Logo
FULL SITE MENU

No wot

T

timbo

New member
HI I HAVE A 1985 150 THE POWER

HI I HAVE A 1985 150 THE POWER HEAD HAS BEEN REBUILT AND THE CARBS GONE THROUGH. THE PROBLEM IS IT WILL NO RUN OVER 2000 TO 2500 RPM IN WATER SITTING OUT OF WATERR IT REVS FINE DOES THIS YEAR HAVE A SLOW MODE AND HOW WOULD I CHECK IT
 
IF YOU'VE RUN IT OUT OF WA

IF YOU'VE RUN IT OUT OF WATER THEN NO DOUBT THE IMPELLER IS TOAST WHICH MEANS IT'S OVERHEATING AND THEREFORE THE SLOW IS KICKING IN...

Man... those caps are really annoying huh? No need to shout... MOST of us aren't hard of hearing... ;)
 
"Check compression (100&#4

"Check compression (100+), check spark (7/16"). If all is okay here, probably fouled carburetors. Let us know what you find.

NEVER run those engine out of the water."
 
Thanks but when I said out of

Thanks but when I said out of the water it was hooked up to muffs. It has plenty of spark and the carbs were rebuilt it was doing this before carbs were done. I am not getting any alarms. It will idle fine and no overheating. Compression is fine was checked when carbs were rebuilt. Does the power packs have slow made build in to them.


R.U SIRIUS IF MY TYPING OFFENDS YOU READ SOMETHING ELSE!!!!!!
 
"Tim... I didn't say your

"Tim... I didn't say your typing offended me... Rather it annoyed me... Try sitting down and reading a book sometime that is ALL in capital letters... Capital and lowercase letters exist for a reason, it's only polite to use them as intended.

It's no different than if I had "rpd bk n txt spk n trd 2 hlp wit wrdz lik dis". You would have found it extremely annoying to try to read what I was saying if I had... Again, words have proper spelling for a reason... To make them easy to read...

Now, on to your problem...

I'd guess that it definately has something to do with overheating and the slow function...

You said it's not overheating... Why? Have you checked the head temp with a good probe or wax pens? What was the temp?

As for why it would run on the muffs, remember that muffs are "pressurizing" the system.. They are forcing water into and through the cooling channels without any pump action at all. When you're in actual water, you're relying completely on the water pump... If it's not working then you'll overheat...

If it were me I'd start by pulling the lower and inspecting the waterpump. For no more than it costs I'd just rebuild it while you had it off."
 
"Tim, let us get it all the ri

"Tim, let us get it all the right way.
What You say is that UNLOADED the engine revs without problem. boat launched or on muffs?
In gear (loaded) the max rpm is 2000-2500 rpm?

The SLOW mode limits engine revs to about 2500. You may test by grounding the brown FROM power pack to either of the temp switches. Don't do this with engine on muffs!

And use of CAPS LOCK is not a proper way on any forum."
 
'They are forcing water in

'They are forcing water into and through the cooling channels without any pump action at all.'

Only if You have lost all the wings on the impeller and the muffs are tightly bolted to avoid leakage!

Anyway muffs are ONLY for flushing engine after salt water use. If 'testing' use at least a barrel with water level similar to that when launched to get the back pressure right.
 
"i worked at a dealership ,and

"i worked at a dealership ,and one of the younger guys,had done a new wtr imp on a 80's v4--could'nt get water flow.,on muffs,..after helping him,i finally told him to pull the lower unit,and lets look at the imp....he had knocked the key out,upon inst...sooo,there,my point is,..there is no way,muffs,are gonna get water to powerhead and 'pressurize' it...the wtr pressure,simply assists the imp."
 
"I believe my statement was mi

"I believe my statement was misintepreted... When I said, "without any pump action at all", I didn't mean that the pump wasn't TURNING at all... As in, you could hook it up without even having the motor running and it would pump water through...

What I meant was that it's entirely possible that without the muffs (And therefore pressurized intake side of waterpump) the waterpump / impeller could be so shot that it wouldn't pump any water (or at least not enough to properly cool)... YET, with muffs installed the same waterpump could easily "pump" water through the system... It's not really "pumping" (as it's pressurized) it's really just "letting it past", hence "no pump action at all"...

Sorry for the confusion..."
 
"i now understand,..ur stateme

"i now understand,..ur statement.....however............being the great,..conversationalist,..that i love to be............if an imp,....is so,burnt,bad/blades thrown......and i see this....ea and every day....not always bad ..bad...but,i'm just saying.....if that imp is bad..its bad.....u have so much leakage,around the muffs,..there is no way,...muffs r helping that much..........in fact...it is my opinion...........that it is of no use...when u hook it to a burnt imp ,...trying to get wtr pr to pwrhd............but..........just 32 yrs of learning..."
 
"Getting back to the issue, Ti

"Getting back to the issue, Tim has a problem that exists only when the engine is warmed up and under load. With the muffs on and cold water running through the engine, it may not get to an overheat situation.

From the advice that is usually given by Mort, jwb and Joe, one would question, like Tim, as to whether this engine has a SLOW mode or not. That was the original question. Should he disconnect the heat sensor wire, if one exists on this engine and try that?

I am no mechanic, but it seems that somewhere, someone mislead the original problem.

As for the caps, the new wave computer "geeks" propose that using caps is the same as yelling. For one that is hearing impaired, as well as having visual impairments, it is at times, refreshing to read something in big bold letters which are easier to read. That is why some books are printed in LARGE PRINT.

One other "twist"-it is hard accept the comments from one called R U Sirius, legitamate or not. Nobody likes to be spoke down to when reaching out for help, and yes, I am serious.

I don't wish to get into a p i s s i n g match, but only wish to get the string back on track and help a fellow boater."
 
"i would say no...i will ck on

"i would say no...i will ck on it....no slow mode on a 85.,not on a 85,.......i may be wrong..."
 
"so,..if he has an overheat pr

"so,..if he has an overheat prob,he SHOULD have gotten a hot horn,...(which,is ck'ed,at a prof shop,during tune up,last time?)..no hot horn,...hot siezure setting in...i WILL ck on the 85 slow....dont think so......."
 
"Murray: At what point did I

"Murray: At what point did I ever talk down to anyone?

In fact, if you look at my orignal comment: "Man... those caps are really annoying huh? No need to shout... MOST of us aren't hard of hearing... ;)"

Look at the end... "No need to shout... MOST of us aren't hard of hearing... ;)" That's a humorous statement if I've ever seen one... "hard of hearing" on an internet forum? Not to mention the smiley... Apparently some folks woke up on the wrong side of the bed and failed to see the humour.

252848.jpg
out of reach"">

Frankly on most "forums" out there, this guy would have been ripped to shreds for posting all in caps like that... I simply made light of the situation... Informing him that it wasn't "proper" while at the same time introducing a little humour...

The reply back was: "R.U SIRIUS IF MY TYPING OFFENDS YOU READ SOMETHING ELSE!!!!!!"

Seriously?!?

252849.jpg
jim carrey"">

Still though, I could have completely went off tangent... I could have attacked back or whatever... Instead I simply explained the situation by giving examples of why some people find it very annoying and then PROCEEDED to give more advice and try to help him solve his problem...

And on another note... You said: "it is hard accept the comments from one called R U Sirius, legitamate or not."

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at here... Are you saying that simply because my username has some "humour" in it, people won't take my advice? Or are you trying to say that simply because my username has "humour" you find it hard to read my comments? Either way seems a bit odd...

One last comment... You said: "I don't wish to get into a p i s s i n g match, but only wish to get the string back on track and help a fellow boater."

Now THAT my friend is humorous... You specifically state you DON'T want to get in a p i s s i n g match, and ONLY want to get the thread back on track... YET you insert a comment (above) specifically targeting my "username" of all things...

252850.jpg
i see it"">

It had absolutely nothing to do with the thread, or even anything else that had been mentioned in the thread thus far... Yet your intentions were only to get the thread back on track?!? Hardly...

I came to this forum originally seeking help... and the fine folks here provided that. Throughout my own experience I learned a lot and figured I'd try to repay the favor by helping out others on here when I could...

If my username "bothers" you, if my humor aggravates you, if my "call it like I see it" attitude offends you, and if my attempted assistance of others on this forum is neither appreciated or wanted, then for goodness sakes just tell me or lock my account or delete it or something and I'll go on my merry way..."
 
"The 150 cross flow never had

"The 150 cross flow never had S.L.O.W so you need to isolate the problem...back to basics fuel,electrical,mechanical."
 
"Murray , Right on brother , I

"Murray , Right on brother , I educate my self just looking at this forum Guy's jumping to conclusion text book style, I will not elaborate on and placing the cart in front of the bull solutions.
Basally lecturing the guy on a proper use of a muff etc.
Simply answer the question SLOW installed on this model or not ?
My answer no.
My thoughts ?
Install an external tank pre-mix your fuel and connect directly via primer bulb and filter this will isolate fuel issue.
If the above failed do a complete and simple electrical test I have the PDF with detailed instructions.
In closing we are not placing a man on the moon here
"
 
Back
Top