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Motor trouble (anything helps)

Carsonorm

New member
So I got a 1952 evinrude lightwin that I've been trying to get started. I cleaned fuel tank, cleaned the spark plugs, taken the carb off, then took off the bowl and sprayed the crap out of the whole carb with carb cleaner. Then took the bottom assembly off and cleaned the shaft and the water pump. I've changed gear oil then I got it all back together. It has good fuel flow and compression (I think). I crank it with a drill and all it does is pop every once and a while but it just doesn't start. I have spark so it's not an electrical issue. And I let seafoam soak in the cylinders, but all that happened is random popping and smoking while cranking it. But I just cant get it started. Being only 15 I dont have the most experience so if you all could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful. Thanks
 
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If the coils haven't already been replaced, they need to be. All ​ 1952 Evinrudes have bad (cracked) coils if the originals are still in there. "Has spark" means nothing in this case.
 

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If the coils haven't already been replaced, they need to be. All ​ 1952 Evinrudes have bad (cracked) coils if the originals are still in there. "Has spark" means nothing in this case.

I just assumed 1952 since the vim lookup says between 1952-1954 but I'll look into that
 
More reasons a model # should be demanded by website before allowing a post.-----Agreed,------ spark on a plug laying on the block means nothing.
 
Okay, these are fun little motors, got a dozen of them. You will see from Gators post, a photo of commonly cracked original coils. They would provide spark, but usually not to the plugs, but arc down underneath them into the stator plate. I have a box full of them. Some are not cracked at all, but are shorting out internally, providing intermittent spark. To check the coils performance it is best to make a Joe Reeves spark tester. He may come on here as these are his specialty. Check compression with a gauge you can borrow at the auto parts store.....you probably don't have one, like me when I was 15. Then with the info gained we can continue this repair with you. Keep up the good work.
 
Right, don't wanna scare away our young mechanic.....we were all there once too. My Dad taught me to check spark with a new spark plug, but it HAD to be a hot blue spark......not any orange in it. He also checked by just turning the flywheel quickly by hand, rather than pull a rope. Not a bad technique. Things have to be pretty correct when you get a hot blue spark at .025 inch and your spinning the flywheel with only your hand. This was back in the 60's. Dad is my hero....pictured here.
 
Okay, these are fun little motors, got a dozen of them. You will see from Gators post, a photo of commonly cracked original coils. They would provide spark, but usually not to the plugs, but arc down underneath them into the stator plate. I have a box full of them. Some are not cracked at all, but are shorting out internally, providing intermittent spark. To check the coils performance it is best to make a Joe Reeves spark tester. He may come on here as these are his specialty. Check compression with a gauge you can borrow at the auto parts store.....you probably don't have one, like me when I was 15. Then with the info gained we can continue this repair with you. Keep up the good work.


Thanks, where would I find how to make a spark tester
 
Also how would you get the bolt covering the coils off, it's pretty cranked down

I assume you mean flywheel nut. And that opens a whole 'nuther topic. To do this job right, you need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel, a flywheel puller to get it off, and a torque wrench to put it back on at the proper tightness. There are other ways to do it on the cheap, many of which will cause damage. Redneck way of getting the nut off without a strap wrench is whack the nut wrench handle with a hammer in the direction it needs to turn. You can put it back on the same way, guessing at the torque, but it is almost guaranteed you'll get it wrong. Hey, you are learning, so you might as well learn to do it right. Or deal with the damage you did.

EDIT: There are plenty of videos on you-tube telling how to do it. Some are good, some are not.
 
To get the nut off, I have a cheap thing that is longer than a spark plug and threads into the spark plug hole, (can likely get at a chainsaw repair shop.) When the piston comes up, it stops when it hits that thing. It is easy to loosen the nut then......IF IT WAS PREVIOUSLY TORQUED PROPERLY. Rarely have I found that this little spark plug hole tool will not do the job. A small flywheel/gear puller is cheap too. Have you got a Harbor Freight in your area. Then go get some good quality 1/4" NC bolts about 2 1/2 inches long with strong flat washers.....will need 3 sets. You can then get off the flywheel to replace the coils, etc. To torque the flywheel back down is pretty easy. We will help you find proper torque specs and you will need a torque wrench that uses one of your 3/8" or 1/2" drive sockets. Torque wrenches are cheap too. Check Harbor Freight too.
 
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You can make a strap wrench that is better than anything you can buy. And virtually free if you have the materials laying around. Take a piece of common 2 x 2 lumber and nail a piece of nylon strap to it. Will not slip on the largest motors made.
 

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Nice, Gator. I'm gonna make one, got some strapping and screws with a nice piece of red oak. Its never to late to teach an old dog new tricks. I suppose an adjustable strap could help make it more versatile too. Just look around the basement, wife Raquel collects bags......she won't miss just one strap....right?
 
Look closely at the picture showing it in use. See how the strap doubles back on itself to compensate for flywheel size? Shown on a 5.5hp, same strap fits a 40hp.
 
I get it, like one of those cheap oil filter wrenches. You should see my spark tester. Makes your invention look like an Apollo spacecraft.
 
You can make a strap wrench that is better than anything you can buy. And virtually free if you have the materials laying around. Take a piece of common 2 x 2 lumber and nail a piece of nylon strap to it. Will not slip on the largest motors made.

Now ya'tell me!.... Where tha'hell were you in 1983? :)
 
No patent here. I thought everybody knew about these. I first saw one when I went to work in a lawn mower shop in 1954. I was 17.
 
I've always done things the hard way, but try to keep it simple. (KIS) Getting older and wiser, but plenty room for improvement. I started about 15 years after you, some of the simple tools were forgotten. I've created a similar tool to use on tires that are too narrow for the rim.....to "catch" the bead. Starting fluid is fun and exciting, but expensive now. My tire work includes bigger equipment too and when doing tubeless, especially bias ply, it can be tough work to get the bead to make that initial seal.
 
Here is your spark tester.

Just two bolts with 2 nuts each to hold them in place. Just screw them until they are about 3/8" apart from the top metal piece, or whatever you are going for. Put the spark plug boots on the bottom end of the bolts and clip the alligator clip, that is attached to a piece of aluminum or steel, to a good ground on the engine. A little electrical tape backing it so you can see the spark good. It works great.

If I had to make another one I might make the wood a little longer on the left side so the holder can hold wood without the fear of touching any metal. These things put out high voltages. Since someone needs to pull hard on the starter rope usually it requires someone else to hold the spark tester.

As for the home made strap wrench. Most of the nylon I came across seemed to want to stretch so much under the very high torques these things require, so I used an old outdoor electrical extension cord for one of mine and it had no problem holding the flywheel in place while I unscrewed the center bolt and when I torqued the bolt back down again.
 

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Nice tester and adjustable. I like that dark chamber idea. How about an old serpentine belt for the "Gator" strap wrench?
 
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