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new engine install

It's your boat and your money, but note replacing a good sensor "can" cause more problems

Also note, with VP the Cam sensor will not keep it from starting unless it's shorted out which that's not your issue
 
markusbr549 said:
cam and crank sensors. Its fine after it sat . started right up. once warm acts up
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Open the throttle if it doesn't want to start when at normal operating temperature. If it starts, check the ECT, as I have recommended in several threads and have done when repairing many boats for this problem. It's where I start looking.

Have someone crank while you wiggle the wiring harness, too- heat can cause the harness to sag and that can pull on terminals that may lose contact- the better sealed plugs should remain in contact, but ring terminals should be checked- I have found more than one nut on a grounding stud that wasn't tight.
 
jimn said:
Open the throttle if it doesn't want to start when at normal operating temperature. If it starts, check the ECT, as I have recommended in several threads and have done when repairing many boats for this problem. It's where I start looking.

Have someone crank while you wiggle the wiring harness, too- heat can cause the harness to sag and that can pull on terminals that may lose contact- the better sealed plugs should remain in contact, but ring terminals should be checked- I have found more than one nut on a grounding stud that wasn't tight.
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jimn said:
Open the throttle if it doesn't want to start when at normal operating temperature. If it starts, check the ECT, as I have recommended in several threads and have done when repairing many boats for this problem. It's where I start looking.

Have someone crank while you wiggle the wiring harness, too- heat can cause the harness to sag and that can pull on terminals that may lose contact- the better sealed plugs should remain in contact, but ring terminals should be checked- I have found more than one nut on a grounding stud that wasn't tight.
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Yes, I plan on replacing the ect . But I just ordered the seals for the fuel pump assembly. I'm going to clean out everything in the fuel system before just replacing it. I was getting good readings on low and high pumps but under load, the high-pressure pump would drop pressure. I believe there is blockage. contamination. will report back, I appreciate the ect advice. hope if it doesn't work you are still around.
 
markusbr549 said:
Yes, I plan on replacing the ect . But I just ordered the seals for the fuel pump assembly. I'm going to clean out everything in the fuel system before just replacing it. I was getting good readings on low and high pumps but under load, the high-pressure pump would drop pressure. I believe there is blockage. contamination. will report back, I appreciate the ect advice. hope if it doesn't work you are still around.
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Do you know that the ECT is bad, or are you just replacing it as a guess?

Did you test the fuel pressure while it was running, under load? You need to do that.
 
jimn said:
Do you know that the ECT is bad, or are you just replacing it as a guess?

Did you test the fuel pressure while it was running, under load? You need to do that.
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I do not know if the ect is bad. But i read it should be done as a regular maintaince , not sure about that. how could i test it. . Also i just test pump with gauge and when i increased the RPM it would drop from 51 psi to 46 47 psi . The screan is clean on the regulator but the marina cleaned it. THe pumps could have paint chips in the screans. That needs to be done , I wish i would have done it when i had the engine out.
 
markusbr549 said:
I do not know if the ect is bad. But i read it should be done as a regular maintaince , not sure about that. how could i test it. . Also i just test pump with gauge and when i increased the RPM it would drop from 51 psi to 46 47 psi . The screan is clean on the regulator but the marina cleaned it. THe pumps could have paint chips in the screans. That needs to be done , I wish i would have done it when i had the engine out.
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ECT will work until it doesn't. My Astro van has the OEM ECT and all of the other sensors- it's coming close to 288K miles. The ECT resistance chart is easy to find online and all you need to do to test it is put the sensor in water, measure the resistance and compare the resistance with the corresponding temperatures as the water becomes warmer. If the resistance is too low, the ECM thinks the engine is overheating and it won't start with the choke closed.

Why would the filters have paint in them?

1765991992316.png
 
ECT isn't a maintenance item, only replace when defective
The ECT and MAP provide the info to ECM and th fuel table. The ECM gives the motor more or less fuel based on it
 
AllDodge said:
ECT isn't a maintenance item, only replace when defective
The ECT and MAP provide the info to ECM and th fuel table. The ECM gives the motor more or less fuel based on it
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I'm on a phone call- I was going to add TPS values and the effect of errors on startability. It would be a good idea to measure the TPS resistance but a multimeter can't react quickly enough to show the little glitches- at Mastercraft training, we used a digital storage oscilloscope and we could see when the glitch occurred.

Much cheaper to replace it but watching the data in real time is helpful- just easier to replace the TPS and have a better chance that it's good, but I would also recommend measuring the resistance on all three wires in the harness from end to end, with the ground being more important, especially if its ground is shared with another sensor because they will interact if one ground is lifted to any extent. If any of the wires has resistance more than .1 Ohms, find out why and DO NOT just cut off the terminals and crimp the new one(s) on- the contact area and pressure isn't good enough to make it accurate over the long haul. If a terminal is replaced, it should be crimped PROPERLY and soldered.
 
the volvo fuel pumps have a known issue with the paint. Ethonol fuel breaks the paint down and it flakes. Volvo has a bulletin out on it. Man cave repairs this problem or supplies parts for the repair.
 
jimn said:
ECT will work until it doesn't. My Astro van has the OEM ECT and all of the other sensors- it's coming close to 288K miles. The ECT resistance chart is easy to find online and all you need to do to test it is put the sensor in water, measure the resistance and compare the resistance with the corresponding temperatures as the water becomes warmer. If the resistance is too low, the ECM thinks the engine is overheating and it won't start with the choke closed.

Why would the filters have paint in them?

View attachment 36571
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Also there is no choke. this is a fuel injected engine.
 
jimn said:
ECT will work until it doesn't. My Astro van has the OEM ECT and all of the other sensors- it's coming close to 288K miles. The ECT resistance chart is easy to find online and all you need to do to test it is put the sensor in water, measure the resistance and compare the resistance with the corresponding temperatures as the water becomes warmer. If the resistance is too low, the ECM thinks the engine is overheating and it won't start with the choke closed.

Why would the filters have paint in them?

View attachment 36571
Click to expand...
Do you know if this chart applies to volvo penta temp sender
 
markusbr549 said:
the volvo fuel pumps have a known issue with the paint. Ethonol fuel breaks the paint down and it flakes. Volvo has a bulletin out on it. Man cave repairs this problem or supplies parts for the repair.
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I can't think of a single reason for paint to be inside of a fuel pump. If they want their pumps to last, they should be made of Stainless steel.
 
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