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Genehereiam

New member
I am a little more intimate with my "new" motor.
I am starting to check the motor over from bottom to top & visa versa.
It's a 2006 9.8 4 Stroker.............Tiller control.

My questions, etc. this time.

Is there supposed to be a gasket / washer on the oil drain bolt ???
If so, is there any reason why I would need to go to a dealer when I can get a nylon or rubber gasket / washer at a local big box store ???

There is NO dealer within 40 miles of me for parts or question asking.

Same question for the lower unit oil plugs.
I am thinking a nylon washer of the appropriate size might do the trick ???

The fellow I bought my used engine from didn't tell me ALL of the truths.
Imagine this ??? !!!

First off, he "skidded" the motor, with the WRONG side down.
He told me he drained the oil out of it before he shipped it.
NOT !!!
My question here.
Is this going to cause me a problem with oil getting into the carburetor ???
I read (on line) where a guy had trouble transporting his motor with the wrong side down and oil in his carb caused him a few problems.

I DID drain the oil from the engine and the lower unit.
There was NO indication any thing is wrong either place.
The engine oil looked like it IS time to change.
There is NO discoloration or foaming in the lower unit oil.

I will drive to Knoxville tomorrow to get the fitting I need to hook my gas tank to the engine.
Hopefully this guy will be a good source for parts and info ???

Thanx to any and all who answer here.
Anything you offer up will be received with LOTS of THANK YOU.

/ Gene
 
Having your precise model and serial would help a lot. Year is unimportant for service purposes. Sounds like you probably have an MFS9.8A2 or A3.

The 8/9.8 is among the best out there... Light, efficient, quiet, and durable, available in many configurations to fit many applications... not to mention pretty easy to service. I've sold many of them, and own one myself. It's my favorite Tohatsu 4-stroke design.

You can get a parts catalog and a Factory service manual from any dealer, including me (they fit in the mail well, saving long driving trips), and most service departments will consult with you on the phone. The parts catalog details a lot in exploded diagrams, including the seal washers that are required for the crankcase drain, and for the LU drain/fill plugs.

Yes, there is supposed to be an aluminum seal washer at the crankcase drain, 3R3074060M WASHER $0.38, and fiber washers are used at the LU drain/fill plugs, 332600060M GASKET $0.57.

If the motor was laid on the wrong side, it's likely that crankcase oil got past the rings (into the cylinders), and may have leaked all over, including the intake/carb. Once you purge that, you should be OK. To clear the cylinders, remove the plugs and cycle the recoil a few times to expel the oil from the plug holes. Having a rag to soak up the expelled oil is a good idea. Then you can reinstall the plugs and test start the motor. Probably will require more than a few pulls to get the air/fuel mixture to overcome the oil remaining in the cylinders. It will smoke a lot as the oil residue is burned off. As usual, do not start the motor without oil, nor without cooling water.

If there is a bunch of oil in the intake, carb, and silencer, you can unbolt the carb and/or intake, and wash that out with any mineral spirits-type solvent. However, it's probably not an issue (as long as the silencer isn't completely full of oil), as it should get burned off during the first few minutes of running.

Do not overfill the crankcase... not even a drop. It holds about a pint and a half total. Always check the level on the dipstick, as you don't know how much oil remains in the oil pump, galleries, etc. On motors that are not broken in yet, run with the oil about half way on the dipstick. Use SAE 10w-30 oil, and be sure it's NMMA certified FC-W, as that is the best anti-corrosion rating for outboards. Also be sure that the LU is completely filled with any good SAE 80/90 hypoid lube.
 
Having your precise model and serial would help a lot. Year is unimportant for service purposes. Sounds like you probably have an MFS9.8A2 or A3.

I HAVE A NSF9.8A3

The 8/9.8 is among the best out there... Light, efficient, quiet, and durable, available in many configurations to fit many applications... not to mention pretty easy to service. I've sold many of them, and own one myself. It's my favorite Tohatsu 4-stroke design.

I AM GLAD TO “HEAR” THIS.


You can get a parts catalog

WHAT’S THE PRICE OF A PARTS CATALOG ???

Yes, there is supposed to be an aluminum seal washer at the crankcase drain, 3R3074060M WASHER $0.38

DOES THIS WASHER NEED REPLACEMENT AT EACH OIL
CHANGE ???

, and fiber washers are used at the LU drain/fill plugs, 332600060M GASKET $0.57.

THE FIBER WASHERS NEED CHANGED EVERY TIME ONE REMOVES THEM ???

If the motor was laid on the wrong side, it's likely that crankcase oil got past the rings (into the cylinders), and may have leaked all over, including the intake/carb. Once you purge that, you should be OK. To clear the cylinders, remove the plugs and cycle the recoil a few times to expel the oil from the plug holes. Having a rag to soak up the expelled oil is a good idea. Then you can reinstall the plugs and test start the motor. Probably will require more than a few pulls to get the air/fuel mixture to overcome the oil remaining in the cylinders. It will smoke a lot as the oil residue is burned off. As usual, do not start the motor without oil, nor without cooling water.

If there is a bunch of oil in the intake, carb, and silencer

IS THE “SILENCER” IN THE SAME LOCATION AS A NORMAL AIR CLEANER ???

you can unbolt the carb and/or intake, and wash that out with any mineral spirits-type solvent. However, it's probably not an issue (as long as the silencer isn't completely full of oil), as it should get burned off during the first few minutes of running.

UNDERSTOOD.

Do not overfill the crankcase... not even a drop. It holds about a pint and a half total. Always check the level on the dipstick, as you don't know how much oil remains in the oil pump, galleries, etc. On motors that are not broken in yet, run with the oil about half way on the dipstick. Use SAE 10w-30 oil, and be sure it's NMMA certified FC-W, as that is the best anti-corrosion rating for outboards. Also be sure that the LU is completely filled with any good SAE 80/90 hypoid lube.

I UNDERSTAND ALL OF THIS.
THANK YOU FOR ALL THE ASSISTANCE, Gene
 
The parts catalog is fairly cheap 002N210511 PARTS CATALOG NSF8A2/9.8A2 $27.85; You also should have the Service manual 003N210560 SERVICE MANUAL NSF8A/9.8A $26.52. No, you do not need to change the aluminum crankcase washer with every oil change, but if the LU fiber washers are crushed, it's a good idea. Many mechanics just change them with every annual LU lube change.
 
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