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need help with volvo penta 280 vibration

R

rcandmusicplus

New member
Hello everyone! i need help figuring out a problem. Let me start by giving how it started. Just got back from catalina into longbeach(10mph top at 4000rpms). I decided to give more rpm to get back quicker when all of a sudden there was a lot of vibration. I also think i heard a pop but not sure. I loaded boat on trailer then went home. I decided to take it out onto local lake just for a family cruise but soon realize i had no power to prop. at idle and in gear it went forward or reverse but as soon as i start to give it power, i still moved same speed at idle. Of course vibration was there. (15x17 prop). I assume tranny went out and had it rebuilt. It was not engaging fully and there was play in between gears. I felt strongly that was the problem, so i put together everything, went to lake again and still had same problem. I finally look at prop and rubber insert was melted. (that took care of thrusting problem) i replace with 15x19spare i had. It only top out at 16mph and still no plaining with vibration. Vibration is there in or out of gear. Can anyone give me advice as too what it could be. My boat is a 1977 reinell cabin cruiser with flybridge. Has gm 350 5.7l and volvo penta 280. Also, what should the top speed be? Thanks to anyone whom can help.
 
From what I'm reading, and from what you describe, you may have two issues.

The "slip" that you describe may indicate a bad prop hub or prop blades that have become damaged.
The fact that the spare prop did propell the boat supports this.

The vibration that continues (even while in neutral) would indicate PDS Bearings (PDS = primary drive shaft) or drive shaft bearing crosses (aka universal joints).
With your year model, you have a 2 bearing PDS.
The AFT-Most bearing has very likely given up the ghost.
With the 2 bearing PDS, the engine must be removed in order to remove and replace the shaft/bearings.

Here is an example of your "flywheel cover" (aka bell housing in the auto world) and your PDS.

Both owners and mechanics fail to lubricate and/or replace these bearings at the prescribed interval.
Damage here can be severe.... ranging from damaged PDS, damaged universal drive shaft, and occasionally damaged front clamping collar on the transmission.


I'd suggest that you may plans to remove the engine and replace these two bearings/seals.
I'd also suggest that you replace the Universal Shaft bearing crosses, drive shaft bellows, water neck fitting, and all O-rings involved.
On this age V-8 powered 280 drive, I'd also recommend that you have the transmission over-hauled.
  • complete re-seal.
  • new bearing crosses.
  • main drive gear bearings (at least pull the gear and examine these).
  • vertical shaft split ring keeper (the 280 uses a brass keeper.... and it is likely expanded by now).
Here is what a damaged flywheel cover will look like if this were to continue.
Of course this does not show any other potential damage that may occur to the drive shaft and/or transmission collar.
None of this damage is a pretty sight nor cheap to repair if let go unattended! (it will not get better, it will only become worse)

I've put together a thread that should offer you some information on this.
Any questions.... shoot me a PM and email address.
 

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PS..... and an after thought.

I know that pulling your engine for PDS bearing replacement does not sound like fun.
However, these are usually among the easiest engines to R&R.
Do this now, and you'll never know what serious damage you may avoid in the future.

I'd leave the flywheel cover connected to the transom shield, and I'd pull all four lag bolts from the engine towers.
The engine flange will seperate from the F/C.... and requires approx 1-1/2" of FWD movement to disengage the Borg Warner shaft splines from the engine coupler.

This prevents you from fighting the engine mounts, and from any re-adjustment during re-installation (unlike a Gimbal system drive).


.
 
Thank you rick That is all helpfull. Today disconnected the transmission from the drive to rule out u-joints. As i started the motor, i looked at the shaft while it was spinning and notice it was spinning in a complete straight manor. Vibration was still there so decided to do timing just to rule that out just in case. My gut is telling me it is in the bellhousing area. I tought about purchasing a new harmonic balancer to rule that out but it does feel like vibration is in the rear. besides bearings back there, is there something that is balance. I do recall hearing a pop or bang then vibration. I did not see anything in or on the floor. Also, what could be causing me to only go 16 mph at 4200rpm. Is that the top speed for this kind of boat? Oh before i forget, i grab the shaft and shook it, wiggled it etc to see if it even budge. which it did not. The hardest part about taking out engine is how high the boat is on the trailer. Thanks Again Rick, anything helps.
 
Thank you rick. Email me anytime [email protected] (edgar) that scares me thinking theres more to this. I made plans with brother in laws neighbor to use his fork lift to take out motor. I really hope its the bearings. Would that cause the boat to only go 16mph top speed? I have a 15x19 prop on and max out at 4200rpms. Motor surges after that. When i had the 15x17 prop we only went 10 mph. Is that normal for a 1977 reinell cabin cruiser with flybridge?
 
Like said.... I think that you have two separate issues here.
I did shoot you an email with my phone number.

We can come back to your thread here later, and update it.
I think that it's important to make cures and fixes available to the on-lookers. :D That is IF WE FIX IT! LOL
 
Hi rick! I was looking at the schematics to see what i parts i need to order. I am ready to seperate the motor but before i do that, i want the parts i need. Can you look at the schematic you sent me and tell me which numbers i need to order. I see i need 2 number 40 one 66 and 70. Is that all i'll need? Thanks again
 
You'll need at least 1 SEQ #40 (p/n 804190) for the Flywheel Cover side... not necessarily the AFT-most side.... but not a bad idea to replace both.
The rubber cushion ring on the flywheel cover side does the water sealing..... aft ring acts as an engine mount cushion only.

SEQ #70 and #66 are nothing more than a good quality 6007 and 6206 open ball bearing w/ Volvo's p/n on it.
These could be SKF, KOYO, etc, ................. anything but Chinese........ 'bout $12-14 each if purchased from a good bearing supplier.
These must be open bearings for any future grease to do any good. (same bearing comes sealed w/ an extention p/n on it)
You'll want "open" bearings for the 2 bearing PDS that offers the grease fitting on the F/C!

The 2 seals are a single lip, 35x62x7mm, in a TCM or Timken..... 'bout $4 each if purchased from a good bearing supplier.

Be sure to pre-fill the grease cavity prior to installing the two seals.
Good high pressure bearing grease... NO green Marine Wheel Bearing grease if you want the good stuff here!
Do not mix greases in the future..... if incompatible, they will turn liquid like.

Front seal glued in place (cannot risk this seal being pushed out of position) ..... aft seal installed in the non-conventional direction.

You'll also want to align the engine (and exhaust risers to Y-pipe) prior to final tightening of the six clamping ring bolts.
I use Perfect Seal on these bolt threads to prevent future water intrusion that may corrode these threads.

Good luck with it! :cool:

.
 
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