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Oil Filter Inspection??

R

rod_stewart

Outstanding Contributor
Does anyone cut apart their used oil filters and inpsect the pleats for metal fragments and other "stuff"? I picked up this idea from an aircraft engine mechanic friend.

I do this about every second oil change, just to see that the engine is not self-destructing.
It's easy to do with an air hammer; just cut the can apart at the lower seam, then cut the pleats top an bottom with a sharp knife, and stretch them out flat. Using a bright light it's easy to see if there are any shiny metal particles hiding in the pleats, or anything else that shoudn't be there.

Not surprisingly, my first filter inspection on a new remanufactured 6.2 MPI turned up quite a bit of interesting stuff, but basically nothing since then.

Anyone else do this?

Rod
 
There is actually a tool i used while in the Air Force used just for that purpose.

Yes i do it and have recently been doing it with portable generators that have a spin on filter.
 
never do but sounds like a good idea, always check out drive lube when I dump it, will drain a sample in to a mason jar.
 
yes, as much for environmental reasons as investigation. I recycle the steel parts, and we welded up a filter squeezer for our 20T press. A dozen filters will give a cup of oil. Keeps it out of the landfill.
I occasionally use hydraulic ones for starting the fire pit.
 
I was wondering what the next step would be if metal particles were found in the oil but the engine seemed to be running well.
 
You can get filter cutters from aviation supply places online like Aircraft Spruce or Wag-aero.
If you find (see) metal you need to send it and an oil sample to an oil analysis service. They can identify the alloy and help pinpoint what parts are going bad. For example crank bearing vs. pistons. Even if you cant see metal in your filter pleats, regular oil analysis of the oil sample at each oil change will have wear particles you can't see that can still be identified. Regular oil analysis is typical for fleet maintenance or aviation where the engine prices are high or your business or life depends on engine performance. It is about getting something fixed before it breaks.
 
If you are in a large enough city with many fleet trucking companies, give a call to one of them, and ask who they recommend for engine oil analysis lab work.

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oil analysis is ok, if you do it consistently and watch for a trend. A one time sample won't tell anything of value.
Keep in mind, the basic sample only tests for particles under approx. 20 microns. Cutting filters shows you chunks over 40 microns. Together you cover all bases. You can have a lot of issues and no small particles. Any Caterpillar dealer has a lab and competitive prices. Finning has a pretty fancy setup. You can view the results online 48 hours after they receive the sample.
You buy a case of the sample bottles and the case includes postage paid mailing labels. Make sure the lids are on nice and tight. Contaminating a bag of mail with used oil not a good idea.
Given the choice, I would cut filters. I do both. but I get the bottles for free... not sure I would bother with sampling otherwise.

As far as metal in the filter, well again, you are looking for a trend. My old N* Cadillac always had a few flakes of lead-tin overlay as do most engines. But then the flake count started to double, and then triple. I dealt it. The oil samples showed no real increase in copper, lead, or aluminum, but were testing positive for glycol.

Finning also carry 2 types of filter cutter (shallow and deep filter head), but you'd get one off eBay for about half their price. Can get cutter wheels at Cdn tire if they wear out.
 
Last edited:
bobbyc said:
I was wondering what the next step would be if metal particles were found in the oil but the engine seemed to be running well.
Click to expand...
Good question.
If you notice lots of shiny flakes in the size range of small salt grains up to pin-head size, and if they are increasing, that is a sure indication something is failing. Could be flakes of bearing babbit, cracked ring scraping cylinder wall, dry rocker arm wearing, lifter/cam wear, etc etc.
Whatever, its a sign of impending failure.
Your choices are to either sell it off, or pull the engine and tear it down for inspection and repair.
My policy is that if i notice a few flakes on a routine filter inspection, then I will run only 10-15 hours on the next oil change and fully inspect that filter. If there are more or larger flakes, then the engine is pulled.

Rod
 
hystat said:
first thing I do when I see flakes is get a magnet and see if they stick.
Click to expand...

I agree 100%.
What you are really doing is trying to find first indications af a developing problem before the part catastophically fails and ruins the entire engine.

Rod
 
If you are running a salt water cooled engine and it were 5 or more years old, is it worth rebuilding or should it be replaced???
 
Depends what's wrong with it and who is rebuilding it.
If it's rebuildable and you are doing it yourself, and are confident, by all means go for it.
For others a rebuilt longblock or bobtail engine is likely the better route.

Rod
 
Consider having the block and heads ultrasonically (or acid) cleaned to remove the rust/scale/mineral buildup in the water jacket.
 
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