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Oil Pan Drain Plug

troym

troym

Advanced Contributor
Are the oil pan drain plugs sealed with some kind of addhesive? Tried to loosen it with what I thought was a lot of force. It didn't budge, and I don't want to risk breaking something.

I want to get it loose to flush a little clean oil through the pan. I had water in the cylinders and want to make sure I don't have any lying in the bottom of the oil pan. Not convinced the suction tube is getting everything.

Any tricks/suggestions?
 
troym said:
Are the oil pan drain plugs sealed with some kind of addhesive? Tried to loosen it with what I thought was a lot of force. It didn't budge, and I don't want to risk breaking something.

I want to get it loose to flush a little clean oil through the pan. I had water in the cylinders and want to make sure I don't have any lying in the bottom of the oil pan. Not convinced the suction tube is getting everything.

Any tricks/suggestions?
Click to expand...

the last person to drain the oil using this plug may have used locktight ...suck out as much oil as you can ...then using a small propane torch heat the plug and when still hot try to remove ..
 
Engine is in the boat and yes... righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, taking into consideration the plug is upside down and I have to make my arms bend in places God never intended to reach it.
Wasn't too keen on the torch thing. If I end up setting fire to the boat I'd rather not be stuck in the bilge.
 
troym said:
Engine is in the boat and yes... righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, taking into consideration the plug is upside down and I have to make my arms bend in places God never intended to reach it.
Wasn't too keen on the torch thing. If I end up setting fire to the boat I'd rather not be stuck in the bilge.
Click to expand...

since it is hard to get at you may have to buy some tools .
 
what motor i get mine on the starboard side, i can reach it with my left hand. Put a piece of pipe on the flat wrench and use the closed end on the nut head. I got copper pipes just for that kinda chit, i just flattened one end with a hammer to widen the opening.
 
It's a 5.7L. Half the engine sits back inside the transom, with a engine box over the front half. Engine sits between foam boxes on the main stringers.
Getting a tool on it with plenty of leverage isn't the issue. On my last attempt, I was able to get a breaker bar with a crows foot down there... just don't want to apply so much force it wrings off or breaks something. By feel, I'd say I'm putting upwards of 150ft-lbs on there and it hasn't even budged.
I'll give it another go and see if I can get another set of hands down there to rap it with a hammer while I try to loosen. If that doesn't do it, I'll concede defeat and just change the oil after a few good runs and keep doing that until I have some reasonable assurance there's no water left in there.
 
troym said:
It's a 5.7L. Half the engine sits back inside the transom, with a engine box over the front half. Engine sits between foam boxes on the main stringers.
Getting a tool on it with plenty of leverage isn't the issue. On my last attempt, I was able to get a breaker bar with a crows foot down there... just don't want to apply so much force it wrings off or breaks something. By feel, I'd say I'm putting upwards of 150ft-lbs on there and it hasn't even budged.
I'll give it another go and see if I can get another set of hands down there to rap it with a hammer while I try to loosen. If that doesn't do it, I'll concede defeat and just change the oil after a few good runs and keep doing that until I have some reasonable assurance there's no water left in there.
Click to expand...

if you feel the rotating force was about 150ft lbs they must have used loctite...the only way to remove will be the torch..since its in a tight area with the engine in the boat this technic , in your case may not be possible..

with the engine oil hot then suck out the crankcase oil...any water should be in the oil...if it cools down the water will then separate and be at the bottom of the pan..
 
Not turning it the wrong way... unless it's got left hand threads.
Gave it one last go last night. No joy. If it's in there with locktite, it's the strongest damn locktite I've ever seen or heard of. I'm thinking it's something more like JB Weld or Copaltite.
That's fine. I'll change the oil after a couple of runs, and continue frequent oil changes until there's no more sign of any water.
 
troym said:
Not turning it the wrong way... unless it's got left hand threads.
Gave it one last go last night. No joy. If it's in there with locktite, it's the strongest damn locktite I've ever seen or heard of. I'm thinking it's something more like JB Weld or Copaltite.
That's fine. I'll change the oil after a couple of runs, and continue frequent oil changes until there's no more sign of any water.
Click to expand...

if the stud is upside down then you must rotate to the right to remove ..
 
the trouble is,if the threads are loctited,or seized,theres a risk of tearing off the tiny spotwelds that hold the thread block to the sump skin,if a lot of force used..Ive seen it happen,hell of a job to fix.have to take sump off then.could try hot air gun on the sump plug,no flames,and they do get things hot.good luck
 
Thanks budgie, and all... but really... it doesn't need to come off at all. It's fine right where it is.
 
Careful! I had the same problem so decided to use a breaker bar...it twisted it right off and ripped a stress crack on the side of the threaded hole. I ended up having to remove the motor and replacing the pan. So being that the motor was out...I took it one step further and converted the I/O to an outboard. Best "Boo Boo" I've ever made on the boat. Love the OB conversion :D
 
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