Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Newb with a boat. Multiple problems!

C

chrisdoc0608

New member
Hello all. I just recently purchased my first boat. I have a VRO 110 on it and I am experiencing some issues. I will start by saying that the VRO pump has been disconnected and I run premix. I familiar with two stroke jet ski motors so I am hoping many of the same principals apply with this motor. The boat ran excellent the first two times out, I went through about 20gal of fuel.

Issue 1) The last two times out, from the dock the motor idles well revs right up and runs fine. I stop and fish for a bit and get ready to go to another spot and it immediately begins to run poorly. I am not reaching full rpms, the only thing that will get the motor up to almost ull rpms is depressing the key a few times to prime the motor. Pressing the fuel ball does not help a bit. I have pulled the carbs and filters no trash in the carbs and a small bit of gunk in one of the filters, I do not believe that it is nearly enough to cause the symptoms I am experiencing.

Issue 2) The motor has a knock sound at low rpms. I fear it may have something to do with the crank. What are trouble shooting steps to take before I pull the case apart and inspect the crank?

Issue 3) The left side of my motor gets hot the right remains relatively cool. The left side is not too hot to touch or sizzle water if splashed on it, but it is noticeably hotter.... is this something to look into?

Issue 4) When going from neutral to reverse from time to time it sounds as if it grinds the gear then suddenly it will catch, sometimes it takes longer than others... Going into forward is nothing like this. I have changed the lower unit oil and no metal particulates came out of the old... again, any advice would be appreciated


Thanks in advance for any help!
 
The first thing to do is a compression test !!!----These motors have a history of breaking the piston rings ( usually # 1 and #3 are first to go ) I see this all the time.-----So post the results of the test and then we can go from there.
 
If the year of that 110hp is listed, I keep overlooking it. Model number?

Temp differences on engine banks.... Faulty thermostats (there are two) and/or water deflector problems as follows.

(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.
Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the ruber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.
Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Engine knock? Check for piston play as follows.

(Piston Play Check)
(J. Reeves)

This procedure will tell you if there is any wear or play in the Wrist Pin, Wrist Pin Bearing, or Connecting Rod to Crankshaft area.

Remove the spark plugs. Insert a screwdriver, dowel, punch, or some object of your choice through the s/plug hole and into the cylinder/piston area. Hold the tool lightly against the top of the piston. Turn the flywheel by hand, bringing the piston up to top dead center, then continue turning the flywheel to pull the piston down about a inch..... all the while holding the tool lightly against the piston top.

Now, at the point whereas the piston has been dropped down about a inch, grab the flywheel and hold it firmly. Now, push that tool solidly and firmly against the piston top.

If the piston moves without moving the flywheel, there is a problem (wear, play, clearance, etc) somewhere with the items mention in the first sentence. Be sure to check all of the pistons/cylinders.
 
Joe,

Thanks so much for the info. That should get me off to a great start. As far as year and model number, the identifying info I found on the motor says JL110TLCUR
R7493899

You have any ideas? That was stamped on a round plate on the cylinder.


Chris
 
That's the model number... be a good idea to jot it down somewhere safe for future reference.

The "CU" in that number identifies the engine as a 1987 model. Are you sure there's a "L" after the "J"?

J = Johnson
110 = 110 Horsepower
T = Power Tilt Trim
L = Long Shaft (20")
C = 8
U = 7
R = Factory run number
 
Joe,

The pistons all checked out, no movement without movement of the flywheel. There was not an "L" after the J, Idk what I was reading haha.
What next?

I noticed that all of my plugs have a nice brown color on the inside except for one that looks a bit rich.... could the knock be coming from a cylinder misfiring? I did ground out the plugs and look for spark, all had it.


As for the cooling, I am not sure I am clear on the lines you spoke of. I see two large lines from the center of the rear of the motor ( connected to a white block) that run to the bottom of each cylinder. I was not able to track down any other cooling lines from there.

-Chris
 
Back
Top