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oil cooler lines

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bobct

Advanced Contributor
I'm getting hauled today and my #1 thing on the winter list is changing the oil/trans cooling hoses which are original to the boat.

I was going to change the oil as soon as the boat came out but wondering if I should wait until after I change the hoses. Or, should I just siphon all the oil and leave it empty until I do the work.

What do you guys think?

Also, what's the best way to change the hose? Should I remove each line including the fittings and change them on the bench or can these fittings be reinstalled in place?

Bob

P.S. - speaking of hoses, I finally solved my flo-scan nightmare. I replaced the original copper line going from the tank to the x-over valve with aeroquip flex line. I just did this yesterday otherwise it would have lingered until next season. It must have been a tiny air leak at either fitting.
 
If you use the push on type barb fittings for the 1/2" tranny hose, they can take a lot of force to insert. There was no way I could do that job on the engine. I used the blue aeroquip hose and hot water to soften / lube the hose a bit. The engine oil uses 5/8" hose.
 
thanks Dave, I hauled it yesterday and didn't change the oil. I'm right in front of the hose so I'm going to get some stuff done and winterize in about a month. In the meantime, I'm going to start working on the hose replacement. I'll remove them and bring them home.

I'm going to use the same aeroquip hose that you did with the barb fittings. Do you remember how much you needed for each engine?

Bob
 
This looks to me like a good thing to do this winter as well and I have not spent any time looking into it....SO....My thoughts 2 years ago when the drive dampner was changed was to go to the hydraulics guy we deal with at work and have him make new hoses up using the old ones as templates.

IF I read this correctly, you guys are using barb fitting and clamps on free lengths of hose?
 
Al, the aeroquip hose/fittings which are the original setup on Crusader are barb fittings but no clamps. Basically, you can replicate what you already have. I just ordered mine from Murdock Industries, about $190 shipped for 20' each of the above hose sizes (trans and oil). Doing it this way, you reuse all of the old fittings which should be fine.

I just hope there isn't some slight variation between Crusader setups and I'm 6" short :)
 
congrats on resolving the flo-scan 'wobble'.

DD's approach is consistent with my history. The only 'variations' I'm aware of are the gear configurations. I'm sure somebody with a parts book could give you the lengths for each application (if they are still listed in that book).

As far as the oil, I'd get the old stuff out while you can. MURPHY will visit you (he never misses an opportunity on a boat job) and it will likely be freezing if you don't get it out know. I think the pint or so you may loose is worth it to get the contaminated oil out now.
 
bobct said:
ok, I'm ordering 20' of FC-332-10 for the oil lines and FC-332-08 for the trans line (both engines).
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the stuff! Careful when/if you use a raser knife to cut off the old hose, since you don't want cuts into the brass fittings.
 
Not that I am surprised but MY hoses are fitted squeezed metal parts...some with a 90 degree sweep attached to the hoses. They use flare type fittings from the trans and oil cooler and some on the cooler are very odd shaped 45 degree fittings that are Crusader OEM .. I THINK. SO Now I gotta go look Oil lines.jpg You are saying that the fittings on hose 15 for example, are slip on?
 
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I recall having to buy a bunch of inverted flare brass push on fittings. You can't reuse the crimped type, and I would think they may be rusted steel anyway. Careful you don't deform the oil cooler, use two wrenches.
 
Hmmm, I didn't look that closely, I thought they were all brass push on fittings. I know the ones at the oil cooler are, I remember that when I changed the coolers.

I got all my new hose yesterday so I'll get going on this soon. I would like to get both sides done before it gets too cold.

Bob
 
I have oil lines to and from the engine, to the cooler and remote oil filter. I need to do these hoses too, since I skipped the replacement 2 years ago when I replaced the u coolers. Ofcourse I started leaking slight amounts from the hose at one of the engines.

Would that 20' include enough for the remote oil filters?

I have the brass push on fittings.
 
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My filters are at the back of the engine which I think is standard. Is that's considered "remote" I can let you know pretty soon.

Bob
 
My hose ends are definately crimped fittings on the hoses and have threaded female ends.....Time for a change. Always something
 
I grabbed the two longest oil lines off one engine last night. A little bit of a mess, I'll plan the oil capture a little better on the next one. I cut off the old brass fittings and slid the new hose on. If you have the brass fittings, it's a pretty easy job.... 10 mins a hose if that. I put the fitting in a vice and gave a few good pushes until it bottomed out.

If there was a way to clamp the fitting on board, you might be able to install a new section of hose underway if needede. My hoses were really stiff compared to the new stuff but were painted so I couldn't get a good visual from the outside.

Speaking of paint, now I'm thinking it would be a perfect time to touch up the old Crusaders while the hoses are removed.
 
Bob,
When I had re-done our top ends and had the blocks stripped down, I did use Crusader Paint to touch up as well as re-paint the intake manifold and cylinder heads even the valve covers. When it was re-assembled they looked like new installs. That was 3-4 years ago. While they still look very nice, there is a bit of rust reappearing in some places and with those parts out of the way, they job comes out nicely. My hoses are very stiff and heavily coated with paint. I will bet they are going to be difficult as some of those 90 degree sweep fittings are quite rusty.
 
Guys, I am thinking my slight oil leak (1/2 qrt a year) at the hose is most likly the hose or fitting, however I should know this for sure before I replace the hoses just to find out its leaking from the engine. What replaceables are the oil hoses attaching to at the engine? I have to bring my manual back from the boat next trip. Any tips to tracking down this seeping type leek?
 
slauder said:
Guys, I am thinking my slight oil leak (1/2 qrt a year) at the hose is most likly the hose or fitting, however I should know this for sure before I replace the hoses just to find out its leaking from the engine. What replaceables are the oil hoses attaching to at the engine? I have to bring my manual back from the boat next trip. Any tips to tracking down this seeping type leek?
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There is the remote oil filter adapter plate, that attaches to the block with one large or two smaller bolts, depending on year, and a 3" or so O ring. Two oil hoses come off of this.
 
diver_dave said:
There is the remote oil filter adapter plate, that attaches to the block with one large or two smaller bolts, depending on year, and a 3" or so O ring. Two oil hoses come off of this.
Click to expand...

Looks like I need to replace the O ring. The leak seems from the round plate. I'll address both hoses and the o ring after the season is over. Thanks again for your help. Fishing is still good in new york
 
Quick update for future searches:

I have one engine done - three oil lines and two trans lines. All the fittings on my setup ('88) are brass barbs. The oil lines slid on pretty easily, I even did the short one in place rather than remove the fittings (the one down near the oil filter).

The transmission lines were the hard part for a couple of reasons. No way could I slide them on in place. I had to remove both lines and bring them home and lock the fittings in a vice. With a heat gun and some force, they slid on. The other issue is access, especially on the Stb engine. The shorter of the two trans lines connects before the rear engine mount, down low. It's completely obstructed and very difficult to get wrench on plus there are two support brackets that the lines run through that you have to deal with.

The Port side should be easier. The oil lines are on the other side of the engine but I think access will be ok. It's hard not to make a mess so plan accordingly. If you're on the fence, just do it because you'll have the mess (x10) plus you'll be stranded if one splits underway. For less than $200, it's worth it.

Bob
 
Bob,

I don't know if you are in a position to do this BUT, might you be able to post a photo of what the fitting looks like? For some reason, mine are crimped fittings like hydraulic hoses and IF I am going to change them ( good advice you wrote there) I would like to know that I am getting the correct ones. It would seem to me, THAT without something to hold an oil line in place, with hot oil, stretch and a barb only fitting...it can slip right off. Since I know I do not really understand this connection, seeing it could help. If not...don't sweat it
 
Al, will do. I still have to do the port engine so maybe I'll put a short video link on youtube. I was thinking the same but there's no way these things can slip off.

You could always install a small hose clamp as well for piece of mind. A stainless steel fuel injection clamp would be a good choice. Great, now you have me thinking about it :)

Bob
 
Got both engines done, a couple of thoughts while it's fresh on my mind.

1) 20' for both engines (trans and oil) is enough. You could get away with a few feet less for the transmission hose but no big deal. Aeroquip FC-332-10 for the oil lines and FC-332-08 for the transmission.

2) As mentioned, the oil lines were very easy and I did those on the boat, removed the fittings first by slicing through to the barb, removing the old hose and pressing on the old fittings. There are two longs lines that run up to the oil cooler and one short one near the oil filter.

3) The transmission lines were MUCH harder. I had to bring those home, clamp in a vice and use a heat gun with a lot of force to get them on. No way you could do these on the boat. They get routed inside the fuel line, I made that mistake. On the top transmission fitting, connect the transmission end first before you connect to the oil cooler. Otherwise it'll be oriented the wrong way. I'm talking about the "easy one" on the trans. Once you get in there, there will be no mistaking the two :)

- The transmission lines were also a lot harder to remove/install. The lower connection to the transmission is really hard to get to and my boat has a 13' beam so access to everything else is usually pretty good. The other thing that's a pain are the two hose support clamps. I removed the one that connects to the front engine mount and painfully squeezed the hose/new fitting through the other one which I couldn't remove. The trans lines on the Stb engine were the worst in terms of access. There are two of these.

4) Keep track of where each line connects to on the oil cooler. You could easily mix-up the top/bottom connections. Make sure you support the oil cooler when tightening the fittings. You could easily break the fitting off the cooler, I slightly bent one of mine because I didn't have it tight enough while torquing the fitting.

My hoses were original at 23 years and hard as a rock. The transmission hose had more flex and probably would have lasted a little longer. The oil hose? Who knows? If you really don't want to proactively change them, at least order the hose and keep it on board. The oil lines could be done on the fly but you'll have a big mess and a hot engine to deal with. You'll also need to carry enough oil to replace what leaks.

The transmission lines... I think you're out of luck. I can't imagine trying to change those on the water. As mentioned, you need a vice and heat source in order to get the line over the barbs. In a pinch, you could probably get the hose 1/2 onto the fitting and throw a hose clamp on it.

Thanks to Diver Dave for posting the aeroquip part #'s and lengths a while ago.


Bob
 
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Bob,

Thanks for the step by step outline. I've printed it out and when I get on this job later in the winter, It is the top reference material hanging on the bulkhead.... Funny thing is that until you had brought up this topic, my assumption was that mine were factory. A bit of thought however reminds me that the PO had access to the Budwiser machine shop and virtually everything would have been within easy reach to make up when needed. Unfortunatley all of the small details were left un attended so I have spent the better part of 5 seasons re-doing the rest properly.
 
It would be great if you would keep us up-to-date on the hoses, say 20 to 40 hours later if it is not too much trouble. I am a bit concerned that if I do this I may not get the hose connections on correctly resulting in leaking. I miss having a garage workshop but do need to buy a vise.
 
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