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no green light

G

grapeguy

New member
Hi all,
just put my 15'1995 boston whaler with a Honda 2007 50HP 4 stroke with 30 hrs on it into the water. Ran around in fine shape and came home. Talked to a friend and he said the green warning light was not on when the engine was running and it should be on all the time.
Felt stupid as it was news to me that the light was supposed to be on. I checked the fuses in the engine and they were fine. The water was pissing good the whole ride. the engine did not get hot.
I took a test light with the ign sw on and checked for power at both red and green lights. The red had a light and the green did not. That's where I am now. Where do I go now?
I have the ign sw on the dashboard of the ctr console. Cant think of anything else to say about it. Can anyone help me save the big bucks I will have to pay to have this electrical problem fixed?
 
Are you warning lights in the key switch assy or are they in a round 2" gauge that has 4 lights in it?

I am assuming that since it is a 2007, that the motor is fuel injected and has 4 warning lights.

When you turn the key switch to on, do all of the lights come on for 2 seconds?

Also, if the oil light is in the round two inch gauge (with 4 lights), the oil light normally burns very dim and is really hard to see.....practically impossible in the sun.

Mike
 
The switch plate is about 3 inches square,
ot has the ignition switch, kill switch,a red light for oil and a green light for overheat.
The engine is carbureted. The engine runs great! The stream of water is strong... But the green light has no power to the red wire. The other wire is black. I would like to know where in the engine is the sensor for the light located.
i have just been to 2 dealers to see if I could pick a mechanics brain for a simple" here is the location of the sensor", but that is not happening.
A shop manual is $300 I hear. That is not going to happen this year as my wife has given stern parameters on spending for the boat.
 
A few facts....the lights will not come on when you turn your key switch to on. That only applies to fuel injected motors.

....the green light should be on when the motor is running to indicate good oil pressure ( not the red). The red indicates an overheat.

Your oil pressure switch is just below your overheat switch. Both are above and to the right of your oil filter.

The yellow lead goes to the oil pressure switch. The red lead goes to the overheat switch.

When there is no oil pressure, there is a ground at the oil pressure switch. When there is oil pressure, the ground goes away.

One the other hand, there is an open circuit at the overheat switch when temperature is normal. When there is an overheat, there will be a ground at the overheat switch.

If the ground never goes away from the oil pressure switch, remove the switch and clean the small hole with some brakekleen or similar solvent. Make sure that the hole that it goes in is not plugged up with goo. Apply a little sealant to the threads when you reinstall it.

If you need a wiring diagram, there should be one at the back of the owner's manual. You can download one for free from Honda http://marine.honda.com/support/manuals/models/BF50

If you are looking for a repair manual, Honda sells them on Amazon. $72.95 http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Marine-...3G8S/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A14VJQOXKKYWSY

Hope that helps some.

Mike
 
Thanks so much! You have been more than helpful and have answered all my questions.
Though retired, my handle is grape guy for a reason. I have a lot of years in the wine business. More than happy to provide advice and recommendations for wine if you have ever need. I will let you know how I make out on my problem.
 
Hi there,
thank you once again for trying to help me solve this problem.
i just need to verify a point in your directions.
When you said,"your oil pressure switch is just below your overheat switch.....
In gong through the check out, I find the oil switch with a yellow single wire attached, is above, not below he other switch which I have determined to be the temperature (overheat)switch .
i took out both switches and the top one is the oil sector and the bottom. Temp switch.(with more than one wife attached. I checked the continuity of the temperature switch and found full conductivity when checking with red lead on one pin and the black on the other.
i heated up some water at first to very hot and then for a second test , to just starting to boil.
as the water got hotter conductivity got slightly better.
i then tried an ice cube on the switch and saw just a bare movement to less conductive. The switch seems to be indicating that the engine is running the even though the engine is not running not the wire connected to it(yellow) is not connected.
seems to me the switch is suspect. I plan on going to a parts store and seeing if I can check a good switch. If it behaves differently I guess the problem could be the switch.
Does that make sense or am I really missing something?
Grapeguy





w
 
Sorry for the mistake on the positions.....at least you found them.

The temperature sensor should measure somewhere around 8k ohm at 32 deg F (0 deg C) and a little over 100 ohm at 212 deg F (100 deg C)

It is not a switch (on or off)....its resistance varies with temperature. Most likely this is ok.....the red light should not light unless there is an overheat.

If you measure the resistance on the oil pressure switch....when the engine is not running, the resistance should be 0 (zero) between the terminal where the yellow lead connects and ground. Be sure to remove the yellow lead for the test.

When there is oil pressure that same terminal to ground will measure as an open circuit. If it does not, remove the switch and clean the little hole in it with some solvent and make sure that the hole that it screws in to is not blocked by debris.

Mike
 
Thanks, Mike
Used to work on BMW's and Mercedes as well as most sport cars. Knew my stuff back then(70's)
As time goes by you forget a lot of basic stuff. Once you get back into doing this stuff, it starts to come back as ah hah's! Thanks for putting up with my fumbling around.
looks like o gave to talk my wife into letting me get a manual for $72.00
otherwise I am doomed to stumbling around.
i see and understand what you said about the temp sensor. It also looks brand new as well as the oill sender.
must be in the wiring. Do those bulbs just blow like regular lights or are they usually free from trouble? I ask this because it seems as though they are not meant to be changed. I have not tried to get that whole ignition/ kill switch/warning light assembly out of the ctr console dashboard as yet. The space to work is not good in that thing. Thought that would be last resort and that I would find a wire, plug it in to power, and that would be that.
i will do he yellow wire test and see what I have.
Dick
 
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