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Old Colt in need of some advice

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Old colt

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Greetings,

Thanks in advance for helping out with any knowledge you can spare. I came across this old Johnson Colt. I believe is a 2hp. It was ceased up but I managed to release the piston. I am a complete novice with engines in general but especially marine engines.

I have a few questions that I am hoping can be answered here:

1. What year is this engine? the model number is shown below.
2. Is it worth trying to restore?
3. Where can I find parts?
4. The carb appears to be in good shape. Should I rebuilt it anyway?
5. On the top of the shroud it says the fuel mix is 100:1 does this sound correct?

Thanks again for any input


 

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1987 model --Run this motor at 40:1 if you want it to last a long time.---Parts are readily available from this site.
 
Model CJCOCUA is a 1987 1-1/2hp Johnson

1. What year is this engine? the model number is shown below. --> 1987 1.5hp Johnson.
2. Is it worth trying to restore? --> Entirely up to the restorer.
3. Where can I find parts? --> This site, outboard shops, eBay, any dealership, Sierra, etc.
4. The carb appears to be in good shape. Should I rebuilt it anyway? --> Yes, but wait to see if you can restore the compression.
5. On the top of the shroud it says the fuel mix is 100:1 does this sound correct? --> No, use the 50/1 mixture.
 
Thank you very much Fellas. I came up with 1987 as well but the guy told me it was 60s era, I didn't think so. Thank for confirming this.

The top inch or so of the cylinder has some minor corrosion, is it possible to avoid a re-bore? I hear a minor scuff when the piston is near TDC.
I don't suppose you could suggest the procedures I should complete and point towards a parts list? Thanks a lot everybody.
 
Great thanks. It is a 1.2 hp not a 1.5 afterall. I have no idea what to order? Some advice would be really great.
 
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I see that in my original reply, I stated that the engine was a 1.2hp... then shortly thereafter made a typo stating it was a 1.5hp.

Sorry about that as it is indeed a 1.2hp model.
 
I believe these are the parts that I need:

18-2884-9 - Gasket 313782 2-Pack
Quantity: @$7.72$7.72
0502196 - Sp Plg RJ6C (Out of Stock: Ships in 5-7 days.)
Quantity: @$3.11$3.11
0439080 - Powerhead Gasket Set
Quantity: @$17.99$17.99
18-7043 - Carburetor Kit 398532, 382049
Quantity: @$14.17$14.17
 
My eyebrows shot up when I saw that RJ6C plug spec. But checking the parts list, sure enough that is what it says. That R means it is a resistor plug. Except for certain special needs, resistor plugs should be avoided in outboards. I see no "special need" for it in this case. A common J6C (593871) should work just fine. That's what they used for years in similar motors.
 
Well Gents, I have finally received my parts. Installed and reassembled. The old girl just doesn't want to fire up. There is some fuel leaking out the front of the carb at full choke. I did not replace the carb mount gasket it was in great shape, number 31 on the this link. I will also note the motor is on a minor tilt forward because of the large bucket that it's in.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...O-CUA&manufacturer=Johnson&section=Carburetor

I did buy the carb repair kit but I haven't done it yet. I was hoping to see if she had some life first. Can anyone advise what I might check next? Would a short vid help? She has lots of spark too. Thanks in advance
 
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Hi Dave,
I dont have a comp tester but it sounds and looks like its pretty snug in there. The piston was seized but came free quite easily with a little tap. It is pretty easy to pull over though. It does have a strong bright spark.
 
Have some fuel mixture in a old spray bottle and speay some into the carburetor throat or into the cylinder via the spark plug hole. If the engine fires, go ahead and clean/rebuild the carburetor. If no fire action at all, I would assume you'll need to work on the compression somewhat.

That Champion J6C plug that fdgator spoke of... gap it at .030.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Ok well, I just tried spraying some fuel mixture into the cylinder head via the spark plug hole, no fire action. I also don't have a spark plug gapper. Would it make that much difference to cause no fire action at all? I probably need new rings, will I need new gaskets again?
 
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Using a sparkplug laying on the block is NOT A PROPER SPARK TEST and a waste of time.!-------You need to set up something with a 5/16" gap to properly test the spark.
 
Darn piston and rings are over $70, another new head gasket $15. This old girl is hardly worth the trouble but I'm already $60 invested...
 
OK, you ought to check the compression, especially since you said it was stuck. The rings could be stuck. Moving on from there, you said it is tilted forward. That, my friend, may be the whole problem. Gas is running out the front of the carburetor because of gravity. It should go the other way, into the engine instead of out.

Make sure the initial carburetor adjustments are correct, level it up, use a J6C plug, and see what happens. You may have it flooded from dumping gas into the cylinder.
 
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