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Need a lesson in cylinder drop testing 2000 Johnson J200VXSSS OceanPro 200HP

Just need a quick lesson in how to perform the cylinder drop test on the V6 looper i've begun chasing a problem on. Im not able to exceed 4700 RPM and have already completed a compression test which was 95 psi on for cylinders and 92 psi on the bottom two cylinders after warm up. Engine idles fine at about 700 RPM after dripping out of quick start which is about 1100 RPM. I have inspected and re-gapped all plugs, they all appear to show good burn, cleaned up all connections from power pack to the individual coils and checked the resistance of all coils. Checked the plug wires with a fluke meter all are good. completed a spark gap test and the spark on all cylinders was able to jump a gap of .375 inches and with strong color. New bypass valve was installed and two new thermostats the head temperatures on either side of the V are within 5 degrees of each other and I replaced the water pump last season and pisser is still strong.....
 
Run mtr about 2000 rpm and pull one plug lead at a time You should have an equal rpm drop on all cylinders. The one that doesn't drop is the bad one.
 
Just need a quick lesson in how to perform the cylinder drop test on the V6 looper i've begun chasing a problem on. Im not able to exceed 4700 RPM and have already completed a compression test which was 95 psi on for cylinders and 92 psi on the bottom two cylinders after warm up. Engine idles fine at about 700 RPM after dripping out of quick start which is about 1100 RPM. I have inspected and re-gapped all plugs, they all appear to show good burn, cleaned up all connections from power pack to the individual coils and checked the resistance of all coils. Checked the plug wires with a fluke meter all are good. completed a spark gap test and the spark on all cylinders was able to jump a gap of .375 inches and with strong color. New bypass valve was installed and two new thermostats the head temperatures on either side of the V are within 5 degrees of each other and I replaced the water pump last season and pisser is still strong.....
Up to today, I had a similar problem with a 2000 Johnson 150 Oceanpro which would not exceed 4900rpm. After replacing plugs, checking linkages for fully open positions at maximum throttle, raising the engine so that the av plate 3/4 inch higher than the keel, I focussed on my fuel line. I am using a Sceptre primer bulb which has single crimped clamps on each end. Thinking that I might be getting air ingress there at wot, I replaced these clamps with gear hose clamps. Now I have no problem reaching 5500 rpm at wot. I hope this works for you!
 
Up to today, I had a similar problem with a 2000 Johnson 150 Oceanpro which would not exceed 4900rpm. After replacing plugs, checking linkages for fully open positions at maximum throttle, raising the engine so that the av plate 3/4 inch higher than the keel, I focussed on my fuel line. I am using a Sceptre primer bulb which has single crimped clamps on each end. Thinking that I might be getting air ingress there at wot, I replaced these clamps with gear hose clamps. Now I have no problem reaching 5500 rpm at wot. I hope this works for you!

I'm using the BRP fuel primer bulb one year old (actually middle last summer less than one year) although I'm using their toy plastic clamps, I'm launching the boat tommorow and I'm going to take your advice and purchase 2 stainless clamps and run that baby with the hammer down and see what I get......I will get back to you tommorow night....all my replacement parts are bought thru boats.net and I only use OEM.....
 
I'm back up to my regular RPM (5200) with a 19 pitch prop turns out my leaky blowoff valve on the top of the block was contaminating the coil packs connections on the port side of the V6 cleaned off all the corrosion on the terminals from the powerpack added a touch of dielectric grease on each terminal and walla, was also able to try a 15 x 17 prop and I was able to hit 5500 RPMs, ready for fishing......
 
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