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Oil Changes - frequency

dixon5553

New member
HI - so my question is simple, I only put on less than 30 hours on a 2004 5.0 Mercrusier this year - with this low hours is it really necessary to change the oil for the annual winterization project, It was changed last fall during the winterization. The powertrain only has 144 hours total on a 2004 MY unit. And any suggestions for good pumps to drain the oil with - thanks,.
R Dixon
NOVI, MI
 
Harbor Freight sells some decent extraction pumps- on is $99 if you're not an Inside Track member, $79 if you are. At that price, it's worth changing the oil and filter more often just because you aren't paying the dealer price.

I don't like leaving oil in a crankcase. It's acidic when it's new but if it has other components from combustion, that's another reason to be cautious.
 
Actually the less that you use it the more likely that you get condensation and fuel dilution in the motor oil. Also raw water cooled inboards tend to run quite cool increasing the chances of both of these issues. I always change mine in the fall regardless of hrs.
 
I have the Topsider mine is about 20 years old and still works great. I use it on everything, marine engines, auto transmissions, differentials etc.
 
HI - so my question is simple, I only put on less than 30 hours on a 2004 5.0 Mercrusier this year - with this low hours is it really necessary to change the oil for the annual winterization project, It was changed last fall during the winterization. The powertrain only has 144 hours total on a 2004 MY unit. And any suggestions for good pumps to drain the oil with - thanks,.
R Dixon
NOVI, MI
Ayuh,..... Do it every fall,......... regardless the hours,....
 
Ayuh,..... Do it every fall,......... regardless the hours,....
This . Have done this for 40 maintaining my boats and previously helping my grandfather as a kid. Never had an engine failure. Will outlast the boat.

I use a Mytivac vacuum extractor , had a harbor freight that didn’t last for chit have one mytivac at the lake one at home should have bought it years ago
 
If you understand 4-cycle combustion (any combustion) engine is the reason why I don't understand the question. $40 is in relation to damaged/destroyed engine. I have OCD and in the Fall I pull the 5.0 mag pan drain hose out the 2004 boat drain to get every drop. The PWC I'm forced to use the Mytivac.
 
If you understand 4-cycle combustion (any combustion) engine is the reason why I don't understand the question. $40 is in relation to damaged/destroyed engine. I have OCD and in the Fall I pull the 5.0 mag pan drain hose out the 2004 boat drain to get every drop. The PWC I'm forced to use the Mytivac.

Well, if you have that much time to waste, fine, but it's not possible to "get every last drop", so pumping is a much more efficient way. I could see pumping most of it and using gravity if I really wanted to get more out, but unless the oil is known to have a lot of water or other contaminants, using a pump works just fine. If it has water or other stuff, change it, run it and change it again. The cost of 5-6 qts of oil and a filter is less than $40.
 
I have never, ever, ever changed any fluids when winterizing any boats unless asked to or unless water is found in outdrive.

I have had my 1987 since 1995 and have never had an issue and I live in NewEngland so boat sits from November to April/May.

With regards to outdrive and after replacing hundreds of upper carrier seals in the spring, changing your outdrive gear oil in the fall while winterizing has little value as you have no idea what the state of the seals and orings are the following season. In the spring Drain gear lube and pressure check and if OK refill.

If you were speaking about LONG term storage then yes, drain engine oil and refill. But over the winter.....not in my opinion....
 
I would look at and smell the oil before changing- if it looks cloudy, it probably has water in it (compare with new oil first) and if it smells like gasoline, it might not be a bad idea to change it and find out why it smells of gas in Spring before taking it out of storage.

While these engines aren't so fragile that one bad incident will always kill them, I would recommend being careful with newly-acquired used boats- what the seller says is often a load of BS. It may look good, but hidden problems are common and I say this as someone who underestimated the degree to which the previous owner abused the engine and as someone who has serviced hundreds of used and even one-owner boats. Somehow, details are forgotten and omitted when asked.
 
thanks eveyone for your input - your comments just confirmed what I was planning on doing and have done at the end of every boat season here in Michigan - chance the oil/filter and drain the cooling system and re fill with antifreeze.
 
I change my oil when it starts looking dirty, cheap insurance. IMO, No matter how many hours ran or not ran, you should change your oil once a year. Condensation and atmospheric moisture get into oil while it sits. Many auto manufacturers (Benz) for one, have the change reminder at one year if miles are not met.
 
I change my oil when it starts looking dirty, cheap insurance. IMO, No matter how many hours ran or not ran, you should change your oil once a year. Condensation and atmospheric moisture get into oil while it sits. Many auto manufacturers (Benz) for one, have the change reminder at one year if miles are not met.
Benze is auto, NOT boats and NOT GM.

Has no relevence!!!!!
 
thanks eveyone for your input - your comments just confirmed what I was planning on doing and have done at the end of every boat season here in Michigan - chance the oil/filter and drain the cooling system and re fill with antifreeze.

If you as the Boat owner, and want to do your own work, do as you choose based on all the conspirary theories on Youtube and from many here.

Oil changes is one thing, but what I have said about outdrive gearlube/service is from over 30 + yrs experience on hundreds of boats.. NOT based on my boat alone.

Use this as you want, the results will reflect that decision.
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