one hole.. new solid core wires too.. all this work and parts and nothing has changed..
 
has to be coils.. I'll double check everything again!! going to wait on the coils before I do any more to it.. I got other crap that needs fixing.. lol Thanks guys..
 
what the carb looked like when I took it apart.. not to shabby but that float wow never seen anything like it.. almost looks like someone covered it with resin


60344088_430986107700117_3267596305454596096_n.jpg
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Open your eyes and see where that puff of smoke is coming from and you will know the cause of that lean sneeze. Air is leaking in/out wherever the smoke is coming from.

Old floats were covered with orange shellac. Age ate yours. But even so, alcohol (Ethanol) dissolves shellac. New floats are alcohol proof. Just replace it.
 
Open your eyes and see where that puff of smoke is coming from and you will know the cause of that lean sneeze. Air is leaking in/out wherever the smoke is coming from.

Old floats were covered with orange shellac. Age ate yours. But even so, alcohol (Ethanol) dissolves shellac. New floats are alcohol proof. Just replace it.

I looked and the only thing I noticed was the pressure line that feeds the fuel tank was split I replaced that.. I rebuilt the carb as well... it just has not once ran on two cylinders.. not even for a second.. I'm hopping the coils will fix it.. it has to be spark.. I've poured fuel in the cylinder and nothing no fire..

thanks for posting.. everyone really thanks a lot..
 
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changed out the coils and all is good it's got both cylinders firing the way they should... now on the gear case.. ordered the wrong seals..

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