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marko

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" Hello, I was reffered to thi

" Hello, I was reffered to this board from Floridia Sportsman. This is very impressive, still looking around and getting my sea legs. "
 
" Ok, here's my question:

" Ok, here's my question:

Problem: Engine running hot on Port side cylinders. After having waterpump replaced, still runs hot. I took off both water hoses at bottom of heads, and water flows out immediately upon starting engine. Does this mean thermostat has been removed, or stuck open? Water flow on hot side of engine is about half as much as Starboard cylinders.

Possible causes??
Can water passages get clogged due to mineral buildup on just one side?
How many water lines (one or two) run from waterpump to block. The mechanic that replaced the waterpump told me that the copper line had a little kink in it. Wouldn? this cause water flow to be restricted on all four cylinders, OR does each side of the block have a different water line?

When touching the cold block after starting the engine, it? the inside (nearest to the middle of the block) between the two cylinders that seems to get hot to the touch first. Is there a passage there that typically gets blocked first?

Thanks a lot for any help!
PS-as you can tell, I am not familiar with outboards. I am just really trying to determine if the engine is worth fixing. (I hope so) "
 
This is embarrassing...I forg

This is embarrassing...I forgot to mention what motor I have. Doh! It's a 1977 85 HP Evinrude.
 
"Marko.... Please state what y

"Marko.... Please state what your engine is (Mfg, HP, Year). If your engine happens to be an Evinrude or Johnson engine (V/4 or V/6), from what you've said, I would assume that the rubber water deflectors within the block have been overheated at one time which have caused them to swell on one bank, resulting in a water restriction. The water deflectors can be seen by removing the cylinder head and looking directly at the block area. There will be one between the top cylinder and the next lower cylinder, and in the case of a V/6 between the center cylinder and the bottom cylinder, and in either case between the bottom cylinder and the block. If overheated, the deflector swells out sideways, towards the block, resulting in a egg shaped condition that restricts the water flow. If this is your problem, replace the deflectors on both banks.

There is but one water tube that supplies water to the block. The water flows to the block (powerhead) first, then out the rubber water hoses to the housing that contains the thermostat(s). Get back to me with the Model number of your engine and we'll go from there. NOTE... I just caught your update about the year and hp.

UPDATE... Marko, there were two models made that year. One had a two (2) tube type water pump, the other had a one tube type pump. Which one do you have? The two tube simply recirulated the water until the thermo opened... only one tube was a supply tube. The one tube type had two thermos whereas the two tube type had one thermo.

Joe
"
 
" Thanks, Joe.
I will get the

" Thanks, Joe.
I will get the engine model number tonight when I get home.
If it helps, I also still have the parts box and old waterpump that the mechanic gave back to me. As I recall, the top of the old waterpump that he replaced had two black rubber bushings or nipples (about 3/4 inch O.D.)
And one smaller black rubber tube (about 3/8 inch) next to the main shaft, that looked like it had been cut to remove.
Does that help?
The mechanic also showed me where the inside of the waterpump was burned/melted. He said it looked like someone maybe ran the engine dry for an instant. Would that have been long enough to overheat the water reflector that you described?

I am pretty sure that the mechanic said "ONE of the copper tubes" had a kink in it, and that he had tried to reach up and bend it out but couldn't really get to it. "
 
"Marko... From what you've

"Marko... From what you've said above, it sounds like you have the early model 1977 85hp model, the one that has one thermostat and a water pump that has dual copper water tube leading to it. The bushings that you mention, I can not place. Perhaps you're speaking of the two large black water tube grommets. The smaller 3/8" tube is something I haven't got a clue about but it doesn't matter.

The melted inner portion of the water pump... it would take more than an instant to do that damage, more like quite a few minutes. It's possible that a overheat problem like that could swell those water deflectors, but I have seen many deflectors swell to a point whereas they would create a water restriction simply due to salt water corrosion.

A "kinked" copper pipe would exist if someone attempted to install the lower unit, didn't have the water tube guides aligned properly (the tube would miss the water pump entry hole(s)), and when tightening the lower unit bolts, the tube would press against the outer portion of the water pump assy, shoving and bending the copper water tube pipe upwards. That creates a big problem that requires either a major disasembly or a great deal of patience in prying, pulling, straightening, etc etc in getting that tube back down where it belongs. Not something one looks forward to.

Joe
"
 
" Thanks for the info, Joe.
T

" Thanks for the info, Joe.
The engine model is 85793S
I just took a look at the old waterpump. I was mistaken. There is no smaller black hose. There are the two black rubber grommets that you described. I even see a little green oxidation where they seat into the oppening, I guess from the copper???

Would the easiest thing to rule out first, be the water deflectors? If so, could a non-mechanic (me) fix it? I know thats a hard question to answer since you don't know me. I think I could follow a manual fairly well,as long as the procedure didn't require any specialized tools. I just have standard/metric wrenches.
Thanks again for your help. "
 
"Markoc... Yes, the green oxid

"Markoc... Yes, the green oxidation is due to the copper tube (normal). And I think it would be best if you looked at the water deflectors first. This would also allow you to inspect the head and block surfaces, etc. I think you can do the job with standard tools, just take your time.

If the deflectors are faulty (and I suggest you check both banks), use long nose pliers and a scribe with a pointed hook on the end to get them out of there. Notice that there are slightly raised portions in the water jacket that hold the deflectors in place. After you get them out, use a small rat tail file to clean the areas where the deflectors go (I use a 1/4" non tapered file such as used to sharpen chain saw links). The water deflectors are actually nothing more than a small diamiter fuel hose so you can pick up some of that at any automotive type store. It must be a snug fit!

Before installing new deflectors, insert something in the area where they will go to determine the length of the deflector, then cut the fuel hose accordingly. Now, spray the deflector and the area where it will go with WD40 which will act as a lubricant (some of them can be a real bugger to get all the way in). You may have to reach in with that pointed hooked scribe (a right angle hook) and penatrate the deflector about 1/8" or so from the bottom to help push it all the way in. When you're done, if a very slight amount protrudes above the block sealing area, trim it off with a razor blade.

Note that the cyl head torque is 18 to 20 foot pounds, in the below order.

-9-10
5----6
-1--2
4----3
-8--7

Joe
"
 
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