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new boater 73 glastron v174 volvo penta aq130 270 leg

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Doogietroudt

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Allright here we go.. Got a boat for 300 sat for 3 years was winterized Going for full restoration. Some one did put a new floor in.. I pulled it out to check all the wood braces were clean like new looking wood with exelent resin.. so put bedliner on bottom side of floor.. same after re install.. Started boat new gas new oil ect. ( I have worked on cars and paint cars for years good at cars anyways) Started right up put ears on and no water impeller good.. so bypassed and hooked up hose on input side off the water pump. light water pressure.. ran good good temps felt good about boat.. So I fixed all the stress cracks I live in Colorado so boat was in great shape for that exept some rock scrapes on bottom and where some one hit the rub rail on a marine dock. So fresh paint was white and green now white and purple boat flake. Old school glitter for me!!! Then orderd seats today ready for interior.. Now i checked the oil and water in it.. drained all the oil left the oil plug in pan did a test with water from hose ( light pressure) conected to water pump.. water came out of flap clean as before. Hand turned crank over a few times Aprox 10 gallons of water ran throug.. Pulled out Oil plug and 4oz of water came out.. Pulled all the plugs checkd for water none.. So I pulled of water pump I noticed water behind the pump into the cam cover cavity... So I bypassed water pump and used the input hose after the water pump with the garden hose hooked up and did the same test again no water in oil pan...So I am wondering is it possible that I got lucky and its A bad water pump or a seal?? Im new to forums all together let alone boats. Grew up on boats know a little but this is my first boat.. Please help Thanks Alan Troudt I am sure I will have many more to come
 
Water in the oil could come from the oil cooler on the motor.Need to pressure check that.
The pump does it go right into the engine? Pics?? Possible the seal is bad..J
 
I dont have pics yet of the engine... But it conects to the upper timing gear inside of the cam cover so ya I think the seal is bad.. I couldnt get the old pump to pump up water I put a new impeller in it.. I noticed it does seem wore on the flatspot of the pump where the impeller rides... I did bypass the pump and put a hose after it and it goes directly to the oil cooler.. I had the oil filter off the hole time durning the test it had no seepage or water in the oil after I did the test with the water pump off the engine.. How do I test the oil cooler any way??? Thanks For All The Help And Who Ever Can Help Me...
 
Ya I messed with the boat today.. Since Im so far in.... I finished redoing the seat boxes seats will be in on tuesday.. Looked for some used water pumps on ebay found a few... I am thinking just like on cars used parts can be good or bad.. I dont want the same issues i have now.. Im thinking of a electric water pump bypass the old water pump all together.. I know I can run a good sealed unit no spark and is submersible.I looked at may sites to rebuild it 85 for rebuild and 210 for new.. honestly idk which way to go.. Any input on electric???
 
I Just found a kit for the impeller for the water pump. It has 2 seals and 1 oring.. Its on its way... Now I need to know the water pump shaft has a slight ring in it.. Im going to sand it like a machine shop would to clean it up a bit.. Is there some kind of lube thats supposed to be in there?? I think what happend is the seals were dry so it leaked? any imput is kindly apreciated!!!
 
Short of replacing the shaft, just polish the groove out best you can.
The seal will offer a pre-determined "squeeze" built into the design.
Baring excessive wear, you'll likely be OK.

Water will actually lubricate this seal when in use. However, they will only last so long.
Periodic pump over-haul is simply a part of routine maintenance.

Don't forget to replace the water neck fitting and special beaded gasket.
The "bead" faces downward against the pivot tube.
The tube articulates against the beaded surface, so this is lubed, rather than a sealant being applied to the beaded surface.
 

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I usually use trans gel or petrolum jelley on any seal.. if water lubes these seals how does it stay out of the camshaft cover?? Thats where my water is getting in.. I did notice that a diagram has seals and oring like mine... Plus had 2 bearnings and a clip after that drawing.. In your opinion is the bearings better than a seal?? do they replace the old seals like a upgrade in new parts?? Thanks Again Much Appreciated
 
You know, I may have been thinking about the OHC engine style pump.
So I may need to back up for a minute here.

Is this your style sea water pump???
4891.jpg



The pump body will offer two thrust surfaces for the impeller.
One will be the deep bore of the body, and the other is the actual cover.
If the deep bore surface is scratched up or grooved, then it will need to be replaced.
This may be how water is getting past the thrust surface and into the seal area.

.
 
no its not the style..but simillar..
i dont know if this picture uploaded or not.. i did find out the bearings are for a newer model wont fit into the pump housing.. so the shaft has a perfect cut in it.. im going to assemble and try to blow air through it.. the cam and the pump cover is good.. Its got to be the shaft or just old seals.. sat for 3 years
 
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