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Mercruiser 496 SHIFT POS CKT HI

PeterMill

New member
I started getting this error code intermittently but now is almost every time I run the port motor. It starts normally and come on when I engage forward gear. No problem in reverse and evrything operates correctly. Can anyone explain this error and offer any help. Any advice would be appreciated as I am making no headway with my mechanic as he is not getting any response from Mercury. I have just joined the forum and hope to help solve other problems.
 
What error code is it, what year is the boat/engine, EFI or carbed and which drive is on the boat?
 
The only thing that comes up on the smartcraft is "SHFT POS CKT HI"
It is a 2005 Mercruiser 496 (Magnum 8.1 litre V8) EFI with Bravo 3 leg and DTS controls
Hope this helps
 
I suspect it might be the potentiometer in the shift actuator and as a new shift actuator is worth about $1200 has any body heard of being able to repair this? A bit frustrating as everything works perfectly, we just get this incessant alarm every few minutes and the associated error message threatening to reduce our power but never doing so! Any body up to the challenge?
 
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...esc=Shift+Bracket(Digital+Throttle+and+Shift)

Is number 17 switch working? test it for operation.

I suspect it might be the potentiometer in the shift actuator...

Can it be tested w/ a digital voltmeter on the ohms scale? Isolate it first, attach the test leads and slowly move the lever from end to end. Watch the DVM ohms reading for a smooth change in ohms reading. If there is an abrupt ohms change out in left field (high or low) you can assume it is defective. Compare the ohms readings w/the starboard engine. Check the switch connections and wires for damage or corrosion.


Do you have a single twin or individual helm controls? If they are single controls can you switch the two to see if the problem stays w/the port engine? Look for similar harness plugs. That will rule out the helm controls.
 
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I already swapped the Number 17 switch and the problem stayed with the port engine. I'll swap the shift actuator #1 and see what happens. Only one helm station but one DTS control for each motor. Theres 5 wires out of the shift actuator, so I'm not sure how I'll go testing the resistance. I'll see how I go and report back. Thanks for your interest and assistance so far.
 
Ditto guyjg. Also, you may want to have them reprogram the remote from scratch again. They should also be able to watch the numbers while the remote is activated, and while doing a wiggle test at helm and engine.
 
I have done some more work on this problem.
Swapped shift actators over and problem moved to starter, confirming (I believe) problem is in actuator.
Checked resistance as piston moved from in to out and got readings between 86 and 1100 ohms both sides. always seemed to total around 1100 ohms.
Reinstalled actuator and it now parks itself in full reverse position instead of neutral. I think the potentiometer may be faulty.
Does anyone know where I can buy a new potentiometer??? I tried emailing Bourns but have not yet received a reply.
Still need help, thanks guys.
 
I have done some more work on this problem.<br>Swapped shift actuators over and problem moved to starboard side, confirming (I believe) problem is in actuator.<br>Checked resistance as piston moved from in to out and got readings between 86 and 1100 ohms both sides. always seemed to total around 1100 ohms.<br>Reinstalled actuator and it now parks itself in full reverse position instead of neutral. I think the potentiometer may be faulty.<br>Does anyone know where I can buy a new potentiometer??? I tried emailing Bourns but have not yet received a reply.<br>Still need help, thanks guys.<br>
 
I took the pot out and worked it a bit in case some lubricant had dried or the rest point had damaged the the internal contact, reinstalled it and so far so good NO ERRORS. Thanks guyjg for setting me on the right path. I would still like to buy a new pot $20 not actuator $1500. Any suggestions on who might sell them?
 
You are welcome. If you can find a can of "tuner cleaner" at an electronics shop it can be sprayed into any tiny opening/edge of the potentiometer. It will improve the internal connection and smooth the operation of the device. Look on the case of the potentiometer for a label to determine who the supplier was or where it was mfgd. There are many electronics supply houses all over the USA. Look for them on the web. Any potentiometer of a similar physical size/operation will work as long as it will fit and is equal or greater in total ohms and wattage.
 
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