Re: My PDS is out, now what?
My PDS is out, now what?
You install the new bearing and re-install the PDS into the Flywheel Cover!
Ed, I think that you can do your new bearing crosses if you proceed slowly and carefully.
Most all exploded views can intimidate us! Parts are shown everywhere..... dotted lines leading to who knows where.... looks like they are out of sequence, etc, etc,
..... but don't let that scare you!
Nothing is going to spring out or pop out at you.... except this guy!
Seriously, it will appear to be more simple once in there.
The bearing box on your transmission is an integral unit (one pc aluminum) and when removed (via four 3/8" cap screws seq#16), it will come out as an assembly (seq#30 through seq#25)
One, all inclusive, attached assembly.... no worries!
Once the yoke bolt (seq#30) is removed, the universal drive shaft can now be removed from the main drive gear (main drive gear remains in the b/b.... it won't fall out!)
The main drive gear bearing pre-load on your GI-PMDA transmission is crush sleeve controlled, apposed to the earlier ones that are shim controlled (as I think Gary is referring to).
It will use the same basic seal surface part, that Gary is referring to, but w/ no shims here!
IOW's the pre-load control, for a GI-PMDA transmission, is via this crush sleeve. Crush sleeves are typically a
one-time-use only!
Upon re-assembly, if you were to bring the yoke bolt (seq # 30) back to it's original torque value, you will be OK.
However, learning what this bolt's torque value was (prior to disassembly)
is the tricky part!
We can take a rolling torque measurement prior to removing the bolt!
(Do a search on checking rolling torque values.... it's actually quite simple to take the reading!)
So, the risk that I have cautioned you of earlier, would be in not meeting this value, and/or exceeding this value, inadvertently changing the bearing rolling torque value. (with the type that Gary was discussing, it's very easy... same shims/same value!)
Ed, if you are going to error..... error on the side of a very slight increase to this value..... hence the crush-sleeve becomes crushed a wee bit more.
NOTE: This is not a procedure that would be covered in your OEM manaul..... so you're sortta on your own here.... and is where some hypoid gear experience would be helpful.
Can you do this? I think so, but again, just go slowly and pay close attention to what you are doing. You will be fine.
I'd probably not do this without inspecting these main drive gear bearings.... which takes this to a slightly different level. But again, you can do this without concerning yourself
unless you were to feel some wear in the bearings.
For me, this is of particular importance with V-8 torque/horse power. Again, your call!
Yes to mild heat at the main gear case in the event that any of the four bolt threads are corroded.... generally on this drive and with this style shim pack....., these threads remain dry, and are A-OK.
But any heat also expands the main case some, making the integrated bearing box/clamping collar come out much easier (this is a very tight tolerance fit)
The bearing box shims (seq # 19) will be very self explanatory... handle them carefully... they bend easily.
There will be one O-ring on the bearing box that must be replaced.
There will be a total of four other O-rings needed for when the trans is reinstalled and filled with oil.
(We cannot reuse O-rings!)
The bearing cross replacement itself is very straight forward once the universal shaft is out.
If not using OEM, a Neapco 1-0005 will work as a replacement (watch out where the zerk is located... it cannot be in the bearing cap)
Any brand but Chinese, IMO.
I also would not do this without replacing the shift mechanism seal and O-ring (seq#s 51 & 54) ..... (this seal is a common source of water intrusion as these age) This seal is directional!
Eduardo or Gay..... if you guys have any other suggestions, by all means chime back in. More minds the better!
Good luck, Ed.... hope you get back in the water soon.
