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new BF 20 starting question

2cylpropulsion

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Has about 1.5 hrs so far. How long to leave choke/enrichment on before eventually pushing it all the way in/off? Likes to flood/die if not done correctly.

Very hot here since May.

My 1st 4 stroke. Two stroke,kill choke right after start and it is fine(no enrichment on any I've had).
 
Ran it again and better this time. I just need the right modulating touch,I suppose.

Is it ok to let them run out of gas after use to help avoid carb issues ?
 
With my 2014 9.9(same carb) full choke, once it fires up, usually 1st pull, I immediately push the choke in half way then I give it a bit of throttle then fully close the choke. I find that even at 25C it needs choke for the first start of the day. I don’t have a dock to allow it to warm up so my goal is to get the revs down so it will stay running but not reving too high so that when I shift it into gear it’s a smooth shift.
 
Have you tried using no choke? I wouldn't use it if it starts without it. Otherwise, you will just need to get used to what it "wants". Every engine reacts a little differently to temperature and will develope it's own "personality".

Not only should you run the engine with the fuel line disconnected until it stops but you should also open the carburetor drain screw every so often and make SURE that all fuel has been removed from the float chamber.

Honda put that drain screw and drain hose there to conveniently let you catch and inspect the fuel from the carb via the little nozzle right next to the waterpump pee nozzle. Sadly though, getting to the drain screw is a bit of a pain. You need a long shaft slot screwdriver that fits perfectly or, otherwise, you can booger up the brass screw head. I keep a dedicated screwdriver just for draining the Honda carbs in my kit.

If you don't practice this "art of fuel removal" you will eventually have carb problems. You don't want carb problems!

Also, locate the "fuel chamber" mounted on the engine oil dipstick tube. Item 2 in the link below.

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...ha-vin-bamj-1400001-to-bamj-1499999/fuel-pump

At the end of every season, I recommend removing the chamber and shaking all the fuel out until it is dry. That chamber collects water condensate over time depending on the cleanliness of the fuel you use. That will cause you carb problems. You don't want carb problems on this fine outboard.

If you spray a little WD-40 on the dipstick tube and holder, it makes pulling the chamber off and putting it back on much easier.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'll try starting w/o choke today. I'll let it run dry and do the other things at times.

It's so hot here (100 mi W of San Antonio) that I'll only hit the water early. I would've gone out yesterday but woke up too late. I'm old and have a lot of sleep problems.

I might move to TN or another state.

I always put sea foam in the gas. I have a '73 9.8hp Mercury and '72 25hp Johnson that run. I replaced most of the ign on the 9.8 which I bought a few yrs ago for $50.
 
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Yes, I worked on carbs on cars and trucks most of my life. I wasn't the best at it and had to ask for help many times from the "gurus" that I knew of because, if you don't do it every day, it will never become "second nature" so to speak.

But I was succesful for the most part and thought I knew my stuff when I first ran into these little Keihin brand "jewels". I was immediately served a nice helping of "humble pie" to chew on as I worked on my first and then second versions of these. Learning by trial and mostly error.

It's not that they are terribly complicated or that special tools are needed. It's because they were designed to provide performance along with fuel savings as well as limit exhaust emissions as much as possible. A lot to ask for a little one barrel outboard carb.

They do their job quite well in my opinion (although I have no knowledge about the outboard's emissions numbers)

Once again, I found myself asking questions about them from a guru. My hero, hondadude (he no longer posts here) was that guru and he suggested getting the Honda Marine Carburetion Manual that he used to help understand them better.....available here:

https://publications.powerequipment.honda.com/marine

It's a great resource and excellent primer for anyone interested in repairing these little carburetors.

Also, I now know a little something about that "I'm old and it's hard to sleep" thing. Please let me know if moving to Tennesee..or....anywhere actually...turns out to be a remedy for those afflictions;>)

Good luck.
 
The last carb I worked on was a Rochester 2SE off a '81 Chevrolet C-10,250. I just lowered the float (it was a little too high) because it would die once in a while due to unmetered fuel dumping in. I had previously cleaned and checked the other stuff. Guy who has the Vice Grip Garage YouTube channel said it's not so hot a carburetor.

Others: lots of B&S and some Tecumsehs,one Honda lawnmower carb

Carter ThermoQuad from a '71 340

Rochester 1bbl from a '78 Chev. 250

The move would not be to improve sleep but to live near some woods and rivers.

32 years in this state but used to live in MD near the Chesapeake Bay.

Thanks for the information and chat. Have a fun weekend.

Rochester Q-jet from a '69 Buick 350
 
Well....

....SHUXX!!

You sound like you ARE the GURU! ;>)






"BATCHES?? WE DOHN'T NEED NO STINKIN' BATCHES!!"
 
Not a guru...just a noob spouting off. I remember that movie.

Thanks for always being helpful.

I tried starting it w/o choke and it didn't respond although I only gave it 2 or 3 pulls.
 
Hmmm...
Well, it's new and not close to being broken in yet so, as I mentioned before, you will probably end up going through a "bonding period" with it and I predict it will work out over time as you learn it's quirks. I probably don't need to tell you that they all do have some.

Just keep an eye on the cable "boot" where it takes a sweeping 90° turn going into the carb. Make sure that valve portion is snug tight where it threads into the carb body and that the boot doesn't develop any cracks and doesn't bulge when you pull and push the choke knob. That little curved boot is typically where enrichment problems begin. But I wouldn't think that for a new engine like yours.

I really love the BF 20 D and I think that it can't be beat as first 4 stroke choice.

Good luck.
 
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