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Mystery CE Light on '99 70HP Evinrude

W

willcox

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After Long MI winter finally got time to put the pontoon in. Ran it on muffs in my drive for about 20 minutes at various RPM with no issues. Very surprised that it started right up with not a cough or complaint. Trucked it over to the ramp and ran it there for another 15 minutes with no issues (Just to be sure) before I set off for home dock. About half way there (5 minutes running at no wake, and 5 more running at about 1/2 throttle) I got the CE light and 30 second buzzer. Immediately went down to idle and checked the water flow which seemed normal waited about a minute, then got underway at about 1/4 throttle. In about 2 min. same thing, and I shut it down, waited a minute and checked for codes before start-up. Nothing, no Codes, no lights after the first run through. Tried again starting at 1/4 throttle and opened to about 3/4 throttle and in about 2 minutes, same thing. Drifted for about 10 minutes this time full off and looked for codes again .... nothing. Repeated this process all the way to home dock and left it for 2 weeks.

Last week-end took it out again. No codes at start up, started beautiful and ran smooth, but after about 15 minutes of running at 1/4 throttle, same process. Again the water seems to be pumping fine and the motor sounds good and runs smooth. I am wondering if there may be a sensor issue, or perhaps a small intermittent emissions issue. Last Fall I changed the impeller and checked the whole bottom end for any restrictions in the water pipe and all seemed clear. Changed both the motor oil and the LU oil before storage, as well as a light fogging in the pistons before wrapping for the winter.

I just purchased this boat and motor late last summer and spent the rest of the summer and most of Autumn chasing an Overheat warning. Spent a few hundred and four weeks with the shop in town where they simply replaced the temp sensor. Had them come out for a test run when the light was still coming on after service. They could never find the problem and it just worked itself out by fall just in time for storage. I am not looking to repeat this process all over again this year with a new light so any suggestions would be helpful.
 
I retired in 1991 so the design and circuitry of your engine is no doubt somewhat changed from what I'm used to... "However"... What caught my eye in your write up was the mention of a "30 second buzzer".

Are you saying that you received a beeping every 30 seconds... OR... are you saying that you receive a buzzing for a solid 30 seconds, then the buzzer stopped beeping?

In either case, that wouldn't indicate a overheating problem and I doubt if there would be any change in the warning horn setup, BUT if so, I'm sure that the other knowledgeable techs will get back to me and I'll stand corrected.

(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.


2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)


3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1


********************
 
OK .... Great feed-back here.
The Buzzer is a constant signal (30 seconds is a guess, it could be a full minute, but definitely not a beep), then a full stop.
The Buzzer does sound one beep at key turn before it runs through all the lights once, so that seems to be fine.
The numbers on the motor: "Engine Family: X1PXM0079220" (Which I do believe is the Suzuki from my research last year)
I have found other information for these Evenrude/Suzuki motors that a fuel restriction can cause this, which you guys seem to agree with.
I'll start there and check the connections and lines this week-end and see what I find and let you all know.

If I manage to find the diagnostics and connector wire, is it likely the ECM is keeping a code that is not being displayed at start-up? (Just planning ahead)

Thanks for the help.
 
Diagnostic program and connector adapter will DO YOU NO GOOD. It is junk.
Do not waste your money (JMHO).

Your transom mount tag will have E70PL4EEC on it....that is the model number and this "Engine family:" stuff you posted is useless to us, and to you too, for that matter.

You can read codes off the tach, key on, and wait for the check engine light to blink the codes.

I will go to my shop this afternoon, and look up all codes that set the Check Engine light to ON and post them up later today.
 
OK, here are the codes, and associated lights.
I cannot format this to look readable, so I padded the spaces with periods.
I hope you can make it out.

Failed Item............................Code.............Light................S.L.O.W. Status

Map Sensor 1 .......................... 34..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
CKP Sensors ........................... 42...... Check Engine .......... No SLOW
IAC Valve / Idle Air Screw.......... 31..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
CMP Sensor.............................. 24..... Check Engine .......... No SLOW

CTP Switch.............................. 22..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
Cyl Temp Sensor...................... 14..... TEMP.......... ............ SLOW
IAT Sensor.............................. 23..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
Map Sensor 2 .......................... 32..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
Reg/ Rectifier........................... 11..... Check Engine.......... No SLOW
Manifold Overheat..................... 15..... TEMP...................... SLOW
Low Battery Voltage............................ Check Engine.......... No SLOW
Over rev sensor.............................................................. SLOW
Oil Pressure Switch.............................. No Oil.................... SLOW
Neutral Start Switch.......................................................... NO SLOW
 
daselbee said:
I wonder why these guys never respond.
I went to great lengths to post the above information, and nothing.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it is disturbing. I usually enclose "Let us know what you find"... some do, most don't but it doesn't bother me anymore due to more pressing matters. What bothers me most is when we know from experience what the problem is and go to extremes to give the answer, step by step... and they do reply BUT go off in some opposite direction that was given to them in some dream last night. :) That's usually when I leave the conference.
 
Had some folks stop by a few years ago.----------Said they were only stopping by to pass on a " thank you " from someone.---------Said that the rebuilt motor had not " missed a beat " in 5 years.---------But internet / modern / computer folks are different.
 
Not looking for a thank you. Looking to find out the status of the motor, and the guy's problem.

I noticed in the list of codes above, down at the bottom, the low voltage fault.....it does not set a code, but it does set the check engine light.
That MIGHT be his issue.

I just want to know the status.
 
Hey daselbee and others here, thank you for posting that technical information. It helped me diagnose a friends ‘98 Johnson with failed reg/rectifier. I usually find everything I need on here by searching old posts, thought it was worth mentioning your time to provide diagnostic information from a professional level is much appreciated!
 
Hello, I have a 1999 E70 stroke doing the exact same thing. I have tried to hire several mechanics and none want to work on it. I have basically swapped parts to no avail. IAC Valve, Map sensor, cylinder head sensor, High and low pressure fuel pumps, checked and ruled out neutral circuit, and yes, even the ECU. Still check engine light on and when key on and engine off, check engine led quick flashes 2, pause, then-5 pause,-5 pause to infinity. Engine cranks and idles fine, once diagnostics clears, it will not go over 3400rpm. However, I can fool it. If I full throttle as soon as it starts, and before it can go through its normal diagnostic, it will go to full 5800 rpm. After the diagnostic completes, while on plane, it will run for about a 1/4 mile and start loosing rpm's slowly until it reaches 3400 where it acts if it is in rev limit. At anytime during the rpm loss, I can switch the key off then back on quickly and it will go back to full throttle/rpm, then the cycle all over again. It seems to be a sure electrical issue. I have not replaced the regulator/rectifier yet. I also have not replaced the battery or any wiring. Since the boats starts strong, I just assume it is not an issue with the battery or cables. Was hoping that Inlander could verify if your friends engine was having these same symptoms?
 
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