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markusbr549

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Having a hell of a time getting power to the engine. Have dash lights, 2006 Volvo 5.7 Chaparral . Usually, the fuel pump will turn on. should a ground from battery go direct to block .
 
markusbr549 said:
Having a hell of a time getting power to the engine. Have dash lights, 2006 Volvo 5.7 Chaparral . Usually, the fuel pump will turn on. should a ground from battery go direct to block .
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Did you remove the old engine? Did you make notes and take photos BEFORE removal?
 
I did not pull it. My marine shop did. I rebuilt everything and reinstalled it myself . They have my grounds tide together with a bolt , I figured it out and have them all hooked up now and have power. I have oil in and its been primed have to drop distributer , I have top dead center on compression stroke number one up. now sure how to drop it with the kind of cap i have , im use to the round one this one has the wires on 2 sides.
 
Which VP 5.7 do you have? Is it a Gi, Gxi other?

has the wires on 2 sides.
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Sounds like HVS distributor
HVS Distributor Timing.jpg
 
Not sure if GTX, I think so, and am working on that. But here is a pic of the manifold . Are those the lines the distributor should point to above the 365 numbers? It says osxi.
 
Usually on Volvos and OMCs there is a stud on the bellhousing on both sides, that it the typical ground point. About grounding, if your cables are old don't assume they are good, sometimes a nick in the insulation will allow corrosion to start and it will be all green and crusty inside.
 
louc said:
Usually on Volvos and OMCs there is a stud on the bellhousing on both sides, that it the typical ground point. About grounding, if your cables are old don't assume they are good, sometimes a nick in the insulation will allow corrosion to start and it will be all green and crusty inside.
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yes all grounds are hooked up there
 
I'm good to go except for the distributor, and also, my alternator red wire is broken. The end link must have rotted off, and it is too short to fix. Can I add a short piece?
 
Distributer is sitting down in oil pump slot . its lined up but if you look at the other pic the screw to cap is right on the manifold . If it needs to be moved for timing that way it wont work. Plug also looks the same with wiring harness
 
you dont adjust the timing on those engines...moving the distributor adjusts what is called the "cam retard" and you'll need a scan tool to do it properly...
 
makomark said:
you dont adjust the timing on those engines...moving the distributor adjusts what is called the "cam retard" and you'll need a scan tool to do it properly...
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I did read that. to unlock the distributer. I was going to take it to my dealer to have it done. Is the distributer fine where it's at. Could i try to start to the engine. I think im ready
 
If the motor is exactly at TDC number 1, the distributor is installed and clamped down.

There is no further adjustment, install cap/wires and fire it up

If it doesn't run correctly and it's determined the dizzy is slightly off, there is a tool that can be made for a few dollars to set it correctly if needed.
 
So update . rapped up hooking everything up, including gas line. It fired right up. and ran great. Took a minute to get oil into lifters but it sounds great. So i warmed it up and shut it down. inspected for leaks . none. Tried to restart and it almost started. Right back to same problem i had when this all started. If you hit it just right and give it gas but not to much with the throttle it will start but if you dont get it right away it goes into i think a flooding case, and wont start. Before motor rebuild i would be riunning out on lake throw it down to idle and it would stall start right up if you were carefull with throttle. I shouldnt have to give it gas with fuel injection. I probably should have changed the fuel pumps ,, any thoughts . I dont think its iac valve. but could be wrong.
 
Going to need some data from the motor as what is going on. Only way I know to get it is with a scanner. Can use the Techmate Pro and watch 3 sensors at a time but best way is with Diacom software. Diacom allows the every sensor on the motor to be recorded and played back.

Rinda.com is who sells them
 
AllDodge said:
If the motor is exactly at TDC number 1, the distributor is installed and clamped down.

There is no further adjustment, install cap/wires and fire it up

If it doesn't run correctly and it's determined the dizzy is slightly off, there is a tool that can be made for a few dollars to set it correctly if needed.
Click to expand...
I
AllDodge said:
If the motor is exactly at TDC number 1, the distributor is installed and clamped down.

There is no further adjustment, install cap/wires and fire it up

If it doesn't run correctly and it's determined the dizzy is slightly off, there is a tool that can be made for a few dollars to set it correctly if needed.
Click to expand...
Im wondering about cam and crank sensors .
 
AllDodge said:
Going to need some data from the motor as what is going on. Only way I know to get it is with a scanner. Can use the Techmate Pro and watch 3 sensors at a time but best way is with Diacom software. Diacom allows the every sensor on the motor to be recorded and played back.

Rinda.com is who sells them
Click to expand...
cam and crank sensors. Its fine after it sat . started right up. once warm acts up
 
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