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Mercruiser 350 Mag Tournament Ski - Fuel or Ignition Issue?

MacMan

New member
Hello. First time poster here. I have read these boards over time, and have appreciated the information. Thank you. Hoping to get a little advice.
I have 1995 Malibu Echelon with a Mercruiser 350 Mag Tournament Ski. S/N OF350523. We bought it when it was a couple of years old and it has been an awesome boat. It has only about 400 hours, has always been kept dry and well serviced. Have done almost nothing to it other than regular maintenance things.

It has been run very little the last couple of years. This season, it is running rough and bogs down at top end. I initially was confident I had a fuel issue (and may), but driving it today, it really seems to be more of a dead miss to me. It sounds fine on the trailer with a hose. The issue appears under a load.

Initially thinking a fuel issue, it had a new fuel filter last year. I pulled it today and dumped the fuel from the filter in a jar. It looks and smells just fine. We have kept Stabil in it always. The injectors on top of the throttle body seem to be making nice little cones, but I don't know what they are supposed to look like. I'd like to put a fuel pressure gauge on it, but I can't see how to do that - the high pressure lines are formed metal, and I see no Schrader valve on the VST. The air cleaner (or whatever its called) seemed pretty clogged, and it cleaned that up. I put a little injector cleaner in the throttle body and dumped the can in the fuel tank, though not really expecting much from that. Not sure what else to do chasing a fuel issue at this point, if anything. I guess if I was going to take a next step, besides pressure testing the high pressure pump, it might be to take apart the VST - I think there is a screen on the bottom of the pump (is that true for mine?) that I would want to check.

After doing those things, I ran it again today. Today, the issue seemed somewhat variable. Initially, I felt/heard a dead miss, even just cruising at idle or a little above. Planing off, I thought it was going to run out okay. Then, with more throttle, it was clearly not right. I tried to diagnose the miss pulling one plug wire at a time and running it, comparing to how it was running before - found one suspect, but not positive. Then I ran it again at WOT. For a time I thought maybe it was running normally. Not positive about my speed because one of the speedos is off, and I am not sure which. The higher reading one read about 36 which wouldn't be too far off its top end. RPM's maxed out at about 3400. Ran it at WOT for maybe a minute or two - during that time - you could hear it intermittently bog down slightly for just a few seconds.

Just listening to it today, it seems more like a dead miss, and I am thinking ignition. Plug wires were replaced once but that has been a long time ago, like 15 or more maybe. Wondering whether moving the wires made it run better. I am planning to replace those and the plugs and see what happens. Anything else I should do to troubleshoot the ignition? I am confident that the distributor, coil and other ignition components are original.

I would welcome any and all suggestions! Thanks for any input!
 
assuming it was propped correctly, the WOT RPM is seriously low.

Checking the fuel pressure would be a good next step...they used to sell adapters to provide a schrader valve for the normal fuel pressure gauge.

Scanning the ECU may give you insight as well...

15 years may be OK for the plug wires. you can ohm them out to see if they have any breaks in the core.

The ESt distributor has a pickup coil inside...and they are known to have finite lifetimes.
 
Thanks Mako. I appreciate the help.

I would like to get a fuel pressure gauge on it. I am struggling to see where to get access to the fuel line to install a T or schrader valve or whatever to get a gauge on the line. The lines from the VST to the throttle body are metal with a stretch of some sort of flex line in the middle that I don't want to try and cut. I may need to just rig a rubber fuel line from the VST to the throttle body so I can get a T in it. There is some sort of cap on top of the VST (see the pic below) and I wonder if that could be a place to install a schrader, but if that was the purpose, it seems like they would have just put a schrader on it originally.

It would be nice to scan the ECU. I assume I need a marine scanner to scan the ECU. Is that right? I only have an automotive OBD scanner.

Good thought about ohm testing the plug wires. I will do that. I have also had issues in the past in other situations with plug wires arcing out with age - wondering about that. They are not in carriers as they should be.

Thanks for the info on the coil. I need to at least inspect the cap and rotor.
 

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I don't remember using the cap on the VST to check pressure...

Yes, one needs a marine scan tool to get the full set of data available...with the olded MEFI units, you can use the LED-Resistor-and jumper approach, just like what was done for the mid-80's GM auto's back when OBD was first introduced...probably find the same info search MEFI-1 code reader...
 
Hello. First time poster here. I have read these boards over time, and have appreciated the information. Thank you. Hoping to get a little advice.
I have 1995 Malibu Echelon with a Mercruiser 350 Mag Tournament Ski. S/N OF350523. We bought it when it was a couple of years old and it has been an awesome boat. It has only about 400 hours, has always been kept dry and well serviced. Have done almost nothing to it other than regular maintenance things.

It has been run very little the last couple of years. This season, it is running rough and bogs down at top end. I initially was confident I had a fuel issue (and may), but driving it today, it really seems to be more of a dead miss to me. It sounds fine on the trailer with a hose. The issue appears under a load.

Initially thinking a fuel issue, it had a new fuel filter last year. I pulled it today and dumped the fuel from the filter in a jar. It looks and smells just fine. We have kept Stabil in it always. The injectors on top of the throttle body seem to be making nice little cones, but I don't know what they are supposed to look like. I'd like to put a fuel pressure gauge on it, but I can't see how to do that - the high pressure lines are formed metal, and I see no Schrader valve on the VST. The air cleaner (or whatever its called) seemed pretty clogged, and it cleaned that up. I put a little injector cleaner in the throttle body and dumped the can in the fuel tank, though not really expecting much from that. Not sure what else to do chasing a fuel issue at this point, if anything. I guess if I was going to take a next step, besides pressure testing the high pressure pump, it might be to take apart the VST - I think there is a screen on the bottom of the pump (is that true for mine?) that I would want to check.

After doing those things, I ran it again today. Today, the issue seemed somewhat variable. Initially, I felt/heard a dead miss, even just cruising at idle or a little above. Planing off, I thought it was going to run out okay. Then, with more throttle, it was clearly not right. I tried to diagnose the miss pulling one plug wire at a time and running it, comparing to how it was running before - found one suspect, but not positive. Then I ran it again at WOT. For a time I thought maybe it was running normally. Not positive about my speed because one of the speedos is off, and I am not sure which. The higher reading one read about 36 which wouldn't be too far off its top end. RPM's maxed out at about 3400. Ran it at WOT for maybe a minute or two - during that time - you could hear it intermittently bog down slightly for just a few seconds.

Just listening to it today, it seems more like a dead miss, and I am thinking ignition. Plug wires were replaced once but that has been a long time ago, like 15 or more maybe. Wondering whether moving the wires made it run better. I am planning to replace those and the plugs and see what happens. Anything else I should do to troubleshoot the ignition? I am confident that the distributor, coil and other ignition components are original.

I would welcome any and all suggestions! Thanks for any input!
Find a service manual.

When I saw Mastercraft boats that wouldn't go past about 3400 RPM, it was because the filter screen on the pump was clogged, but any restriction can do this. Check for an anti-siphon valve and fuel shutoff at the tank- make sure they aren't the cause. Also, you absolutely need to check fuel pressure.

Don't just replace parts- make sure they're bad, first.
 
Thanks Jim and Mako. Several things I need to do here. Because it sounded and felt more like a dead miss yesterday, I'm going to start with plugs (they are past needing replacing anyway I think), ohm testing the plug wires and inspecting the distributor. If no luck there, I will turn to fuel related issues I think. I'm thinking I might be able to get the high pressure pump out and check the screen more easily than rigging up a way to check the fuel pressure - might start there.

I will report back. Thanks for your help.
 
The fitting you need to measure pressure at the TB is 91-806901

TBI fuel 91-806901.jpg

With a miss and low RPM I would look into a compression test if the plugs and fuel pressure checks doesn't fix the issue
 
The fitting you need to measure pressure at the TB is 91-806901

View attachment 35449
With a miss and low RPM I would look into a compression test if the plugs and fuel pressure checks doesn't fix the issue
Ahhh . . . that makes sense. I was planning just to find thread-to-barbed fittings and using a rubber high pressure hose with a barbed T with a schrader for the gauge. This fitting would certainly be simpler. Thank you.

I got the plugs swapped today and hope to run it again tomorrow. They were very old, but didn't look suspicious in any way. One was broken coming out of my plug socket. That was a little suspicious, but maybe I broke it somehow getting it out.

I ohm tested each of the plug wires and got values between .65 and .95. Assuming I'm okay there.

I will post back after I run it.

Thank you
 
Hmm . . . I'm honestly not sure what you mean. I'm using a Klein auto ranging multi-meter, so I guess I'm not sure of the range. I will look at it more closely tomorrow. Definitely not an expert here . . .
 
Hmm . . . I'm honestly not sure what you mean. I'm using a Klein auto ranging multi-meter, so I guess I'm not sure of the range. I will look at it more closely tomorrow. Definitely not an expert here . . .

I would recommend using a good spark gap tester- you'll see the brightness and how far the spark will jump and that tella more than just a resistance test. It needs to be adjustable, but it doesn't need to be expensive and it can be used for more than just a boat.
 
Thank you both. I double checked again this morning. The readings of .65 to .95 were for "k [ohm symbol]". I guess since they were similar values and the boat was running (more or less) I was assuming those readings were okay. If I understand correctly, .65 k ohms translates to 650 ohms. Can you have lower resistance readings with good quality wires? Seems like I read that somewhere. If I manually set the range to "M [ohm symbol]", I get a reading of .002 - I guess there's some kind or rounding deal there maybe??

While I was at it, I checked for continuity and found none. That surprised me. Just checked a couple of wires.

As you have figured out, I am not an expert on any of this. There could easily be operator error somewhere in the mix here.

If you have thoughts about the above, I'd appreciate them. Meanwhile I will look into a spark gap tester - thanks for that tip. And, I am hoping to run it today to see if the plugs helped . . . hoping. Wouldn't be the first time I had a cylinder drop out with a bad plug.

Thanks again.
 

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I think your meters ohm scale has an issue. Don't see any type plug wires to be that low, even spiral wound. A meter auto rage should automatically go from .65 to 650. First pic shows it's on 0 ohms scale, next pic shows Meg ohms

Are you measuring end to end complete length of the of the wire
 
Agree there's no pic with the meter ranged to K ohms...

The normal (factory) wires are suppression wires. I've seen racing wires that have no resistance and they produced so much interference they rendered most of the onboard electronics useless...

I prefer to secure the meter leads to either end of the plug wire and then "shake" the plug wire - it will show you if there are any breaks in the conductor. (an analog meter shows any breaks much easier.)

When your refer to the "continuity test" (the beep test), failing it isn't surprising...the threshold for pass/fail is meter specific and I think the meter in the pics its is under 100 ohms.
 
Thank you all for your input. The good news is that I ran it today, and the plugs seem to have resolved my issues. The miss is gone. At WOT it ran at 4600 rpm and about 46 mpg (I don't know why I said earlier that it was normal to top out near 36 mph - honestly, i haven't personally been in the boat in several years - just family uses it some). At its age, something else could go bad at any time, but for now it seems to be running well - sort of amazing to me that virtually all engine components are 30 years old and still working. Holding my breath . . .

As for the ohm readings, you guys know more than me. The first picture does reflect k ohms - just not a great picture - there's some dirt on the screen I think. I was changing the range manually in those pictures. Yes, measuring end to end the entire length of the wire. The probes actually tuck between the metal sockets and the rubber insulation for good contact. Maybe there is an issue with the meter - I was a little puzzled by how .69 on the k scale converts to .0002 on the M scale. I have another meter - I'll double check the wires with that one. I did order a spark tester as Jim suggested. I will follow up with that too.

The wires are marked with a brand, I will look. They were not cheapo wires I don't believe, but certainly not racing wires.

I hope you don't feel like you wasted your time on what turned out to be a simple fix. Your input was really helpful to me, and I'm sure it will be helpful to others who may read this post.

Thanks again!
 
Thank you all for your input. The good news is that I ran it today, and the plugs seem to have resolved my issues. The miss is gone. At WOT it ran at 4600 rpm and about 46 mpg (I don't know why I said earlier that it was normal to top out near 36 mph - honestly, i haven't personally been in the boat in several years - just family uses it some). At its age, something else could go bad at any time, but for now it seems to be running well - sort of amazing to me that virtually all engine components are 30 years old and still working. Holding my breath . . .

As for the ohm readings, you guys know more than me. The first picture does reflect k ohms - just not a great picture - there's some dirt on the screen I think. I was changing the range manually in those pictures. Yes, measuring end to end the entire length of the wire. The probes actually tuck between the metal sockets and the rubber insulation for good contact. Maybe there is an issue with the meter - I was a little puzzled by how .69 on the k scale converts to .0002 on the M scale. I have another meter - I'll double check the wires with that one. I did order a spark tester as Jim suggested. I will follow up with that too.

The wires are marked with a brand, I will look. They were not cheapo wires I don't believe, but certainly not racing wires.

I hope you don't feel like you wasted your time on what turned out to be a simple fix. Your input was really helpful to me, and I'm sure it will be helpful to others who may read this post.

Thanks again!
Buy cap/rotor/wires with lifetime warranty. I usually go to O'Reilley for these.

If you don't know when these were replaced last time, I would do that just to have a good baseline.
 
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