"I have a 1990 Bayliner with a
"I have a 1990 Bayliner with a 3.0L Mercruiser Inboard -- it's been a good, inexpensive boat that I've had for 7 years. Well, I didn't drain the engine in time last winter and, sure enough, the block cracked. Ugh!
The cheapest "turn-key" estimate for a 'real' fix was $3400 for a long block replacement and labor. Instead, I did a little research and decided to try and patch it myself since I figured there wasn't much to lose.
1) I dropped the exhaust manifold and there it was -- a 5-6 inch crack at the top of the block.
2) Took a dremel tool and slowly cleaned the cast iron area around the crack. Used acetone to remove any remaining residue.
3) Mixed JB Weld according to the instructions and worked it into the crack with a toothpick. Waited ten minutes and applied JB Weld over the whole area with a razor blade.
4) Let everything dry overnight (16 hours).
5) Reassembled the exhaust manifold to the block using the old gasket and the riser exhaust connection using a high-temp rated "squeeze-tube".
6) Hooked up the hose to the water intake adapter cup and started up the engine in my driveway. No leaks. Ran it at idle for 10 minutes and still no leaks. Checked the oil and everything looked fine.
7) Headed to lake and put her on the water. Ran the engine for about four hours. No leaks, no water in the oil ... everything seemed just like old times!
Did I escape the bullet? Or am I just buying time? For $20 and a little labor, seems like any additional time I get out of the engine is a good bonus. Hope this helps someone else.
Cracked Engine Block"">
Patched Engine Block"">
Off to the lake
"I have a 1990 Bayliner with a 3.0L Mercruiser Inboard -- it's been a good, inexpensive boat that I've had for 7 years. Well, I didn't drain the engine in time last winter and, sure enough, the block cracked. Ugh!
The cheapest "turn-key" estimate for a 'real' fix was $3400 for a long block replacement and labor. Instead, I did a little research and decided to try and patch it myself since I figured there wasn't much to lose.
1) I dropped the exhaust manifold and there it was -- a 5-6 inch crack at the top of the block.
2) Took a dremel tool and slowly cleaned the cast iron area around the crack. Used acetone to remove any remaining residue.
3) Mixed JB Weld according to the instructions and worked it into the crack with a toothpick. Waited ten minutes and applied JB Weld over the whole area with a razor blade.
4) Let everything dry overnight (16 hours).
5) Reassembled the exhaust manifold to the block using the old gasket and the riser exhaust connection using a high-temp rated "squeeze-tube".
6) Hooked up the hose to the water intake adapter cup and started up the engine in my driveway. No leaks. Ran it at idle for 10 minutes and still no leaks. Checked the oil and everything looked fine.
7) Headed to lake and put her on the water. Ran the engine for about four hours. No leaks, no water in the oil ... everything seemed just like old times!
Did I escape the bullet? Or am I just buying time? For $20 and a little labor, seems like any additional time I get out of the engine is a good bonus. Hope this helps someone else.
