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New to my Boat and 40hp Johnson Super Sea-Horse Electramatic

T

toadshade

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...And to boat engines, and to this forum.

Not new to forums, but to boat and boat engines, so I just wanted to ask if there is anything anyone would do to this engine before putting it in the water. I had a small outboard years ago and I remember making sure to check and/or replace the impeller. I was going to check it by injecting water into the intake and seeing if the thermostat and impeller are working and start there. Other than that, are there some super-need to know items specific to this engine that would be a good idea to check? Without knowing where to go easily on this forum, are there good checklists here that someone could point me to?

Engine starts right up and sounds great.

Oh, in true forum style, I could only upload this one image. I have more.
 

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An ---RKL-30 perhaps.-----Judging by the color it is a 1967 /1968 / 69 model.------An excellent motor.-----Replace impeller, inspect thermostat, change gear oil ( type C / Premium blend ) that is marked for electric shift.-------Make sure the generator and belt are in good working order.----Make sure the " hot air choke " is all in order too.---Do a compression test for future reference.-----Post some more pictures of power head too.
 
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Thanks. Just what I needed to know. For the life of me I cannot add more images. I am working on it.
Not familiar with the hot air choke. There are chokes everywhere. Never seen so many. One on the engine of course, one on the throttle controls, and evidently there is an electric one on the console that I have not tried yet. It supposedly works. Hasn't been a need yet though.
 
If you had posted a picture of the side of the hood I could recognize a 67 model in 2 seconds.----All the same parts as the 68 / 69 model.----Electric shift is great stuff in my opinion.----The red lever on the control is for advancing the throttle for fast idle in neutral.----Choke is essentially automatic with a solenoid to help with initial cold start.
 
OK great thanks. I noticed two wires are disconnected. Wish I could send a photo. Something is going on with the attachment feature keeping me from uploading. I would start explaining but I know it is pointless. Solenoid is disconnected though. I heard there are good vs bad manuals for this engine. And are there general manuals vs FSM?
 
Trouble is, factory service manuals are basically written for dealer shop techs that are "supposed" to know which end of the screwdriver fits the slot. Novices buy them, expecting them to tell how to troubleshoot stuff like "cuts out at high speed" Ain't going to happen. On the other hand, it is about required if you need to get into the lower unit or DC generator stuff.
 
Yeah I am used to that. I don't know boat motors, but I am used to FSM's and forums a little bit due to my addiction to diesel Land Cruisers. You should see some of the notes I have made to myself in my FSM's. Especially after a few beers.
 
Well-----" two wires are disconnected "------Means nothing to anybody.------two wires together, a blue and a green at the back of the engine would be a better description.
 
Yes, I know. It is a white wire coming off of one side and a black wire coming from what I assume is the choke solenoid, but since I wasn't sure, I didn't think that description would make sense. I need to take a good look at the engine with a manual and figure it all out. Boat engines like this are new to me.
 
Ah yes, how typical. People think they know more than the engineers that built the engine and just start disconnecting and removing "all that junk that is not needed". The white wires are associated with the starter safety switch and vacuum cut-out switch. You say it starts right up, so they must have defeated the switch's purposes. Choke solenoid wire is supposed to be red with white stripe on that motor. Choke solenoid is on the carburetor.
 
Thanks a lot. Didn't think it would be that simple. I need to learn my way around this engine. I have seen two manuals. The Seloc and the original. I would tend to get the original but I need a basic understanding of the electronics first so I can see what everything does. Is there a better manual for that? BTW, it was a red wire disconnected coming off the gear motor for the automatic choke. It was in a black sleeve. I cannot see where it was originally connected. But I am not worried about it. I can reach back and do it by hand. Starts so well, might not need it anyway. I also cannot find a home for the end of the white starter safety wire. I found a third disconnected wire too. It is faded red or orange and coming out of the main harness. I need a manual to describe that better. Is there a good place to go for parts for this engine? I need a new belt and generator pulley. The gasket for the engine cover and the impeller.
 
Stop----The automatic choke does NOT have a gear motor.----It has a bi-metallic spring that reacts by air temperature and a solenoid.-----Look for a switch under the magneto plate to attach the white wire.----And before you ask that switch only needs ONE wire going to it.----Many parts are available if you look on this site and elsewhere.----I would have each and every part / nut / bolt for that motor.------Packaging / shipping would be an issue.----If you were in Canada it would be easier.
 
I need to get the manual so I know what I am looking at. I have one ordered so I will be able to talk about this later. I am placing an order for all my parts. Looks like everything is available which is incredible for this old engine.
 
That motor was a " bread and butter " motor made the same for many years in a different era.---No offshore products to thin the total production ETC.------It was on the back of every small boat !-------There are lots of them still running.-----When there is a demand for parts , somebody will make / supply them.
 
Yep I got it thanks. I just ordered some stuff. Looking forward to the manual so I can figure some of this stuff out. Really interested in this auto choke. Or what I think is the auto choke. I did not see it in the parts for this engine in the link you forwarded. Something is going on with the attachments here. I cannot delete the one photo I started the thread with, nor can I add more or I would post what I am talking about. I have not seen a contact for an admin.
 
There is a metal tube on the side of the motor.-----When motor starts it pulls a wee bit of air from this tube into the carburetor.------This air is first pulled through a heat exchanger inside the exhaust manifold.----As motor runs this air becomes warmer.-----If you remove the cover ( 3 screws ) you will see a bi-metallic spring.----This spring reacts to warm air.----
 
OK thanks for that. The part I am talking about is on the front of the carb. But I was surprised that that is a solenoid. But the manual is in the mail. I will be able to find out more when it arrives. Is that solenoid adjustable, or is it fixed all the way up or down?
 
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Item #61 that has the bi-metallic spring is adjustable for choke operation.------I used to have a very good feel to adjust those.----I think I have lost that touch.----I have many of those carburetors on hand.-----Just have not worked on many lately !
 
This is great to know that this was a popular engine with so many parts available. I am looking forward to getting in the water. I have always been really bad at adjusting the needle valves. So with any luck, it is set pretty well already. That or I could possibly rely on a 60 year old Electromatic auto device.
 
Some will argue.----I consider that electric shift gearcase to be very simple and reliable.-------Many pick-up trucks today come with an 8 speed electronically controlled transmission.-----I consider those to be scary.
 
This might help...sorry about sideways orientationIMG_0313.jpgIMG_0314.jpg
 

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Is that choke known for being reliable? It is one of those things that I usually shake my head and wonder what a manufacturer was thinking. Mine is disconnected, so this one is no longer working I assume. But is it worth fixing?
 
Many attempts have been made, down through the years, to make a simple and workable automatic choke. As far as I'm concerned, that hot-air choke was among the best. Personally, I prefer the good old electric choke. But lots of people can't comprehend those either. They probably didn't grow up in the days that cars had chokes and everybody understood why. Life's too simple now (really????)
 
Agree with the above by knowledgeable ---fdrgator----People today simply do not know how or why some simple stuff works.----That hot air choke is very simple.------But I have seen the air intake fitting for it plugged.---Simply because a makanik thought that something must be missing there.
 
Sorry to revive this thread, but I have all the parts I thought I would need to get the boat in the water safely. I was going to change the water pump and thermostat. Water pump is pretty straight forward. I was disappointed to see the thermostat replacement was not very well described in the Seloc manual. It basically says that the thermostat is usually located somewhere under a plate. Videos I have seen on old Johnsons say it is under the head. I would rather not take that off just to explore if I don't have to. Also, the gasket I got as a kit for the thermostat would not be enough for the repair. I would have to get a head gasket as well. I tried using the gasket that came with the kit to see if I could match a bolt pattern that would tell me where the thermostat is, but no luck. Is there a better diagram out there? This Seloc manual is not really any help at all.
 
OK, I forgot that this forum includes exploded views of the engine. So I found all the diagrams I was looking for. Turns out the thermostat kit I have is for a different engine, but it actually looks like a really convenient and easy replacement.
 
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