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J

jclays

Regular Contributor
"Going thru my punch list of s

"Going thru my punch list of stuff to do since purchasing my boat 2 1/2 years ago. 1966 Californian twin 350 Crusaders. Its time to address the manifolds. Scale rust at the seam of the manifold to elbow (Raw sea water cooled old style NO risers straight shot)will be removing the elbows this weekend one at a time to check their condition. Anything in the manifolds that I need to be concerned with?? Ive found the castings on one. Its a Sierra 12-93 I believe the numbers to be the date of casting.
Question #2 What make manifold is better or does it matter listed by price that ive found Osco,Barr,Sierra being the most expensive.
Again I do not have an overheating problem. However Ive found no thermostats or pressure relief valves on either engine's housing.Hmmmm boat runs cool doesnt even lift the needle on the temp gauge off the 120degree mark. Infra red heat gun scan of the manifolds are at 113 to 116 degrees. 145 degrees at the exhaust point at the head. Sorry if this post sounds redundant. Know allot about cars this is my first boat and some things are different."
 
"Any good brand will do--I use

"Any good brand will do--I use OSCO myself.

You MUST have an engine thermostat of some kind or the motor will sludge up.

Be sure to clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly, and tap out the holes in the head if they need it. And spring for all new bolts, with anti-seize on the threads.

Jeff"
 
"yes, all of what Jeff said.

"yes, all of what Jeff said. I will also say, thru a lot of trial and error to NOT always follow the Osco's directions for installation. First off, their product is fine. However, they insist on several process steps that are not what I follow. They say don't use any teflon based sealants or tape. I've been able to safely ignore that, just don't overtorque the pipe thread fittings. Osco has an issue with using RTV. I can tell you that if you don't use a sealant at the manifold to riser or elbow joint, you WILL see rust there in short order in a SW boat. Use ultra copper or ultra black and wipe it on with your fingers to the thinnest degree possible, while still fully coloring the gasket, both sides. Use a fresh tube, without solid rtv particles in it. Don't use sealant on the head to manifold gasket, it stays dry. The other is SS fasteners. I've been able to get away with using SS manifold bolts, just fine. They WILL need retorquing after the first good run, after cooldown. Forget this, and you will likely see an exhaust blow-out later. And get your engines up to a higher operation temp!
For me, another difference between a salt water boat engine job and a car engine job is RUST and using lots of sand thru a sandblaster. I went thru 400 lbs of sand on my last boat engine job. Accessory brackets, xmission case, manifolds... And I only used a wire wheel on the block, heads, and other stuff that should not see any sand."
 
Im wondering why they were rem

Im wondering why they were removed on both engines. Im almost affraid to install them. Hopefully when the previous owners rebuilt the engines(years ago) they were just too lazy to get new ones. If they where removed for running too hot would it be clogged elbows in the manifold???
 
"I prefer Barr mostly driven b

"I prefer Barr mostly driven by source of supply.

The two posts above represent a lot of what I've found. Here a few areas with slight variations:

Sealer - I've found permatex #3 to function well with the gaskets having coolant contact.

Use a torque wrench on the flange bolts.

Had an issue with bolts lossening up, the manifold 'rolling over' and burning spark plug boots. Contacted Barr's Tech support group - their fix - Use the bolts without ANY kind of washer. Removed washers and re-torqued bolts and haven't have a burnt boot since.

Use a teflon rich pipe sealing compound on the drain plugs when you install them. Its a good idea to chase the threads if you have the pipe taps available; it is an essential step if you install the 'newer' plastic drain fittings.

When you install the thermostat, IF you have a sender or switch in the housing, ABOVE the gasket, it is good practice to use tha marine gasket with the continuity grommet in it."
 
"Mark, Jeff, Rick, Dave and ma

"Mark, Jeff, Rick, Dave and many others ( you know who you are)

I sincerely admire your attention to detail..! You can only begin to imagine the shortcuts we have all seen."
 
"I am re-reading the post I ju

"I am re-reading the post I just added. FOR THE RECORD: I has taken us over 3 complete seasons and 2 winters to undo the short cuts and neglect that our boat was subject too when we had acquired it. Some of the junk we ripped out was downright dangerous yet, someone thought it was perfectly fine. Even though our survey pointed out many irregularities, we found so many more by crawling in there and taking things apart.

I just wonder if the next owner will appreciate our insistance on it being 100% right compared to a glossy shinier newer boat, laden with issues....yeah sure"
 
"One last thing, just remember

"One last thing, just remembered. I installed a couple of short studs in each head to hold the gasket and manifold, before the long bolts are installed. I've been using blue thread seal on the studs, and have, so far, getting away with lockwashers, no flat washers on all 8. The stud trick really helps when single handing these things. I had to even put a drop of superglue on each end of the head facing gasket to keep them in place. They are headed down, and will slide off the studs just when positioning the manifolds!@#$."
 
I make temporary studs with so

I make temporary studs with some all thread to hold gaskets and parts in place untill I can start the rest of the bolts then I remove the all thread and replace them with the proper bolts. I was going to do this when I tackle the manifolds.Currently working on the raw water pump on the port side when I got courious and discovered the missing thermostats..Cant get the impeller to budge. soaking it in penetroll.
 
"I use the threaded studs tric

"I use the threaded studs trick as well, on both the manifolds to block (temporarily) and the risers to manifold (permanently). Much easier to get the gasket to "behave".

One more thing everyone forgot to add: re tightening the bolts after the motor gets good and hot. I've been able to add several more "flats" to bolts that were nice and tight cold.

Jeff"
 
"James:

I hope you don'

"James:

I hope you don't have the WHOLE pump soaking; if you do get it out. Submerging the whole pump in penetrating oil isn't good for the carbon part of the seal on the front of the shaft.

whatever you do, be careful not to score the shaft - that's one expensive piece. usually, all i have to do is get the key free and a bit of wd-40 to the vanes and the water pump pliers pull it out every time. If its really frozen, you can always break out the torch........."
 
Is there a wear point on the S

Is there a wear point on the Sherwood E-35 water pump housing itself that would prohibit a complete rebuild?
 
I was letting the penetrol see

I was letting the penetrol seep in between the shaft and key area of the pump. It was stuck badly. Had to cut the vanes off the impeller and still had a hell of a time with a puller. Finally got it out. The back end of the shaft looks like it had been beat on and had some of the carbon from the bushing of the rear cover plate on it. Some screw driver marks on the inside of the case. Old scars.Im debating buying a new one. Found them online for 259.00. Almost worth replacing for piece of mind.
 
"Al:

in general, I'd sa

"Al:

in general, I'd say yes. The more critical area of the housing is where the ends of the impellor vanes run. If there is enough scoring, the pump won't work correctly and the impellor won't last long. Most of the stuff that would score up the housing where the beads of the vanes run usually gets flushed out. The exception is the softer Cam material - that and the cover are replaceable items.

James:
if you have dial calipers or a 1" micrometer, measure the shaft to see if the hammer distorted things. Critical dimension is the diameter - any increases can be milled down, low spots, if small are tolerable. If the high areas are removed, the bushing will be damaged during assembly and subsequent use. Also, check that the shaft is true; that any hammering didn't bend it. that will chew up that bushing, too.

sherwood's web site has the whole overhaul instruction sheet online. I've got two 'running takeouts' if you are looking for 'cores' to rebuild."
 
"I got very lucky with this pu

"I got very lucky with this pump. I replaced them both and still have the old ones for spares as a rebuild. THEN, I found a new E-35 on eBay for $89.00 and bought it. With the new spare, and 2 MAJOR rebuilds, I feel prepared in this department."
 
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