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The alarm will sound only when the main engine mounted oil tank is low. The remote tank could be low or it could be full.
For the automatic transfer system to work the CDI must be receiving a ground from the remote oil tank sensor. As noted, the wire harness from the motor to the remote tank can have poor conductivity. Either from the block to the sensor, the sensor itself could have failed, or from the sensor to the CDI.[/QUOTE
Thank you
i will check into this but help me understand. If the manual switch works don’t I have a good ground? There are four wires to the remote tank under the seat. Two for level sensor and two for pump.
Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground.
The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI.
The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home.
A ground is needed on more than just the black wires.
A ground has to go from the block, to the remote tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. Via a problematic connector or two.
A ground has to go from the block, to the main oil tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI.
A lack of either ground will inhibit the automatic transfer system.
Gotcha I was thinking the same thing it will read continuity but not pass current. will change the harness from the engine to the remote tank and get a new filter.
thanks
What is the complete model of your motor? There was no 250TXRD provided by Yamaha USA in 2005.I have a 2005 250 txrd and having the same problem. Both sensors check ok with a meter the motor runs with the e/switch and on the bench. I checked continuity from the motor to the remote tank. Have a negative on all the black wires involved. I have a service manual. What am I missing?
The oil transfer pump is not a two speed pump. One speed only. It the system is transferring oil by use of the toggle switch for this purpose then the filter is more than likely just fine.
Absolutely positively not.Wrong, the pump runs at a slower speed when activated by the float.
what is the complete model of your motor? There was no 250txrd provided by yamaha usa in 2005.
A 250txrd would be a two stroke carburetted model. A two stroke carburetted 250 hp model was not available in the usa. I am guessing that you have a z250txrd or a vz250txrd. Why is it so hard to type those extra letters?
The z250txrd and the vz250txrd have an ecu. Similar, but different, to cdi. The brains of the motor. From the automatic oil transfer system standpoint they work the same. From 1996 and later that is.
In a Z250TXRD the brains of the motor is called an engine control module. ECM. Aka an ECU. It controls the automatic transfer of the oil from the remote tank to the main tank. Same thing that a CDI assembly does in other Yamaha models.z250txrd hpdi
no hadn't had much time to fool with it going to try to get to it todayIn a Z250TXRD the brains of the motor is called an engine control module. ECM. Aka an ECU. It controls the automatic transfer of the oil from the remote tank to the main tank. Same thing that a CDI assembly does in other Yamaha models.
Did you find your problem?
I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarmTry a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half
Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low.
You turned the key off before the initial auto fill procedure was completed. That is the only time that the pump will run without the motor running.I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarm
then it started raining. going to put it in the water and try it...
Thanks
ha ha yep should have time this weekend will follow instructions...You turned the key off before the initial auto fill procedure was completed. That is the only time that the pump will run without the motor running.
After all else fails, follow instructions.
ha ha yep should have time this weekend will follow instructions...
thanks