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makomark

makomark

Gold Medal Contributor
"I found some time to tackle m

"I found some time to tackle my sheared of lag bolt earlier today. Made some progress with a cobalt bit as the lag is stainless.

I noticed that the motor mount adjusters (at least the front ones) have frozen. My suspicion is that the metal has rusted and thus bound the adjusters. Besides replacement, any ideas on getting the adjuster moving?

If it matters, these are the older, off-white nylon (hard plastic) type, not the newer, black-colored ones. 1986 vintage 454 CID model 350."
 
"ALL of the motor mount adjust

"ALL of the motor mount adjusters on both of my engines were rusted and frozen. Had to remove the entire assemblies to wire brush and coat them with anti-seize. That's boating!

Good luck drilling the lag bolt out. I hope you're starting with a small drill then going larger? Easier that way, but DON'T break off a drill bit in the bolt or...

Jeff"
 
New mounts are pretty expensiv

New mounts are pretty expensive. I have been using aluminum plates as shims. Not easy to adjust though!
 
"Dave: front mounts don't

"Dave: front mounts don't appear too bad $$ but the rear ones sure are...guess that's "supply and demand" using today's economic rules. I'll see if I can find a pair of tapered plates if we opt to be economical.

Jeff: How did you get the threaded part moving? Also, did you remove the 'rubber cushion', at the bottom of the threaded part or just keep it together?"
 
"I may have a couple new front

"I may have a couple new fronts lying around (#97926).

They are $37.27 ea. but e-mail me if you're interested, I'll make you a deal on what I have."
 
update: got the busted remnant

update: got the busted remnant of the lag out this evening!

Got the mount off earlier this week. The lag was broke off ~ 3/4" BELOW the top of the stringer. The mount appears serviceable except for the lack of adjustment. We'll see if it frees up tomorrow.

Removal - drilled 1/8 hole as close to center & plumb as possible. opened that up to 1/4" to match the generic e-z-out selected. tapped it in and the 6mm wrench started to open up. switched to small cresent with the handle from the hydraulic jack. Lag let loose with ~ 25 ft*lb of torque on it. it backed out straight-forward from there.

I think the key was use of cobalt drill bits as the lag was stainless. the offset drill is only one speed so used some oil ac oil for lubricant. drilled for no more than 5 seconds and then let it cool ~ 30-45 seconds and repeat. The 1/8" bit was in ~1" in less than 15 minutes. The 1/4" hole took much longer as it would get hot in a couple of seconds. Lesson learned - cobalt bits are expensive but effective.
 
"Jeff,
I love that statemen

"Jeff,
I love that statement about your garage. I know the feeling so well. If it were easy to remove the fly bridge and get the boat down my dirt road, it would be behind my house all winter long and ready for the spring boat show as an ENTRY !

I have made several parts and pieces that required fitting adjustments and that just takes the UMMPH right out of you."
 
Fastjeff:

I've had no l

Fastjeff:

I've had no luck frreeing the adjuster from the ring and trunnion. Any suggestions for doing this that you (or anybody else) would recommend?
 
"got the new mount installed a

"got the new mount installed and move the engine to satisfy the alignment criteria and found another surprise. the inboard lag bolt was just like his buddy - snapped below the stringer.

Lesson learned - use galvanized lags, not stainless.

Another item of note - both the front mounts had seen their service life. The washer on top of the sleeve was distorted. Best as I could tell, the rubber has exerted steady upward force along the OD. I'm gonna take the first one apart and see what they are made of in the hidden areas."
 
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