Logo
FULL SITE MENU

odd solonoid problem chrysler 318 inboard

S

silverton31c

New member
ok so here is my dilema I will try to be as specific as I can I went to start my silverton 31c with twin 318 inboards this morning and previous owner had changed the battery cable between the solonoid and the starter well it was not up to snuff and it fried I replaced the battery cable with one twice the diameter and with good soldered and shrink wrapped ends the solonoid would not work after this it did get extremely hot during the cable problem so I replaced it with a 18-5836 marine solonoid now the solonoid still didnt work by the key. I jumped the ( S ) pole on the solonoid to the battery using a jump switch and*the solonoid*engaged and the starter engaged as it should now here is the interesting part it will not fire by the key ( there is 12v at the yellow and red wire when you turn the key and 12v at the ignition ( I ) on the solonoid.* also when the key is in the run position* ( not start) the solonoid will not engage via jump switch*but when the key is in the off position it will. I removed the ignition wire (purple and white) *from the* ( I ) pole on the solonoid and no change turn the key off and it jumps fine. I tested all wires for continuity to ground and there was no reading on any wire other than the black ground wire that is attached to the solonoid mounting bracket. all conections are clean and tight. Batteries are fully charged and load test at 11 volts engine is free and runs fine. Is there a specific side of the solonoid that the battery + side cable has to be attached to? this solonoid is a sierra marine part there is no load or amp draw issues. The ignition switch/neutral safety*is also working fine as the yellow and red wire going to the ( S ) pole is reading 12v I got the engine to start and continue running by jumping the solonoid and having a friend turn on the ignition switch while the engine was turning. Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is either the battery cables have to be reversed or the solonoid requires a higher amperage than the wire going to the ignition from the solonoid can deliver?
thanks in advance
keith
 
THat motor has a ballast resistor circuit. While cranking, one of the terminals on the solenoid sends 12 volts directly to the coil. When running, this circuit is not in use, and 9 volts (through the resistor) goes to the coil instead. THe (dopey) theory is that this set up makes for a hotter spark when starting.

Here's what to do:

1. Put a volt meter on both of the terminals opn the solenoid and hit the starting switch. If you don't see at least 9 or more volts on each there the ignition switch or wirng to/ from it is bad.

2. Turn the ignition ON and check the voltage at "+" terminal of the coil. You must see at least 7 to 9 volts there.

3. Crank the motor over and check the voltage at the coil as you do. You must see at least 10 to 12 volts.


If the above is not true, replace the solenoid and find out where the voltage is going.

Jeff
 
Thats it has voltage at b+ all the time and 12v at the solonoid when you turn the key to the start position 9v @ the coil but the solonoid only engages with key off
 
Back
Top