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No spark after replacing run kill switch - 2005 Merc 60HP 2-Stroke

TJP

New member
Hello All,

I have a 2005 Mercury 60HP 2-stroke Bigfoot with Commander 2000 Side Mount Remote Control (Power Trim/Tilt Electric Start with Warning Horn. I have a no spark condition. I can disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the motor and I have spark. I just replaced the run/kill switch with a new QUICKSILVER OEM replacement switch thinking this would resolve the issue still no spark. Once I disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the motor I have spark again.

1st Question:
Any ideas where I should trouble shoot next?

2nd Question:
If I leave the Black/yellow wire at the motor disconnected if I start the motor will I be able to kill the motor from the ignition switch without this safety feature? Currently I have a Spark Plug grounded to the block to see if I get spark. I have not tried to start the motor completely.
 
Yes kill switch is on side mount remote control. Lanyard is in place. This is a simple up down toggle switch.
 
Let us know when you find the short in the kill circuit. Be careful it takes a split second shorting battery pos to the black/yellow wire to cook the PP.
 
PP? Are you saying Power Pack? If the Power Pack was "Cooked" would I be getting a spark with the Black/Yellow wire bullet connector disconnected? If I choose to remove/bypass this circuit by disconnecting the run/kill switch Black or Ground lead in the Commander Control can I still kill the motor by turning the key to the off position?

Little more detail to my problem. I have a brand new cranking battery so I know I don't have a low voltage condition. I think I caused this issue when I removed the ignition switch and took it to Bass Pro to get new keys as I had lost my keys. When I re-installed the ignition I made a mistake in connecting the bullet connectors. I connected the YELLOW/BLACK wire (Which controls the push button choke) to the Black/Yellow wire of the kill circuit and vice versa for the Run/Kill switch. When I turned over the motor the 20amp fuse on the motor turned over at first then blew the fuse. After replacing the fuse then the motor turned over. I noticed the push button choke would not "Click". I then opened back up the Commander control and noticed that I had wired the kill circuit to the choke and the choke to the kill circuit. I corrected the connection issue and now I have this issue. I tested the new and the old Run/Kill switch with multi meter and found that they are both operating correctly via continuity ohms test.

I would like to replace whatever is bad however I'm at a loss to what is wrong? So my thought is if I bypass the kill circuit by disconnecting it from the ground will the motor turn off by the key? If not could I use a battery disconnect switch installed on the negative side of the Cranking Battery and use that to kill the motor or will that have an adverse effect.
 
Disconnect the battery and the powerpack and use your ohm meter to find where the short is coming from. Yes you should be able to disconnect the lanyard switch and check for spark if so the switch is bad.
 
Im new to outboards i got a boat on the cheap 17ft bass tracker xt with a 45hp mercury i have power from stator to switch box if i run the voltameter from coil side hot to battery ground i get volts but when i connect grounds from coils back on block no volts im stumped i tried disconnecting the yellow/black wire but no luck
 
Im new to outboards i got a boat on the cheap 17ft bass tracker xt with a 45hp mercury i have power from stator to switch box if i run the voltameter from coil side hot to battery ground i get volts but when i connect grounds from coils back on block no volts im stumped i tried disconnecting the yellow/black wire but no luck
it is not polite to hyjack someone elses thread start your own in the mercury forum!
 
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