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OMC 140 engine removal

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Flyinb

New member
New here and looking for a few answers. A friend has a houseboat with a 1981 omc 140 and its leaking lots of oil into the bilge after being ran. After looking it over i couldn't find any leaks but after it sat for a bit there would be oil in the bilge again so my guess it is leaking from the rear main seal and slowly leaks out the dust cover under engine, does that sound about right?
Is it possible to pull this engine without removing the outdrive and while the boat is in the water? If so i will be able to do the job for him as it costs a fortune to take the boat out and put back in the water.
 
Welcome aboard !

Lower the drive fully down, place a flat piece of wood under the skeg, raise the bow till the skeg touch's the wood, now when you remove the engine the drive won't bind the shaft in the coupler.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove all the wires, and the cables, to the engine, remove the flywheel cover. Don't forget about the tilt solenoids low and on the port side, i just removed the whole shebang, the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the manifold.

Remove all the bolts and screws holding the bell housing to the engine.

Remove the front mount, lift the engine a tad and slid it forward 6" and then up and out of the boat.

Remove the boat under the engine and lower the engine.

Been there done that about 2 hours,

What you might find... the pan is leaking and or the timing gear cover, the oil drain plug, if you have the pipe connecting to the drain plug i would just remove and install a new drain plug.

Clean the ground and all the connections while the engine is out and paint everything new and old while it's out.
 
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Thanks Master,
My main concern is that when i pull the engine water don't come flooding in :) As i said the boat is in the water and i hope to do it where it sets at the dock. Instead of a piece of wood under the skeg i could use a chain or come a long to hold it up i would imagine.

Master mechanic said:
Welcome aboard !

Lower the drive fully down, place a flat piece of wood under the skeg, raise the bow till the skeg touch's the wood, now when you remove the engine the drive won't bind the shaft in the coupler.

Disconnect the battery.

Remove all the wires, and the cables, to the engine, remove the flywheel cover. Don't forget about the tilt solenoids low and on the port side, i just removed the whole shebang, the 2 bolts holding the bracket to the manifold.

Remove all the bolts and screws holding the bell housing to the engine.

Remove the front mount, lift the engine a tad and slid it forward 6" and then up and out of the boat.

Remove the boat under the engine and lower the engine.

Been there done that about 2 hours,

What you might find... the pan is leaking and or the timing gear cover, the oil drain plug, if you have the pipe connecting to the drain plug i would just remove and install a new drain plug.

Clean the ground and all the connections while the engine is out and paint everything new and old while it's out.
Click to expand...
 
there's no reason water would come in as you are removing the engine, and leaving the intermediate housing and drive in the boat. The intermediate fits through the big transom boot and the rear engine mounts are on the intermediate. That's why it needs support- the drive will want to pivot on the rear mounts as you lift the engine- but not a big deal as long as you watch and are careful.

You have one of the few drive systems where this is actually possible.
 
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Sounds great, my friend will be very happy he don't have to dry dock the boat. OK hystat i have a better picture now of how it's mounted, thank you. Is there a online schematic one could look at? I will do the job for him to save him a few $$ but have only worked on the Mercruiser.
 
Jam a piece of wood between the drive and the hull so it doesn't move.

You should get a manual i bought mine at West marine, you need # 3400 in the right hand corner Seloc is what i have.
 
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