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mercruiser 1 drive not shifting

V

vib-e

New member
Probably all to familiar with the experts.but i have a 1978 mercruiser 228 with a 1 drive....itll go into fwd but wont reverse...if adjust the shift cable then itll go into reverse not fwd..no fine line there..that mean the lower shift cable is stretched?and yes the lower shift cable is measured at 6 in.although i was shifting in gear while on land turning the prob the direction it should lock depending wich direction im putting it in.fwd is counter clockwise...reverse is clockwise.thanks for any help.by the way i have a shift cable on order.just making sure im thinking the right idea.
 
sounds like a worn cable, but could be a few other things. Incorrectly adjusted stud on shift plate, worn shift spool.
Will post a link later tonite but for starters remove the dive and see if the brass shoe will shift into both gears.What your looking for is the brass shoe to be in a straight line If it looks like 12:30 or 1:00 to the right the shift spool is worn.
 
Thanks.i adjusted slot.it either went into fwd not reverse or the other way around.but ill take drive off and check that.its a 78 searay.just got it last fall.first inboard iv owned.i know gimble bearing and drive was serviced two years ago.i saw receipts.but nothing about shift cable replaced.
 
Trim outdrive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the trunion so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before completely installing it turn the brass trunion 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket and install the nuts but do not tighten at this time.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock position detent NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

If this all works then tighten all nuts down making sure the cable ends move freely and the nuts are not tight against the shift cable ends. The studs must spin freely inside the cable ends.

Try this and retest in water under load.

Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") any more and replace the control cable.

Short cable measurement test, remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand counter cock wise until full forward is made. Make a mark on shift cable end where the plastic stops over the metal.
Now with someone holding the prop from spinning pull the cable end out with two fingers, as soon as resistance is felt, now make a second mark on the inner cable where the plastic cable end stops. Now measure between the marks,
The measurement should be, if I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". Anymore and the cable or linkage is bad.

If this does not work report back and more tests can be given.
 
Wow!thanks so much!wont be able to get too it today cuz of mothers day.(if u know what i mean)lol ill get back too you soon as possible.
 
Heres what i found..cable end that goes into plastic end looks as if somebody cut a few wires out and made it fit then put set screws in.....
0508161041.jpg0508161041.jpg
 
Most likely the pinch screws used to tighten the cable into the plastic cable end just pinched and wore thru the cable core wires. Not uncommon on the old style cables.

The newer cable designs have a more solid inner core.


No way around this, You must replace or have someone who knows how to, replace the short shift cable....~ $70 for the parts kit.

If you do not know how to do this I would advise finding someone who does.

The outdrive must be removed and a special tool is needed to remove and install the new cable properly. 9/16 hex but the tool must be almost 4-5 inches deep to properly install the new cable. Removing it is easy just cut the cable and unscrew it from the gimbal housing.

Also if the cable is threaded into the gimbal housing from the same side as the cable bellows (back side of gimbal housing {old and obsolete installation location}) is the new cable does not install that way. It will install from the inside of the gimbal housing.

The threaded hole the cable threads into must be tapped from the inside of the gimbal housing, I believe it is 1/4 npt (pipe tap)

Not a easy job for a novice!!!

The new cable will not look like the one you show. The inner core is much stronger and longer lasting.

Also the routing of the cable when it enters the engine area is VERY important that is follows a specific path so it does not rub on the coupler and is not resting on any hot surfaces.


So................
 
I ordereed seirra part number 18-2600.actually i have a deep well 9/16 1/2in drive with a nut welded on.that may work....my question is.how heavy is the drive that i gotta take off?and how difficult to line things up to put it back on?it has to be in full foward to take drive off right?
 
A standard deep well socket will NOT work.

The cable end on the new cable requires almost a 4-5 inch maybe more due to the plastic inner core support tube sticking out the cable end.

What I have done is to drill out a 3/8 X 2-3 inch standard extension with a 9/32 or 5/16 inch drill and after it is drilled out that combined with a deep well 9/16 SIX point socket (only) will work.

If you can weld the with a drilled out extension, weld it to the deep socket.

Snap on and others sell a 5-6 inch deep well 6 point socket but they cost well over $100.00 EACH.
 
kghost said:
A standard deep well socket will NOT work.

The cable end on the new cable requires almost a 4-5 inch maybe more due to the plastic inner core support tube sticking out the cable end.

What I have done is to drill out a 3/8 X 2-3 inch standard extension with a 9/32 or 5/16 inch drill and after it is drilled out that combined with a deep well 9/16 SIX point socket (only) will work.

If you can weld the with a drilled out extension, weld it to the deep socket.

Snap on and others sell a 5-6 inch deep well 6 point socket but they cost well over $100.00 EACH.
Click to expand...
Yes I can weld.so I can do it that way.thanks for the info.still waiting on cable to come.
 
Hi

Regardiing your shifting issue. Make sure the shift rod which has the shoe on top which leads to the lower unit is not bent or twisted. It should be pointing to 12:00 clock with the drive engaged and locked in the fwd posistion. This can happen if the drive is being forced on as a result of not having the shifter in fwd. and the lower unit not locked in fwd. I came across this last year and it drove me crazy. I wound up replacing the shift rod and all was good


Good Luck
Jon Allen
 
Note:

When drilling out the extension if so choose to do this, The ball bearing is very hard and will wipe out the drill bit, If you can pry it out first or when you hit it with the drill bit do it. Also expect to go thru a couple of bits unless you know how to sharpen them yourself.

Experience typing here..........................
 
Procedure for removal and installation of short shift cable.
1. Remove out drive from gimbal housing by putting shift control into forward gear first.
2. Use bolt cutters and cut old cable at bellows.
3. Pull large grey aluminum shift cable end out of inner core
4. Use new tool and remove threaded cable end
5. Inside at motor, remove cable end from shift bracket
6. LOOK CLOSELY AT SHIFT CABLE ROUTING THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Take pictures if needed.
7. Pull cable thru transom/bellows and discard.
8. New kit will contain inner core, outer core, plastic cable end, two pinch screws and small pinch tube which screws thread into, large aluminum cable end, set screw, safety wire, small plastic piece for transom (throw away), threaded cable end (tube with lock nut) and possibly bellows if not order one and replace it while doing this.
9. Take OUTER CORE and feed thru gimbal housing threaded cable hole, wet bellows small end with dish soap, feed cable end thru bellows then push bellows toward gimbal housing while feeding cable thru hole in transom assembly and feed it/route it the same location/path as original. Once this has been accomplished start to thread cable into gimbal housing. It is best to have a second person in the boat with their hands on the cable end. While tightening the cable into the Gimbal housing have the other person slowly help by twisting the cable (gently) while you tighten it. Tighten the cable end so the Hex is about two threads from bottoming out ~ 1mm or so. Once this is done now comes the cable assembly.
10. Now outside the boat in a clean area, take the large aluminum end, feed cable thru it. Once this is done install the set screw, tighten set screw until it makes contact with the cable end. Now install the safety wire thru the hole in the set screw and wrap around protrusion on large aluminum and. Start to twist the wire, while doing this it is very important that the aluminum part is free to rotate but with little or no forward or backward play with respect to the cable.
11. Twist the wire, cut to about 3/8 inches and bend in-between the set screw and protrusion. Done.
12. Now feed the inner cable assembly all the way thru the outer core and your friend should get it inside the boat. THERE SHOULD BE LITTLE RESISTANCE OTHER THAN THE BENDS IN THE OUTER CORE, if high resistance is felt be very care NOT to kink inner core at all and for that matter the outer core either!!!!
13. Once the cable is assembled to this point install the threaded cable end and lock nut into outer cable inside boat. This MUST be threaded in all the way it can go. Sometimes it is necessary to use pliers or something like that to make sure it is seated all the way. Once seated tighten lock nut to outer core.
14. Now take plastic cable end, also get the pinch tube with two pinch screws, start screws into tube but too deep so hole in center is clear, insert into plastic cable end, slide plastic cable end over inner core all the way so the inner core touches the plastic cable (you will see what I mean). Once this is done tighten pinch screws snugly. Now move cable to it approximate location and make sure it will fit into bracket without twisting. If you have to twist loosen pinch screws and relax the cable end to fit naturally. Once this is done tighten pinch screws securely. Tight is good, over tight is not.
15. Once this is done push cable end all the way in, and attempt to install the out drive back onto gimbal housing. This will be tough as you need three to four hands if not experienced. You must have the outdrive in forward gear, Small brass shift arm pointing straight ahead at 12:00 and the aluminum shift cable end sticking out so the shift shaft U shaped piece that aligns with the brass shift are in alignment. Not easy for the novice so be patient.
16. Once drive is installed and rams hooked up follow procedure from above.
17. The shift cable bellows, once done with adjustments and all, now raise drive up almost all the way, install bellows large end onto flange on transom assembly, tighten hose clamp. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL HOSE CLAMP EXACTLY THE SAME LOCATION AS IT WAS WHEN YOU TOOK IT OFF!!!.
The bellows may be a bit tough to get on all the way. MAKE sure it is seated all the way around the flange!!!!! Then tighten hose clamp.
18. Now extend the small end of the bellows so that it is extended fully without stretching it. Once you have it extended use a TY-Wrap and out it on the small bellows end and secure and trim excess off making sure any sharp end is pointing away from large bellows above.
Now you should be done!! Good luck…
 
kghost said:
Procedure for removal and installation of short shift cable.
1. Remove out drive from gimbal housing by putting shift control into forward gear first.
2. Use bolt cutters and cut old cable at bellows.
3. Pull large grey aluminum shift cable end out of inner core
4. Use new tool and remove threaded cable end
5. Inside at motor, remove cable end from shift bracket
6. LOOK CLOSELY AT SHIFT CABLE ROUTING THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Take pictures if needed.
7. Pull cable thru transom/bellows and discard.
8. New kit will contain inner core, outer core, plastic cable end, two pinch screws and small pinch tube which screws thread into, large aluminum cable end, set screw, safety wire, small plastic piece for transom (throw away), threaded cable end (tube with lock nut) and possibly bellows if not order one and replace it while doing this.
9. Take OUTER CORE and feed thru gimbal housing threaded cable hole, wet bellows small end with dish soap, feed cable end thru bellows then push bellows toward gimbal housing while feeding cable thru hole in transom assembly and feed it/route it the same location/path as original. Once this has been accomplished start to thread cable into gimbal housing. It is best to have a second person in the boat with their hands on the cable end. While tightening the cable into the Gimbal housing have the other person slowly help by twisting the cable (gently) while you tighten it. Tighten the cable end so the Hex is about two threads from bottoming out ~ 1mm or so. Once this is done now comes the cable assembly.
10. Now outside the boat in a clean area, take the large aluminum end, feed cable thru it. Once this is done install the set screw, tighten set screw until it makes contact with the cable end. Now install the safety wire thru the hole in the set screw and wrap around protrusion on large aluminum and. Start to twist the wire, while doing this it is very important that the aluminum part is free to rotate but with little or no forward or backward play with respect to the cable.
11. Twist the wire, cut to about 3/8 inches and bend in-between the set screw and protrusion. Done.
12. Now feed the inner cable assembly all the way thru the outer core and your friend should get it inside the boat. THERE SHOULD BE LITTLE RESISTANCE OTHER THAN THE BENDS IN THE OUTER CORE, if high resistance is felt be very care NOT to kink inner core at all and for that matter the outer core either!!!!
13. Once the cable is assembled to this point install the threaded cable end and lock nut into outer cable inside boat. This MUST be threaded in all the way it can go. Sometimes it is necessary to use pliers or something like that to make sure it is seated all the way. Once seated tighten lock nut to outer core.
14. Now take plastic cable end, also get the pinch tube with two pinch screws, start screws into tube but too deep so hole in center is clear, insert into plastic cable end, slide plastic cable end over inner core all the way so the inner core touches the plastic cable (you will see what I mean). Once this is done tighten pinch screws snugly. Now move cable to it approximate location and make sure it will fit into bracket without twisting. If you have to twist loosen pinch screws and relax the cable end to fit naturally. Once this is done tighten pinch screws securely. Tight is good, over tight is not.
15. Once this is done push cable end all the way in, and attempt to install the out drive back onto gimbal housing. This will be tough as you need three to four hands if not experienced. You must have the outdrive in forward gear, Small brass shift arm pointing straight ahead at 12:00 and the aluminum shift cable end sticking out so the shift shaft U shaped piece that aligns with the brass shift are in alignment. Not easy for the novice so be patient.
16. Once drive is installed and rams hooked up follow procedure from above.
17. The shift cable bellows, once done with adjustments and all, now raise drive up almost all the way, install bellows large end onto flange on transom assembly, tighten hose clamp. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL HOSE CLAMP EXACTLY THE SAME LOCATION AS IT WAS WHEN YOU TOOK IT OFF!!!.
The bellows may be a bit tough to get on all the way. MAKE sure it is seated all the way around the flange!!!!! Then tighten hose clamp.
18. Now extend the small end of the bellows so that it is extended fully without stretching it. Once you have it extended use a TY-Wrap and out it on the small bellows end and secure and trim excess off making sure any sharp end is pointing away from large bellows above.
Now you should be done!! Good luck…
Click to expand...

Your the man!!thanks so much.iv not takin anything apart yet.as I'm waiting on cable.probably around may 16.don't wanna get ahead of my self I'll forget how things go in a week.lol.really appreciate your help and all the typing u did.really some good guys on here.
 
After all the typing I did for you and all you can say is,,


"got er done".........................WTF

How about shring the experience and if what was typed helped and what issues if any did you run into...etc.etc... How much beer did you need to "get er done"????
 
He said " thanks fellas". Get off your high horse! Yea your knowledgeable, but the marine world doesn't revolve around you!
" look at me, look at me!" Get over yourself!
Just my opinion!

you gave him the instructions, links and how to do it. No need for him to say how he did it again, just to get your name mentioned
 
"""""He said " thanks fellas". Get off your high horse! Yea your knowledgeable, but the marine world doesn't revolve around you!
" look at me, look at me!" Get over yourself! Just my opinion!

you gave him the instructions, links and how to do it. No need for him to say how he did it again, just to get your name mentioned"""



Well you seemed to have gotten up on the wrong side of the bed..........

Not what I was asking about/for.

The replacement of a shift cable is not an easy task for a novice and I wanted to know IF my instructions (typed, not a video) were helpful.

I am not on a high horse, although maybe I should be.

Don't be jealous of my knowledge...embrace it!! you may need it some day..........

I could care less about my name being mentioned.

I am completely secure in my abilities and expertise in dealing with theses issues.

Maybe you should be also......................................
 
Recovering from a broken shoulder, it was the Meds talking!

You have helped me, actually talked to you on the phone. I got my issue resolved, but first first thought after getting off the phone phone was " man, he sure likes himself".
Now, back to the Meds!
 
Thanks....

Yes I am a bit arrogant........I admit it.........But I clearly, kind of say so in my Bio.................cant change an old dog..........I am who I am...Maybe it was my experience working in the boat repair business that helped make me this way..........haha............ya never know.
 
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