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Need melted part identified

L

ldv5379

New member
1985 procraft 1750 v i forgot to unhook my negative when tightening the battery side of solenoid and caused a short. Now the trim/tilt doesnt work and the key doesnt work when turned. the trim/tilt switch is good. I was checking the ignition switch and when I open the control box there was a round part next to the ignition switch that was melted. There are two connections on the back. The only markings I can see are CA1T18. I need to know what this part is so I can get a replacement.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/2h99ieYnpJEQ5cT2A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SnXqY5s1kQzZS8yM7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oysisR2wXdbT5rUS7
 
ldv5379 said:
1985 procraft 1750 v i forgot to unhook my negative when tightening the battery side of solenoid and caused a short. Now the trim/tilt doesnt work and the key doesnt work when turned. the trim/tilt switch is good. I was checking the ignition switch and when I open the control box there was a round part next to the ignition switch that was melted. There are two connections on the back. The only markings I can see are CA1T18. I need to know what this part is so I can get a replacement.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/2h99ieYnpJEQ5cT2A

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SnXqY5s1kQzZS8yM7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oysisR2wXdbT5rUS7
Click to expand...
Do you have a multimeter and if so, do you know how to measure voltage and resistance? Follow the wiring from the battery to the dash and when you stop seeing it, find the reason.

Did you test the battery? It may have been close to discharged before but now that the current was dumped by the wrench, it may be too low to crank. Use a wire to jump the battery + post to the crank wire (the thin one, probably yellow with a red tracer). If it cranks, measure the resistance between the crank wire terminal and the other end on the ignition switch. You can also check the neutral safety switch- this doesn't require you to crank, just shift between forward/neutral and reverse/neutral.
 
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