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Mercruiser 5.0L (2bl carb) long block needed - please guide me on where to buy...

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fixitforfree

New member
I have a Mercruiser 5.0 litre Thunderbolt 5 Ignition with a cracked block with the following serial number data:

0L090754 - engine s/n
0L287713 - transom s/n
0L195218 - drive s/n

The electronics (black box) on the intake manifold is a Denso 5.0L G+ Alpha 861459-1. This motor has a 2bl carb with less than 200 original hours. The boat is near mint but failure to drain the block over the winter has resulted in this unfortunate situation...I am confident my heads, intake & exhaust manifolds, etc. are still good.

From looking at Mercruiser parts diagrams for my particular engine s/n, my engine has a roller camshaft, I want to keep it that way.

I am fully capable of changing out the motor myself but want to know some reputable places to buy complete long and/or short blocks with competitive prices. I prefer new assemblies but would considered rebuilt if I know the rebuilder is truly a quality builder. Any suggestions on which suppliers I should call and get quotes?

Please offer what ever suggestions you may have to help me get started replacing my Mercruiser. Thanks for you time.

 
To buy a long block from mercruiser you have two options to choose from new or Remanufactured.

The Reman part Number for your engine is 864651R01. Core Charge: $250.00 Container Charge: $175.00 MSRP: $3,243.75. Description: LB 5.0L 98-UP.
But the problem with this is, this item is currently out of stock at all Mercury warehouses. Estimated availability date is 17-MAY-2011.

The new long block part number for your engine was 862758A1, But has now Superseded to 864651A01. Core Charge: $500.00 Container Charge: $175.00 MSRP: $5,235.29 Description: MARINE LONG BLOCK ENGINE. 5.0L 98-UP. In stock.

(864651R01) Remanufactured PRO Series Longblock GM 5.0 Litre Gen.+ 305 V/8 (Left-Hand Standard Rotation) Replaces 1998 and newer 5.0L Carbureted or Throttle Body Injected EFI sterndrive engines. It also replaces the 5.0L Multi-Port Injected MPI engines without CPS. But not a 5.0L engine with a CPS (crankshaft position sensor)

Check out the video in this link.:)
http://www.mercurymarine.com/repower/mercruiser/remanufactured-mercruiser-products/

Long Block Cross Reference
All long blocks include:
Engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, rings, engine bearings, oil pump,
marine gaskets, marine camshaft, lifters, timing components, brass core plugs,
complete head assemblies, timing cover, oil pan, valve covers, marine water pump
and a one year Quicksilver limited warranty.
New long blocks also include flywheels and harmonic balancers. New longblocks may
include intake manifolds. See reference chart below.
Remanufactured long blocks DO NOT include intake manifolds, flywheels, harmonic​
balancers or gasket sets required for assembly.


Intake and Exhaust Gasket Cross Reference
​
​
​
MerCruiser 5.0 Liter V-8 Intake Gasket # Exhaust Gasket #
805636R 5 GM V-8, 5.0L - 305 cid
1987-1995
27-17145. 27-33395​


864651R01 GM V-8, 5.0L - 305 cid
(Gen +) 1998 & newer
27-17145. 27-33395​

863660R05 GM V-8, 5.0L - 305 cid
(Gen +) 2002 & newer​
807473A1. 33395


Good luck with your decision.:)
 
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why go with a 5.0 go with a 5.7 same weight more hp same price maybe cheaper even.

You got many of the parts to change over if good.

Michigan motors i ordered from, Long block, in my opinion.
 
When I pull this engine can I simply unbolt the bellhousing directly at the block and pull the engine only? Or, do I have to unbolt this assembly further back toward the stern drive pulling the engine and the bellhousing all together?
 
Do not try to short cut this!!!!

Put shift handle in forward and remove the outdrive. Failure to do this will result in a missaligned engine to gimbal bearing and you will blow out your coupler.

After engine is put back in and before outdrive is installed you MUST check/adjust alignment. Special tool is needed...

Take pictures of specifics you are not familiar with for future needs. Especially the rear engine mount parts and there order of assembly......

GET A SERVICE MANUAL.....

As far as where to get it, Google can be your friend for remanufactured roller cam marine replacement motors......there are several large/ national remanufactures out there. The choice is yours.

A remanufactured marine roller motor ~ $1900- ~$2500.

Do your research and look for warrenties and any reviews.
 
I will say this, you say you are mechanically inclined and can handle the engine swap.
Well i will say this (no offense) if you are not aware that the outdrive MUST be removed to propperly do a engine swap..... Then I Would suggest finding someone who does have some boat mechanic experience to assist...JMHO
 
Boat work is very easy by comparison to auto.... BUT you have to have a bit of experience to understand the ins and outs of marine......just sayin.......
 
I am a trained mechanical engineer. I just have 0 experience dealing with this stern drive setup so that's why I asked the question on this forum. From the exploded view I have found of this assembly, there is a coupler plate that bolts with 3 bolts to the engines flexplate (flywheel). It appears the splined input shaft of the sterndrive simply slides into this coupler plate. Correct?
 
Yes, it slides in. You need to remove the drive before you can remove the engine. There is no way around this. With the drive removed the engine will come right out of the hull. You also need to beware of the fiber and spring washers that are between the bell housing and the inner transom plate. These must go back the way they came out.

A reman long block is the way to go. If you try to do it any other way it will cost you 2x as much.
 
What we are suggesting is not a big deal.
You simply put your shift control into forward gear, remove the trim rams from the outdrive, remove the 6 nuts that hold the outdrive to the gimbal housing and slide the outdrive away from the housing.

It is that simple and should only take about 20 minutes to do this.

When you see what is hanging off the upper half of the outdrive you will understand what we are referring to, there is a double Ujoint assembly connected to a long slined shaft, this shaft engages to the coupler,

there is a gimbal bearing inside the transome assembly this supports the splined shaft and is what HAS TO BE ALIGNED PROPPERLY to the coupler whne the engine is reinstalled. Failure to do this will cause the bearing and coupler to be missaligned and the coupler will get destroyed. If this occurs then the motor will have to be removed AGAIN to replace the coupler.......It is not a bad idea once you remove the engine to replace the coupler as a precautionary preventative maintanence measure.
 
fixitforfree said:
When I pull this engine can I simply unbolt the bellhousing directly at the block and pull the engine only?
Or, do I have to unbolt this assembly further back toward the stern drive pulling the engine and the bellhousing all together?
Click to expand...
Fact is.... yes, you can remove the engine ONLY and leave the drive attached.

However, (and this is why Kghost and Chris are making this suggestion to you) when re-installing the engine, you need to be aware of two things;
One..... lifting and supporting and aligning the drive shaft, in order to penetrate the coupler, will be difficult..... but this is of less importatance.... read on!
Two.... and of more importance..... you willl need to have the drive removed in order to use the Engine Drive Coupler alignment tool, in order to adjust the engine geometry to the drive.

So.... this leaves you with options:
Pull the engine only Now.... and pull the drive later on.
Or pull them both now.

If your forward space is limited while removing the engine...., pulling the drive now makes better sense. :)


Pay particular attention to the last paragraph in post #12. :cool:


As for your engine.......

Note that your existing and possibly reusable cylinder heads will be specific to a piston design.... most likely the full dished pistons.
The chambers are most likely the small chambers.
Do not mix/match piston types with these cylinder heads and/or visa-versa.
IOW, if your OEM block was fitted with full dished pistons, make sure that your replacement block is using the same piston style.

.
 
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