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Minute Drain System

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kcjaz

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I'm considering the "Minute Drain" (http://www.minutedrain.com/) system as a means to make draining my enigine a little easier and let me boat into November as where I'm at we can still get some nice weather that late. The only thing I see as a risk with this system is if a block drain or one of the small hose drain fittings were to get plugged, you might not notice and still have water in there. If you take things apart to rod out with a wire, then your're defeating the purpose of the system which is convenience. Am I just worring too much? I'd like to hear from anyone who uses this system.
 
Don't waste 300 bucks. You can install hose barbs and ball valves for about 30.00
I have done this on numerous engines in about .5 hours.
At 300 you can spend a few hundred more and FWC your engine.
 
kcjaz said:
I'm considering the "Minute Drain" (http://www.minutedrain.com/) system as a means to make draining my enigine a little easier and let me boat into November as where I'm at we can still get some nice weather that late. The only thing I see as a risk with this system is if a block drain or one of the small hose drain fittings were to get plugged, you might not notice and still have water in there. If you take things apart to rod out with a wire, then your're defeating the purpose of the system which is convenience. Am I just worring too much? I'd like to hear from anyone who uses this system.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... These systems are nothing but cracked blocks waitin' to happen....

Since Merc started installing 'em from the factory, I've stripped several of 'em from some of the Mercs I service just for that reason...
 
Yep! These can be found on aisle 5 right next to "Engine Over-Haul-in-a-can", "rolling digital tape measures", "Engine tune-up-in-a-can", "Winterizing-made-easy" (ya know, the flush kits that introduce antifreeze up through the sea water path) and several more wonderful products.

If there was one ounce of accountability or responsibility behind any of these products, the companies would be out of business via law suits and bankruptcy.

Shame on these guys! :mad: :mad: :mad:

kcjaz, often there's just no substitute for doing it correctly. This is one of those!
 
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As stated above by Rick and Bondo this system has caused many cracked blocks, But if you install larger hose barbs, larger lines and ball valves, one for each side of the engine block, it's a convenient way to drain your block. A little blast of air back through the line will clear any blockages.
 
Wow...the next thing you know someone will be telling us the "Tornado Fuel Saver" doesn't really double your power and mileage!
 
Thanks guys. I can see that there could be some risk but I also think this could be done in a way that minimizes the risk. Really, the block and manifold drains are already about as simple as they can be with plastic plugs, no tools required for those. It is the hoses that are a mild pain. Its no big deal for the end of season winterization, but popping the hoses off every time we trailer up in October/November is just not as convenient as I would like it to be. Of course a cracked block would be pretty inconvenient. The suggestion to just step up to FWC is an interesting one. I may look into that.
 
kcjaz, this system intrinsically is great. No question! It's got "bling" to it, and at first glance, it looks like it would work very well.
However, if any one of these ports should become blocked via rust scale, or even become blocked during the draining process....., then we have an issue.
The ports are simply too small.
Blasting with air may be a temporary cure.
Larger ports would definitely be a cure, but that's not an option.

Like I suggested; often there's just no substitute for doing it correctly. This is one of those!


As for the Closed Cooling system, great idea.
Just take note that there are a few hurdles to jump when installing a CC System onto a previously Raw Water cooled engine.
It can be done, but there are several extra measures that must be taken during the first 50 hours, or so, of operation.

.
 
I would think that thoroughly flushing the previously RWC engine would be very important for the conversion to FWC. What are the extra measures for the first 50 hours?
 
If you are going to FWC an older engine you will need to do an acid flush of the cooling system. You will need to remove a few core plugs from the block and flush out the larger pieces of scale. Then you will run the engine for the first few hours with water and flush it again. Then you can fill it with antifreeze. After this is done you will need to keep an eye on your anti freeze level and your oil level. Sometimes Barrs leak is needed if you are passing antifreeze into the crank case.

San Juan Engineering builds a good after market FWC kit. There kits have large passages and are not easily blocked.
 
kcjaz said:
I would think that thoroughly flushing the previously RWC engine would be very important for the conversion to FWC. What are the extra measures for the first 50 hours?
Click to expand...

Docksidemarineservices said:
1..... San Juan Engineering builds a good after market FWC kit.
2..... There kits have large passages and are not easily blocked.
Click to expand...
1.... JSE was the the OEM Merc and V/P for many years...... Good company!


Kcjaz, I'll kill two birds with one stone here with my question for Chris.
2..... Chris, I'm not following you re; the large passages. Do you mean around the tube bundle?

The chemical flushing is a great idea. This will help dislodge any rust scale that poses a threat to the E/G/h2o side of the shell and tube Heat Exchanger bundle.
Be sure to neutralize it afterwards.

But even if we get the lager debris, we're not off the hook yet.
We need to take precautions against any potential rust scale that may continue dislodging little-by-little, and settle in/around the tube bundle on the E/G/h2o side of the Heat Exchanger system.
This side is inaccessible by average Joe.
(the sea water side of the tube bundle (through the tubes) is accessible)

What I'd recommend, would be to do the cleaning that Chris suggests, and install the system and run it.

Then perhaps remove the H/E after lets say 10 hours run time, and dump the contents into a white bucket.
Look for any contaminents that may have started to settle in/around the tube bundle..... if any is there, you'll see it against the white bucket.
You may even want to drain and capture the coolant within the engine block., and take a look at it.

You can also pull the Circ Pump suction hose, and catch the contents.
(I prefer to remove H/E so that it can be shaken up, and dumped out)

Either should give us a tell-tale-sign of what's going on internally!


Flush it out.... then re-install, and go for another 20 hours or so.
I'd then repeat the process at another 20 hours.
(that's 10, 20 and 20, or about 50 hours run time...... there's no set time frame)

You can probably filter out the E/G and re-use it for the first one or two go-a-rounds!

When you no longer see any debris/scale/sediment, you're likey "home free" for quite some time afterwards.


NOTE: If this sediment was to build up around the tube bundle, and was to prevent a good heat exchange, you will have over-heating issues.... much like a car/truck radiator that has become restricted.


That's what I meant by the "extra" measures.
It can be done, and I'd sure do it if it were my boat's engine. :cool:
 
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Originally Posted by RicardoMarine

Kcjaz, I'll kill two birds with one stone here with my question for Chris.
2..... Chris, I'm not following you re; the large passages. Do you mean around the tube bundle?
Click to expand...

Yes, around the tube bundle. Brad at San Juan told me years ago that quarter (25 cents) size pieces of scale or rust would pass through the antifreeze side of his heat exchanger with out clogging it up.
 
Ahh... got ya! That makes sense.

However, of the guys that do have trouble when retro-fitting a system, the sediment is usually the issue, and it won't show up for a while.
I've spoken with Brad about this. Their suppliers often sell this kits to those who are retro-fitting, but make it clear that they assume no liabililty towards this.
caveat emptor!

.
 
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