Newcomer Motor Questions

[GollyWhopper93]

Hey guys,

I recently acquired my granddad's wooden 14' boat which he hand-built in the mid-80s and it has a 1985 Johnson 30 HP 2-stroke outboard (J30 TEL COA). It has been in storage (inside a barn) for the past 23 years and my bother and I are currently trying to get it water worthy once again. As I am new to the boating ownership deal, I wanted to ask you all on your input about inspecting the motor and any significant points to check or replace before getting it running again. I have worked on motors before (2-stroke and 4-stroke) but don't have any experience with boat motors. I currently have the following plans.

New:
-Fuel Lines
-Fuel Tank
-Battery
-Spark Plugs
-Spark Plug Wires

Rebuild Kits:
-Carburetor
-Fuel Pump
-Water Pump

We've checked compression and it was reading around 90-100psi so from what I can find this is about normal for this motor and a good sign. Is there anything else that I am missing that needs to be checked or replaced? I've also read a little about checking the prop and prop seal, is this probably crucial considering the motor is 30 years old at this point?

Thanks in advance for your help, I really appreciate it as this boat means a lot to my brother and I!

-GollyWhopper93

 

[kevinj]

granddad's wooden 14' boat which he hand-built in the mid-80s

I would expect the hull to leak quite a bit until the wood swells and closes the board seams. No biggie, that's just what wooden boats do.

1985 Johnson 30 HP 2-stroke outboard (J30 TEL COA)....in storage (inside a barn) for the past 23 years

New:
-Fuel Lines
-Fuel Tank
-Battery
-Spark Plugs
-Spark Plug Wires

Rebuild Kits:
-Carburetor
-Fuel Pump
-Water Pump

New battery, Fuel line and spark plugs -- yes.
Carb, fuel, and water pump rebuild kits -- yes.

Spark plug wires might not be necessary. With a new, charged battery use an air gap spark tester and see if the spark will jump a 7/16" gap. If so there's no need for new plug wires. If not, you'll need to dig a little to find the culprit.

Unless rust is very evident in the old metal fuel tank there is probably no need to replace it. I would definitely replace the tank-to-engine hose and primer bulb. Empty any fuel that's in the tank. Now take some kerosene and swish around in the tank then empty the contents into a glass jar. If there are a bunch of rust pieces in the jar it's probably not worth messing with the old tank. If it's clean, outside of some old fuel sludge, then the tank is probably fine to use.

We've checked compression and it was reading around 90-100psi so from what I can find this is about normal for this motor and a good sign.

Did you spray fogging oil in the spark plug holes and into the carb throats prior to cranking the engine for compression test? It's a really good idea to get some kind of lube in the crankcase after setting for that long. It's quite possible the crank, rod, and piston bearings have little if any oil left coating them.

Is there anything else that I am missing that needs to be checked or replaced?

I believe this motor will have a water tell-tale. It's quite possible a small spider or other critter has decided to call that tube home during the years of storage. When you start the motor after water pump replacement you might need to run a piece of weed whacker string or something similar into the tube to dislodge any blockages.

Thanks in advance for your help, I really appreciate it as this boat means a lot to my brother and I!

That's great. Things from grandpa, whether hand built or bought can mean a whole lot especially when memories are tied to them.

KJ

 

[GollyWhopper93]

I would expect the hull to leak quite a bit until the wood swells and closes the board seams. No biggie, that's just what wooden boats do.

I'm expecting the boat to leak a lot at first haha. Might help if I find that missing plug too!

Unless rust is very evident in the old metal fuel tank there is probably no need to replace it. I would definitely replace the tank-to-engine hose and primer bulb. Empty any fuel that's in the tank. Now take some kerosene and swish around in the tank then empty the contents into a glass jar. If there are a bunch of rust pieces in the jar it's probably not worth messing with the old tank. If it's clean, outside of some old fuel sludge, then the tank is probably fine to use.

I'll definitely check this out! If we can use the old can, that'll save a good bit of money. I'll also keep the fogging oil in mind when we do eventually go to start it, I agree that there might not be any oil coating on the internals after so long.

I believe this motor will have a water tell-tale. It's quite possible a small spider or other critter has decided to call that tube home during the years of storage. When you start the motor after water pump replacement you might need to run a piece of weed whacker string or something similar into the tube to dislodge any blockages.

Thanks for this one. Never would have known that. Hopefully we don't run into anything weed whacker string or compressed air cant solve. Where exactly would this tell-tale be located? Or a general area at least?

That's great. Things from grandpa, whether hand built or bought can mean a whole lot especially when memories are tied to them.

KJ

Unfortunately my granddad passed away with I was young so I don't have any memories with him or the boat. But from everything I've heard from family and friends, he was a character and this boat and the water were very special to him. And the fact that he crafted it himself makes it that much more special to me. So I'm looking forward to connecting with him and making memories of my own soon!

Thanks again for your help and suggestions! They are greatly appreciated.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Fog the motor before firing it up. Get a can of fogging oil and pull the spark plug wires off and hold the carb open and spray fogging oil in the carb as you have someone turn the motor over. It for sure needs a impeller but for now fill the tank with fresh gas at 50:1 oil mix in it. Put the motor in a barrel of water pump the carb full of fuel until the primer bulb gets hard. push the choke and see if it fires up. I normally just pull the gearbox and see if I can get the motor running first that way you dont need water just dont let it get hot. The motor is likely just fine but fog the motor first to lube the internal bearings and seals in case it does fire up.

 

[johnnygjr]

Drain the lower unit oil,inspect,and refill.usually 90weight. If there's rust in tank,muriatic acid will remove it

 

[GollyWhopper93]

Fog the motor before firing it up. Get a can of fogging oil and pull the spark plug wires off and hold the carb open and spray fogging oil in the carb as you have someone turn the motor over. It for sure needs a impeller but for now fill the tank with fresh gas at 50:1 oil mix in it. Put the motor in a barrel of water pump the carb full of fuel until the primer bulb gets hard. push the choke and see if it fires up. I normally just pull the gearbox and see if I can get the motor running first that way you dont need water just dont let it get hot. The motor is likely just fine but fog the motor first to lube the internal bearings and seals in case it does fire up.

Thanks for the tips! Looks like the fogging oil is a must. I'm hoping to not have to break it down too much (i.e. pull the motor), but we've just started digging into it so only time will tell.

 

[GollyWhopper93]

Drain the lower unit oil,inspect,and refill.usually 90weight. If there's rust in tank,muriatic acid will remove it

Thanks! On a side note about oil, I noticed a little bit of oil in the lower motor cover. Could this be indicative of a leak somewhere? Or possibly just spilled when it was last changed or topped off?

 

[kevinj]

Thanks! On a side note about oil, I noticed a little bit of oil in the lower motor cover. Could this be indicative of a leak somewhere? Or possibly just spilled when it was last changed or topped off?

Do you mean the oil is in the bottom tray where the engine is or the lower unit down by the prop?
Oil in the bottom tray is really common. That's usually fuel mix that has aspirated out of the carbs into the flame arrestor or possibly fuel that's come through the carb throat when the motor was tilted up.

Oil around the prop or the exhaust relief holes is just from the exhaust.

Yep, definitely also change out the lower unit oil.

KJ

 

[GollyWhopper93]

Do you mean the oil is in the bottom tray where the engine is or the lower unit down by the prop?
Oil in the bottom tray is really common. That's usually fuel mix that has aspirated out of the carbs into the flame arrestor or possibly fuel that's come through the carb throat when the motor was tilted up.

Oil around the prop or the exhaust relief holes is just from the exhaust.

Yep, definitely also change out the lower unit oil.

KJ

This was oil just in the bottom tray. I still need to inspect the lower unit/prop. Thanks!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

There is no reason to believe the engine is bad. I allways try and fire it off first. Once you determine the powerhead is good then you can start putting money into parts. Check compression is about all thats necessary if compression is good all other parts can be found easy enough.

 

[GollyWhopper93]

There is no reason to believe the engine is bad. I allways try and fire it off first. Once you determine the powerhead is good then you can start putting money into parts. Check compression is about all thats necessary if compression is good all other parts can be found easy enough.

Thanks! We checked compression and it seemed good. And I feel that with it being stored indoors over the years has helped preserve it all. I am going to check and replace all the rubber lines and seals and such just in case they are dry-rotted, which I feel is a certainty after this long haha.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What are the compression numbers? here is a list of necessary parts
Fuel pump kit
carb kit
impeller and housing if necessary
all fuel lines
service manual
spark plugs
Tasks
rebuild fuel pump and carb, be sure and surface the flange on the carb on a glass table pulling in one direction only until it all shines the same with 220 grit
do not over tighten carb down nice and snug is the technical term
adjust sync and link we can go through that just prior to starting
pressure test the gearbox after you drain the oil no more than 8psi pressure and soap test all the seals and shift rod look for bubbles
give the impeller a little squirt of dish soap and turn the driveshaft clockwise as you push on the housing. never turn counterclockwise
install gearbox doing the same onlt turn the flywheel clockwise to line up the splines a little soap on the water tube helps it slide in
gap and install spark plugs
preset the slow needle out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated and pump the primer until the bulb gets hard
I allway test in a barrel of water at least 5 inches above the cavitation plate or water pump
see if she fires up

 

[GollyWhopper93]

What are the compression numbers?

We were getting around 100 psi with a spark hole gauge and turning it over with a rope.

Tasks
rebuild fuel pump and carb, be sure and surface the flange on the carb on a glass table pulling in one direction only until it all shines the same with 220 grit
do not over tighten carb down nice and snug is the technical term
adjust sync and link we can go through that just prior to starting
pressure test the gearbox after you drain the oil no more than 8psi pressure and soap test all the seals and shift rod look for bubbles
give the impeller a little squirt of dish soap and turn the driveshaft clockwise as you push on the housing. never turn counterclockwise
install gearbox doing the same onlt turn the flywheel clockwise to line up the splines a little soap on the water tube helps it slide in
gap and install spark plugs
preset the slow needle out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated and pump the primer until the bulb gets hard
I allway test in a barrel of water at least 5 inches above the cavitation plate or water pump
see if she fires up

I'll reference this when we get to these stages! Thank you! One question, should we replace the prop shaft oil seals? If so, is this a DIY or take it to a professional fix?

Thanks again!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Easy enough to do yourself just screw a couple sheet metal screws into the seals and pull them out with a pair of channellocks or vice grips. Is the propshaft seals leaking?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

FYI there are two seals back to back just screw into the seals close to the outer edge and pry them out. Be careful not to damage the carrier where the seals press in.

 

[GollyWhopper93]

FYI there are two seals back to back just screw into the seals close to the outer edge and pry them out. Be careful not to damage the carrier where the seals press in.

Awesome! And no, they are not leaking as far as I know. I haven't inspected that area too closely yet though. Are they fine to leave if they aren't leaking?

 

[johnnygjr]

yes they are

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If it aint broke dont fix it. Replace the impeller and the pump housing if it is pitted or has grooves worn in it. Was there any water in the gearoil?

 

[GollyWhopper93]

If it aint broke dont fix it. Replace the impeller and the pump housing if it is pitted or has grooves worn in it. Was there any water in the gearoil?

I haven't had the chance to check yet. I am away at school right now but am planning to dive into it over the holiday break here in about a month.