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o-rings keep blowing!

8

805HD

Regular Contributor
Okay guys I got a trim pump that will not stop blowing o-rings.. This is the old style “non clear reservoir” pump, the one with two lines. It’s out of my 1978 sea ray.

I have rebuilt the pump several times since I’ve had the boat. It will work for a while then pssssssst! A o-ring will blow and oil goes everywhere. I’ve tried multiple o-rings from OEM to the hardware store always with the same result. The unit will last a few weekends and then blow again. (Always when raising the drive)

The trim cylinders have been rebuilt and no air or water is entering the system. Am I missing something here? Reverse lockout play a roll in this?

Thanks in advance!!
 
Guessing you mean the valve body under the res container.Yes ,the reverse lockout plays a very important part. It locks the drive down when in fwd so it dosent jump up in reverse. Thats why the shift linkage is connected to it.Trying to push 2200 psi into a blocked off like that does blow those rings out
 
Bt Doctur said:
Guessing you mean the valve body under the res container.Yes ,the reverse lockout plays a very important part. It locks the drive down when in fwd so it dosent jump up in reverse. Thats why the shift linkage is connected to it.Trying to push 2200 psi into a blocked off like that does blow those rings out
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply, I understand the fucnction of the reverse lockout valve was just curious if it not functioning properly could be the root of my problem. Maybe I’m not understanding you correctly?
 
The reverse lock valve locks the drive down by stopping the oil flow to the pistons when in fwd gear. If the valve is not adjusted correctly the pump cannot push the oil into the cylinders to raise the drive. If the drive cannot be raised the 2200 psi pressure has to go someplace and that place is out the rings
 
Bt Doctur said:
The reverse lock valve locks the drive down by stopping the oil flow to the pistons when in fwd gear. If the valve is not adjusted correctly the pump cannot push the oil into the cylinders to raise the drive. If the drive cannot be raised the 2200 psi pressure has to go someplace and that place is out the rings
Click to expand...

This makes sense.. thank you for the knowledge!

The pump definitely labors while raising the drive, seems to move slower then I remember it when the boat was “new” I’ll look into making sure that reverse lockout valve is properly adjusted.

Fingers crossed
 

Hey thanks for the image that stuff really does help, especially since there are a million different ones out there. I have my Seloc manual and now have a decent understanding of what I’m dealing with.

Couple questions while I got your attention, will the adjustment of the reverse lockout effect the adjustment of my shift cables? And am I making these adjustments with my shift cables connected or disconnected?

The reverse lockout valve has always seeped oil so I plan on pulling the whole thing to replace those o-rings inside it. As it sits on the boat the adjustment has it farthest line from the triangle.

Thanks again, really wouldn’t be boating if it wasn’t for you and all these other knowledgeable gentlemen. 🍻
 
I would think you adjust the shift cables first ,then adjust the reverse valve see #1
Probably better of by using the newer rams and trim pump that way you can remove the lockout valve
 
Last edited:
Bt Doctur said:
I would think you adjust the shift cables first ,then adjust the reverse valve see #1
Probably better of by using the newer rams and trim pump that way you can remove the lockout valve
Click to expand...

Got it. I’ve considered upgrading to the newer rams and pump but the plan is to sell the ole girl end of summer so I don’t want to spend the money if I don’t have to.

I now see that once loosened the adjustment for the reverse lockout can be made separately, without moving the arm that the shift cables attach to. This is where I was confused. Makes sense now.
 
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