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Mercruiser 3.0 lost 900 rpm at wot after cay hit

snapphane

New member
Hello,

I´m new to this forum and I serched the forum for any similar problem but I havent found any so I try to explain my problem and hope that someone has the answer.

I have a Stingray 190 cs 2002 with a Mercruiser 3.0 and Alpha One gen 2 drive.
2 years ago I hit a underwater cay and had to replace the lower unit. The rest of that season was dedicated to break in the new lower unit and the last season I didnt have much time to ride the boat but I thought that it had lost top speed.

So when I put the boat in the water this season I was determined to find out why I lost speed. As I began to search for the fault I noticed that the tachometer was behaving strange, it showed to high rpm. I solved that problem by turning the screw on the backside a couple of times and then it worked just fine. But now I realized that I lost 900 rpm at wot.

The boat runs fine at idle and up to 3900 rpm and there it stops. It should reach 4800 rpm as it did before the cay hit but no.
At first I did not connect the problem with the cay hit so I started with a look at the plugs and they looked like brand new. My first thought, the engine is running way to lean!
But it consumes more fuel than before...

This is what I have done so far,

Checked ignition timing, OK
Changed distributor cap and rotor
Rebuilt carburator
Checked fuelfilter in fueltank, fuelpump and carburator, OK
Checked fuelpressure, OK
Checked ratio on the new lower unit, it is 2.0:1 as it should be.
Checked ratio on the whole sterndrive and it is 2.0:1 as it should be.
Opened the powerjet in the carb so it was wide open all the time but no difference to the engine.
Checked the sparkplugs at idle and running at 2500 rpm and just shut down the engine, they look brand new at any rpm. Engine running lean all the time??

Now to my question,
When I started the boat after I hit the cay it was in reverse gear. The hit had made a 2 inch impact wound right on the shift spool and slamed in the reverse gear so the engine stalled.
Is it possible that the brutal stop, from 3000 rpm to 0 rpm, could have made the crankshaft gear or the camshaft gear to have been turned on either axel and therfore changed the igniton timing so it now is to late? The spark doesnt come until the piston is on its way down and that is causing loss of torque, high fuelconsumption and a high combustion temp?

Or if anyone have any other ideas?

Thank you
snapphane
 
Compression is what on a warm engine all the plugs out and the throttle fully down ? Plugs look brand new is not good. Check this out:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

Thank you for the answer.

I did a compression test with warm engine, one plug at a tiime, it was 135-145 on all cylinders.
I dont understad your question fully, should I do a compressions test with all the plugs out at the same time and have the throttle wide open?

My plugs dont look like any of those in the link, they all look used..:)

I didnt mention that I also tried to switch the prop from the original 21" to a 19" and it gave me another 300rpm at wot as it should, and a little higher top speed.
 
May have stripped the coupler enough to still drive the outdrive but slip at high speeds?

Is the prop pitch the same as before?

Agree with disconnect the tach and retry..

also what is the mph? is it the same as before? that could also indicate a bad tach...
 
The boat is on land for the moment so I have to wait with a test run.

But the tach seems fine after I turned the screw on the back. I compared it with another rpm counter, dont know what its called but I but a pice of reflective material on the crank and measured the rpm with the instrument and it was the same as the tach.

The original prop is 21" and with that prop it made 45 mph, now top speed is 32mph and I compared it with a gps and its the same. 19" prop gives me around 5 mph more.

Can the tach somehow limit engine rpm?
 
have you run it long enough to burn all the 2 year old fuel out?
is the spark arrester on the carb clean?

could the impact have caused a hull issue - water leaking in under the floor - filling floatation foam full of water - if you can weigh the boat or open some test holes under seat compartments etc. might be telling
it would explain the high fuel consumption too
did the boat sit outside for the year before it seemed to slow down?

But the tach seems fine after I turned the screw on the back.
most tachs that are "fine" don't require farting around with the pulse switch after 10 years.... but your call if you don't want to unplug one wire to eliminate it

aside from that, it seems you have done all the power checks. I'd start looking for water retention/hull issues.
sometimes you can just look at the trailer tires and see them squatting

gaining 5 mph with a prop switchout is a bit odd too. That 21P is very inefficient compared to the 19. But then again, with a full load of weight, the engine would be seriously lugging below its power band with the 21P
 
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The boat is on land for the moment so I have to wait with a test run.

But the tach seems fine after I turned the screw on the back. I compared it with another rpm counter, dont know what its called but I but a pice of reflective material on the crank and measured the rpm with the instrument and it was the same as the tach.

The original prop is 21" and with that prop it made 45 mph, now top speed is 32mph and I compared it with a gps and its the same. 19" prop gives me around 5 mph more.

Can the tach somehow limit engine rpm?

The reason you are being asked to disconnect the tach is, the signal to the tachometer comes from the - side of the coil. If the tachometer developes an issue it can "short" out the coil. it may not be a all or nothing short but a intermitten one as well.

The factory manual states this a one of the first things to do when diagnosing a ignition related issue. (that is if it is ignition related of course!!)
 
OK, thank you for your answers!

It seems the boating seasons come to a early end here in Sweden so Im not going to be abel to do any more test runs this year.

I checked the hull for any damages but it looks fine, not a scratch underneath and as far as I can see the weight on the trailer looks normal.
The boat is stored in a tent during the winter (and was so the year before) so I have a lot of time now to check the engine.

I removed the exhaust manifold this evening and noticed that the rubber on the exhaust flapper was melted and not very flexible. Is this something that happens over the years or is it a sign that the exhausts are to hot? I cant tell when this happend since I never checked it before.

Next step will be to check the gears on crank and cam shaft and make sure that the TDC really is at TDC.

I will post the results if I find anything that is wrong, if anyone is intrested... :)

Thank you
Snapphane
 
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