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No getting fully on plane

T

tfish60

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1987 48 SPL, compression 151 148 psi. spark 1/2 gap blue color, carbs cleaned with new kits, float drop within specs 1 1/8" to 1 5/8" new fuel hose, primer bulb from tank to engine, fuel pump rebuilt with new kit due to leaks. Engine idles good, runs up to about 1/2 throttle, almost on top of the water, give it a bit more gas, and it falls completely off.
 
Has it ever hit a rock? Log? Check Racers suggestion, might be it. Do you rent out that compression gauge? Talk about nice numbers........
 
timguy said:
Has it ever hit a rock? Log? Check Racers suggestion, might be it. Do you rent out that compression gauge? Talk about nice numbers........
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yes, I tangled with a stump. Reverse gear started chattering every time I put it in reverse. So I put a complete gear set,seals, water pump, cleaned the carbs etc. I will definitely be pulling the flywheel next couple days checking the key. It does idle really good. Thanks for all the help
 
tfish60 said:
I changed my primer bulb and fuel line from tank to engine. That helped, just not there yet. I wondering if the fuel pump is not able to supply at WOT. I put a kit in it because it was leaking.
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So changing hose and primer makes the tank good?
 
Rwbutler said:
So changing hose and primer makes the tank good?
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I am sorry been away for a while. Yes I put a new tank in as well, pulled flywheel, key looked good. No evidence of slipping. The problem seems to be top carb, or link and sync issue. Top carb is lean, visibly less fuel spraying into the carb throat, while in water running. Fuel lines have no air in them. As soon as the throttle plates begin to open, it Boggs or falls on her face. Sprayed a small bit of carb cleaner into top carb rpm shot up couple of seconds. Pulled the carbs back off checked float settings good, needle seating properly, seat installed correctly with nylon washer, no blockage, nothing in high speed jet in bottom of bowl, pulled the air bleed orifice clean. Pulled core plug on top of Carb, checked tiny orifices there, ran plenty of air and carb cleaner through. Same with emulsion tube. While running checked for vacuum leaks. Still having problems though, I noticed my timer base arm begins moving, a good bit before throttle plates begin to move. The throttle plates are in sync, and the WOT stop set with carb pins vertical. On the top of carb on the left side (looking towards the front of boat) there i (was) a screen. It looks like a vent for the float bowl. While blowing the top carb that screen came out I not able to find it, would that be a problem?
 
timguy said:
Well that's half the problem....maybe.
Click to expand...


I am sorry been away for a while. Yes I put a new tank in as well, pulled flywheel, key looked good. No evidence of slipping. The problem seems to be top carb, or link and sync issue. Top carb is lean, visibly less fuel spraying into the carb throat, while in water running. Fuel lines have no air in them. As soon as the throttle plates begin to open, it Boggs or falls on her face. Sprayed a small bit of carb cleaner into top carb rpm shot up couple of seconds. Pulled the carbs back off checked float settings good, needle seating properly, seat installed correctly with nylon washer, no blockage, nothing in high speed jet in bottom of bowl, pulled the air bleed orifice clean. Pulled core plug on top of Carb, checked tiny orifices there, ran plenty of air and carb cleaner through. Same with emulsion tube. While running checked for vacuum leaks. Still having problems though, I noticed my timer base arm begins moving, a good bit before throttle plates begin to move. The throttle plates are in sync, and the WOT stop set with carb pins vertical. On the top of carb on the left side (looking towards the front of boat) there i (was) a screen. It looks like a vent for the float bowl. While blowing the top carb that screen came out I not able to find it, would that be a problem?
 
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