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Mercury 3000 control hard to shift

kevinj

Advanced Contributor
2000 Crownline with 5.0l mercruiser, Alpha One outdrive and mercury 3000 control. It’s always been stiff a little stiff going into reverse but it’s now almost impossible to shift into reverse. When I do get in reverse it’s very difficult to get back into neutral. I can use the handle in neutral only and movement is smooth.

Does this sound like an issue in the helm, a cable between the helm and shift rocker, or the lower shift cable? I plan to disconnect the cable from the shift rocker and check movement.

is there any lubrication in the helm that will help or is this likely a cable problem?
 
So I dug into it and found the upper shift cable is nearly frozen. Grrrr, rotten time to find it on vacation. :mad:

A localmshop had a cable cable but it’s the wrong end at the helm. The cable I took out is Teleflex CC17914. It has a plastic keeper molded on the helm end to keep the cable housing captive. There’s one shop I didn’t try today and I’m hoping they have the right cable.
 
Pull out that junk shifter...All 3000 series need to be removed from service. Replace it with a Gen2 control box and Gen2 cables, You will be happy with it after you do it.
 
Pull out that junk shifter...All 3000 series need to be removed from service. Replace it with a Gen2 control box and Gen2 cables, You will be happy with it after you do it.
Tell me more. I’m not well versed on control boxes and don’t really know much. I’ve always thought this one felt a little cheap buts it’s been okay so I haven’t thought a lot about it. If there’s a significantly better box I’d like to hear more.

Why exactly do you say the 3000’s should be junked? Are there major flaws or are they just cheaply made?
 
Kevinj you basicaly answered your own question,good luck with rest of your trip.
yes. I found a replacement Gen I cable and got it repaired. Everything seems to be working fine. However I’m still very curious about the comment that all Gen I controls should be scrapped in lieu of Gen II. If there is an overwhelming reason I’d like to know because I would definitely consider making the change. If it’s just a preference thing then probably not, but if there is a significant improvement then I’d like to hear the details.
 
Stop asking all these ridiculous questions about a junk control box.
They suck, end of story.

Get a better one as suggested.

It is what it is for a reason.
 
Stop asking all these ridiculous questions about a junk control box.
They suck, end of story.

Get a better one as suggested.

It is what it is for a reason.

Both you and Chris say they’re junk. I don’t think it’s a ridiculous question to ask for an explanation. With your experience you must have observed issues with these boxes and I’m just curious what routinely fails.

Like I said before I’m not opposed to replacing the box but I just prefer to know why before I drop $400 on a new box and cables.

Im just trying to learn folks, I’m not being obstinate. Oh and I’m not on a keyboard, I’m trying to do this all on my phone while on vacation.
 
My '96 3000 has held up well, but my boat dealer was on high alert when I first had some shifting problems. (Shift plate misadjustment). He was ready to warranty it out right then, saying they were troublesome. My bud had the same controller, two years older, and his fell apart two years ago after he cobbled it for three years prior. I don't think the problem was with the upper cable, but over reliance with plastic internal parts.

BTW. My bud bought an expensive aftermarket controller, but it wasn't set for the Gen II shift plate. I doesn't have the FWD/REV controller detents. You better be sitting down when he shifts into FWD. He has never been able to get the throttle cable/lower shift cable timing correct. Clunk-vroom, or vroom-CLUNK

I baby my 3000. I pull up on the detent lock when I pull back into neutral rather than letting it spring-click back in. Plastic parts, you know.
 
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