I bought my 1st rig on march 1st, a 1971 Caravelle with a 1971 Evinrude 60 hp. it ran great. It sat for a couple weeks and now it won't run for more than 5 seconds. It has new plugs, new fuel pump, and new fuel, and the fuel is going thru the pump.
The above quote obviously modified for clarity... the KISS method.
Always..... Remove all s/plugs..........
Check compression. What is the psi reading of all cylinders?
Check the spark which should jump a 1/4" gap on that model with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
If no spark tester, you can insert a #2 philips screwdriver into the s/plug boot, then hold the screwdriver shank that distance away from the powerhead.
Just sitting for a couple weeks would have no effect on the engine.
The running great mention... was that before or after the new parts was installed? Have you been messing with the slow speed adjustable needle valves... or is it possible that someone else may have been messing with the engine without your knowledge?
The nylon retainers at the front portion of the carburetors, the ones that keep the slow speed needle valves from turning on their own, should be RED in color (tighter grip than original). If white or yellow in color, replace them.
Remove drain screws from the float chambers temporarily to check fuel for water. Also note that if using 6gal portable tanks, always put in a gallon of fuel first, then the oil, then finishing filling the tank. The NOTE mention is because IF one puts the oil in first in a empty tank, that allows raw oil to enter the fuel supply line to find its way to the carburetor(s) and engine will not run on pure raw oil.... so yeah, you're checking those carburetors for raw oil also.
The following is important!
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)
Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.
Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.
Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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Do not reply with generalities such as the compression is great... the spark is perfect, that sort of thing means nothing to us. Be precise.
Let us know what you find.
