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OMC Remote Control Neutral Lock-out

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
I have an original ‘96 OMC remote control for an ‘96 Evinrude 150. V6. I’m unable to rev motor in neutral. All other remote functions work as intended. Have performed link & synch (for other reasons) and cable adjustments per manual. Not familiar with outboard remote controls. There is a button (switch?) on the lower portion of the control plate. It doesn’t seem to do anything. Is that the neutral lock-out? If so, it may be broken. Thanks for any input offered.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Thanks for your response. Just came in from garage after removing & disassembly of remote control. I think I found the problem. I will follow-up later.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Racerone, Sorry for my delayed response. Since the control action seemed stiff, and I was unable to rev the motor in neutral, I decided to remove and disassemble the control for inspection. Regardless of any issues that may be present, at minimum, I thought lubrication would be appropriate, especially given what I believe to be its original (‘96) condition. After disassembly, I located an online Seaswirl Striper Owner Manual. I wish I had discovered the manual before disassemby. Too late now! The manual described the control and procedure for neutral revs as one of two types: pull-out type, or lock button type. Since I have already disassembled the control, I’m not certain which type I have. That said, I found the "disengage button" (near the bottom of the Control face) was immovable (in or out). After disassembly and lubrication, the button now works by pushing in. It is spring-loaded and automatically returns to it outside (detent) location. So, I’m guessing I have the lock button (push-in) type. In any case, it may not be clear (to me) which type of control I have until I reassemble and install.it. As you requested, I have included an old pic of the remote control before removal. The PN on the control backing plate is: OMC.126013. Thanks for your help.

.20220512 Throttle Control 1 png.png Striper Remote Control Backing Plate 20230604 png.png
 

louc

Regular Contributor
I have the pull out type on mine and it doesn't look like what you have, so I'm thinking you have the button style.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
I have the pull out type on mine and it doesn't look like what you have, so I'm thinking you have the button style.
Thanks. I think you're correct. Anxious to hear Racerone's opinion. Now, if I can put it back together (CORRECTLY). Googling what I thought was the control PN is actually just the PN for the backing plate. I followed the link to Marhine Engine and it illustrated a parts diagram for a 1991 control unit, which appears identical to mine. So, at least I have a guide for reassembly. We shall see! Thanks again.
 

racerone

Gold Medal Contributor
Some of those you push the button in and hold it in.----Disengages the shift.----Then move lever for throttle.----After warm up you move throttle lever to neutral.----Button pops out and you are ready for boating fun.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Some of those you push the button in and hold it in.----Disengages the shift.----Then move lever for throttle.----After warm up you move throttle lever to neutral.----Button pops out and you are ready for boating fun.
Got it. Now, if I can re-assemble correctly! Many thanks!
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Some of those you push the button in and hold it in.----Disengages the shift.----Then move lever for throttle.----After warm up you move throttle lever to neutral.----Button pops out and you are ready for boating fun.
Racerone, A couple questions, if you don’t mind.
1. Do you know to which positions the control cables (throttle & shift) should be connected? When I disconnected the cables, I marked them for positions, but the markings rubbed off before I reinstalled. I’m guessing the shift cable connects to the lever shift (PN 125993) and the throttle cable connects to arm throttle (PN 174922). Waddya think?
2. Also (this is REALLY embarrassing), during disassembly of the Control, I found 2 small ball bearings. One ball bearing (neutral detent PN 125997) inserts into the spindle portion of the driveshaft plate (PN 0174921). The parts diagram lists the bearing as 1/2. I can’t tell from the parts diagram where the second bearing goes. Worse yet (here’s the embarrassment), I dropped one of the ball bearings and have no clue where it may be. Have torn the garage apart…no luck. Since the cost of a BRM Control replacement is $250-$300 or so, the lost bearing becomes a $300 dollar part. That said, any idea if the control may still function WITHOUT the second bearing? It seems to work on the bench, but no idea what may happen when reinstalled on boat.
Leaving the boat location in a few days (for the summer), so no time to order the bearing, but would like to leave with some closure. So, thought I may as well reinstall for test. Your reply would be appreciated. Thanks again.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
AS a follow-up, my wife miracously found the lost ball bearing. I inserted into what I believe to be the correct position (shift lever cam and driveshaft/plate support). After reassembling the control 3 times, I can’t get the shift lever to function properly. The throttle parts work nicely, but the shift lever becomes immovable. The problem seems to be the alignment of the shift lever into the shift lever cam and the driveshaft/plate support. It seems the placement of the (3) roller bearings that fit into/between the parts above is critical to allow free rotation and / or engagement of the shift lever, dependent upon desired control function. Does anyone know the correct positioning of the roller bearings and shift lever cam/shift lever/driveshaft/plate support? The parts diagram isn’t specific about roller bearing placement. Incidentally, I’ve searched for a "how-to" video, but found nothing that matches my OMC concealed (flush) side mount control. Any direction would be appreciated.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Final comment: it’s been commented on this site, and others, that members often fail to state the results of their attempts with repair issues; thereby failing to extend their findings, which may be helpful to others. That said, I offer the following.

I disassembled / reassembled control unit 4 more times. I finally discovered (what I believe to be) the correct alignment of he (3) roller bearings in the shift lever cam / shift lever and driveshaft plate support. After reassembling all parts, I bench tested the operation of the control, SUCCESSFULLY rotating the full range of the spindle 4X with shift and throttle arms operating in proper sequence…..as well as, proper shift disengagement for neutral warm-up operation. I then took the assembled control to the boat for installation. I successfully tested operation again before installation. I then attached the shift and throttle cables before installing the control to the boat. Recall, the control unit is a concealed (flush) mount, which requires cable attachments prior to installation. I decided to make one final test before final installation. Although the throttle arm rotated properly, the shift lever was no longer operating. Btw, the cables were moving freely, and should have no influence on the operation of the shift lever…..other than potential hard operation….which there is none. Hoping for a miracle, and regardless of seeming failure, I installed the unit. Not surprisingly, there was still no shift control, although throttle continued to function well. At this point, I can’t imagine how the roller bearings could be installed in other way that what I did for proper function. Improper positioning will not permit the parts to go (slide) together. That said, it’s clear shift engagement is clearly a function of the positioning of the roller bearings in the shift lever cam and contiguous parts. So, I’m at a dead-end as to the proper completion of the repair. I give!

Not certain if the most recent lack of response from members is due to disinterest of the subject or lack of knowledge. I hoped I could solicit the help of someone with the knowledge of how to properly diagnose and repair my control unit. That said, thanks to those who offered what they could.
 

louc

Regular Contributor
It’s just that I think no one has ever taken one of these apart before. I have a new in the box Sea Star CH1700 to replace my old OMC control. Haven’t done it yet because taking off the coaming panel on my boat is a real pain. Maybe in the fall I’ll get to it….
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Of course, you may be right. I may be the only person foolish enough to attempt repair….or at least, I’m beginning to feel,that way. I was attempting to avoid replacement control unit, since the replacement unit is likely different enough to prompt new mounting difficulties.

Like you, I’m abandoning further repair attempts, at least for now. I’m leaving the location of the boat until September. Whenever you decide on your Sea Star Control installation, I hope it goes smoothly.

Thanks for your comments.
 

Woodybelle

Contributing Member
Problem solved! Many thanks to all contributors, especially Racerone on ME and Seahorse and Unevensteven on The Hull Truth (THT) forum. Anyone interested in the final (successful) repair procedure may follow my "OMC Concealed Sidemount Remote Control Repair" thread on THT. Thanks again.
Now, onto wiring, new gauges, and electrical issues. And then, rebuilding the main deck hatch over the gas tank.
 
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