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Mercury 110

dhelle

New member
Been trying to get this outboard back in working condition from being seized up. I cant believe I got this far with it! Here is what was done so far: Carb seals replaced, new float, needle valve, fuel pump seals and cleaned out all parts of the carb with cleaner etc. New plugs with proper gap, plug wires, boots and new coils. Compression on upper cylinder is 128, lower 130. Nothing done on the lower end yet, impeller ok. There was no venturi in the carb, so I replaced that as well. Starts on first or second pull when cold.

Carb adjustment screw: I have been fiddling with it for days! Been starting at 1.5 turns from lightly seated and can get good at high rpms some minor adjustments, but when i slow to idle its coughs and stalls.

I have had it out on the water several times, and it runs well at high rpms, sometimes bogging down, but once I slow down it struggles at idle.

I took flywheel off and it looks like the crank seal is leaking. So i ordered and will replace next.

Questions:
1. Is there anything else I should be looking at to get a better idle on this old outboard?

2. Whats the proper way to put the crank (oil) seal back in? I had to destroy it to get it out.
 
If your engine is been seized up, there are many reasons why this can happen, so the damages can be very different. So without know the reason for the engine seized up, it is not easy to answer question number one, but let´s try of course. If engine is been running too hot, i am worry about your powerhead gaskets: cylinder block cover gasket, and exhaust gaskets. If you decide open these covers, clean everything well under the covers and be sure to clean all old gasket material off before putting new gasket. Too high engine temperature can damage bearings and pistons. But i like to believe that your pistons/rings are ok because compression is ok. If you decide to open your whole powerhead, put new crank seals, upper and low ones and check carefully bearings, if you see color changes on the bearings, then you know that they are overheated at somepoint. I have made once full overhaul to my 20hp, 1977. I cant remember now the float setting, but are you sure that you have right float level?
 
Thanks for all the info.

The motor was thrown into the back of my truck after I purchased a boat from a guy. He pulled it from a pile of weeds, the throttle linkage just dangling... He mentioned it was running before he left it to rot in the weeds, so it being seized was most likely from sitting outside for a year or two.

Im doubtful it has anything to do with the carb. I have taken the carb off at least dozen times and changed the float settings. The best setting is the float parallel with the carb body when held upside down.

I dont think its a fuel flow issue due to me pressing the primer when at idle and still coughs and stalls.

I think its air someone getting in where it should not. Im waiting on the upper crank seal to arrive. I assume you lube up with grease and insert? Does the lower also need replaced, and where is it? Also, the bearings below the seal look to be in good shape.

Im going to try and post a pic of the upper seal to see if someone can confirm it needs replaced.

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Those seals are known to fail.----There is another one at the bottom.----Crankcase must be split to replace that one.-----And i suggest you do that.-----Not hard to do.
 
Thanks! I found the lower seal part number. Im a little concerned about splitting the case. Are there other seals / gaskets I need to replace if I split?

What do you think about me replacing the top seal first, then bottom seal if that does not work? Top seal was a breeze to get to...

Thanks,
 
Those seals are rubber all around.------Some rubber products keep vulcanizing for many years after they come out of the mold.----Heat does that.-----They become hard and brittle and loose their grip in a housing.---Have seen those upper seals popped out just from crankcase compression.----No magic to splitting a crankcase at all.----Just need the right sealer for the joint and the gasket to the exhaust housing.----Maybe the plastic washer at the top of the water tube.----Factory replacement is a better material.
 
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